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Old 01-06-2017, 11:23 PM   #31
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How heavy is your trailer? It's a triple axle so there must be A LOT of weight in there. You might be going way over the van factory tow rating and I think the max is about 10,000 lbs with the right gearing and engine combo. Be careful if you are.

As far as the injectors are concerned, if you're doing 1, do them all.

The 6.0's had issues with casting sand being left in the block so add a coolant filter.

Gauges are a must. Synthetic oil is a must.

As for the rest of it, if you're going to be towing super heavy on a regular basis, I'd upgrade the gears before I'd add a tune. That'll do a lot more to ease towing stress than a tune will.

Then when towing, watch your temperatures. If they start creeping up into the danger zones, slow down. If you have to, pull over for 5-10 minutes but keep the motor running so the fluids circulate as they cool down.

You can also add a manual fan control switch and turn your fan on earlier than the computer will.

-Joey

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Old 01-07-2017, 12:00 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carringb View Post
No 3-valve in the vans. The 3 valve got 57 more hp and 37 extra ft lbs of torque.
Is it possible to swap the 3-valve heads onto a van V10?
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Old 01-07-2017, 07:54 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteelheadJones View Post
Is it possible to swap the 3-valve heads onto a van V10?
At a minimum, the firewall and doghouse would have to be trimmed and modified for the taller valve covers.
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Old 01-07-2017, 12:16 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeyNick View Post
How heavy is your trailer? It's a triple axle so there must be A LOT of weight in there. You might be going way over the van factory tow rating and I think the max is about 10,000 lbs with the right gearing and engine combo. Be careful if you are.

As far as the injectors are concerned, if you're doing 1, do them all.

The 6.0's had issues with casting sand being left in the block so add a coolant filter.

Gauges are a must. Synthetic oil is a must.

As for the rest of it, if you're going to be towing super heavy on a regular basis, I'd upgrade the gears before I'd add a tune. That'll do a lot more to ease towing stress than a tune will.

Then when towing, watch your temperatures. If they start creeping up into the danger zones, slow down. If you have to, pull over for 5-10 minutes but keep the motor running so the fluids circulate as they cool down.

You can also add a manual fan control switch and turn your fan on earlier than the computer will.

-Joey
The trailer is about 10,500 lbs. when towing - even if I had a truck I didn't have to worry about - I don't plan on running hard. I've made the trip from FL to CA twice now and I'm fine w/ 65 mph max. I think the gears will be a sure thing once I deal with the current engine issues.
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Old 09-20-2017, 04:07 PM   #35
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Thought I'd post an update; I didn't feel comfortable undoing the engine mount in my driveway to do the injectors so I had a shop do it and their cost for injectors was $300 ea, labor was $95 p/hr. If I got my own injectors their labor cost went up to $125 p/hr so I just did the one injector. It ran fine since until Labor Day weekend and I believe my EGR cooler burst and the engine hydrolocked. At this point I've got a lot to do and wondering what is the best way to do it. Shop labor costs are killers with most being around $100 p/hr and marked up parts prices to boot. I think I'm gonna do as much of the egine stuff JoeH recommended and go from there. I wish the engine wasn't so difficult to pull - I don't think I could come close to having what's necessary to pull the body and I hear coming out the front is actually more difficult. I would like to do this in my driveway. I'm not ASC certified but have swapped several gasser motors - I am capable.
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Old 09-20-2017, 04:35 PM   #36
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Dang, that's lame jacking up the labor that much if you supply your own parts? Most places (I think) just won't do the warranty work if they install an owner supplied part. So, it's a tradeoff. They get to earn a percentage on the part but will (hopefully) eat the labor if it fails.

Anyhoo, body off isn't feasible unless it's an empty cargo or passenger van. Gotta come out the front. Just more labor that's all.
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Old 09-20-2017, 04:59 PM   #37
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#6.0Life, because anyone can just buy a van.

I've always wanted one of these attachments in my garage of many things. I propose everyone go in on one and we'll just pass it around like a fruit cake at Christmas. Who ever needs it next just pays to ship it and then store it until the next person.
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Old 09-27-2017, 12:40 PM   #38
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Thanks Shuttle Pilot - that, although a lot to remove, doesn't look too bad. I'm not going to remove the engine - hopefully. Will start ordering parts Nov 1st, will report in just before that with my final parts list.
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Old 01-15-2019, 06:14 PM   #39
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Just an update. I thought for sure my engine was toast but it turns out it was a fan clutch that caused the over heating but everything is good and my can is back on the road and ready for my next upgrade - suspension for towing and interior insulation, floor and walls.
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