Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 05-06-2022, 12:18 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 25
Battery/short/separator issues.

I have an 05 RB50 with the 6.0. I just put in 2 new optima batteries last fall for the the motor. I have never had any electrical issues however the van sat for a while this this cold winter and I had to charge the batteries to get it to start. Since then the van draws down the batteries over a 4 day period to the point that I have to charge them again. The van is equipped with a an older model intel power 9100 converter/charger, battery separator with a 200 amp 4 D battery. So I’m thinking maybe a short somewhere? The house battery was so low that (from what I understand) I had to jump it to get it to a high enough level to charge it through shore power. I am in the middle of that process now. But now I am hearing a clicking noise at the battery separator when I turn on the key to the van. Is a short causing all this fuss? Is it the separator that needs to be replaced? Could it be the older converter/charger? Is it the fact that the house battery was so low and needs recharging/replaced? Or is it a combination of 1 or all and where would someone that knows way more than me start? Any advice is greatly appreciated. TIA.

kori5674 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2022, 11:39 AM   #2
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Santa Cruz CA
Posts: 10
Do the house batteries discharge too?

If you have an older diode based isolator, it may be worth checking for forward and reverse bias (or just change it out to the Blue Sea System ML-ACR which is a better setup). Optimas have a higher standing voltage than many other batteries, so I'd be concerned about leakage through with a diode based isolated if the house system is lead acid anyway.

I'd start by separating the starting batteries from the house system anyway (divide and conquer). You will likely want to perform a parasitic draw test, which amounts to putting a decent amp meter in series with your ground wire and removing various fuses to see where the offender is. There are lots of Youtube videos on this. Keep in mind there is likely more than one ground with a dual battery setup. My 7.3 has one on the starter in addition to the chassis. One can be disconnected entirely for testing.

There is a great post by Scalf77 on (house) wiring setups here -- > https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...ches-7991.html

Good luck finding the gremlin!
ss4010 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2022, 01:36 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
marret's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: FL and VA
Posts: 1,948
Garage
Sounds like maybe the separator is connecting all the time and possibly a bad house battery is draining the start batteries.

Agree with separating the two banks to see if that changes the draining of the starting batteries and to check for parasitic draw. A Blue Sea ML-ACR makes sense too.

You might start with checking to see if the house battery is the cause of the parasitic draw.

Might get better responses in the electrical forum.
__________________
Chris
2008 GMC 3500 Quigley Weldtec 4x4 Savana SMB
marret is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2022, 04:34 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Scalf77's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 2,490
A couple of questions to the OP,

How old our your house batteries?
Do you plug in often?
What do you do when leaving the van unattended for a length of time?
What if any modifications out side of the generic sportsmobile have been made?
What state is the radio switch in?

So a couple of things, I take it now you have the 9100 charging the house batteries. If it hasn't let it go through a complete charge cycle. If it has a charge wizard installed (most likely) it will go to 14.4 volts at some point it will come down to 13.6 volts and hang out there for about a day eventually going to 13.2 volts. After that every 21 hours you will see it go to 14.4 volts for 15 mins.

If the house battery was to low then the start assist feature of the Surepower 1315 would not work if the House battery was below 10 volts, or if the starting battery is not lower than the house battery.

greg

If you heard the surepower clicking when you turned the key to start after putting the house battery on shore power, this could explain the clicking noise as you haven't heard it in a while

So after that I would disconnect the ground from the Surepower. This should isolate the two battery systems. If after isolating them you need to see if the surepower has been shorted together. Most common failure of relays or solenoids is they get stuck on. You could pull it out and ohm it out, but you can also leave in and monitor the voltage on each side. If you are running the van and house battery has gone up to somewhat mimics the starting side, it is shorted (assuming the ground has been removed. If you are charging the house battery and you see the starting side go up same thing.

It is possible that you will see a difference in voltage because of voltage drop, that could also be worse because of contact resistance on the internal terminals.

Anyhow, go run some test and report back and we'll see if we can help.

-greg
Scalf77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
battery, converter charger, low voltage, shore power

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Sportsmobile SIP or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:49 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.