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Old 07-06-2021, 11:22 AM   #61
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Got the van back with the new top - great to have standing room inside. The previous top install cut the interior a little further back than needed for the Fiberine top but we'll deal with that when it comes time to trim it out.

Also snagged some dinette seats to work with the flares. They pull out and lay flush, with a drawer built in underneath. Not 100% on what kind of RV they came out of but they're some of the nicer ones we've seen so we just grabbed them when we saw them on CL.
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Old 07-06-2021, 06:19 PM   #62
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B. rock time to update your sig for that sweet new top
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Old 07-08-2021, 11:45 AM   #63
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Ha touche. Done.

In preparation for the 4x4 conversion, interior build out, and head gasket, we've been putting in some hours getting the garage finished so we can organize it and actually have work space, plus power + lights. Funny how a 100A panel can start to run thin when you keep adding circuits...
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Old 11-15-2021, 03:56 PM   #64
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Update: sort of. I'm at a bit of a stalemate with how to pull the engine. In so much that I can't pull the van nose first into the garage due to a turning conflict with a rock wall, a retaining wall, and the man door entrance (long story, door was supposed to be elsewhere, but architect and geo engineer said otherwise). And the idea of rolling an ~1100lb engine up to the back work area isn't enticing, although I haven't yet figured out a way around it. At least not without redoing the retaining wall with shotcrete.

I've landed on pulling in the engine vs doing it in situ so I can also replace the cracked bellhousing adapter (either with SAE or ATS one piece), and add some reinforcement to the crossmember (as recommended by MG). It'll also make reinstalling the head correctly FAR easier.

Also, in hindsight, I do wonder a bit if the leak was there when I bought it. The fan wiring was already ripped, the fan shroud was gone, and it had some misc coolant leaks, including popping a hose off of the bottom of the rad one day which I just chalked up to an old/loose clamp. It was also full of the green coolant, meaning someone refilled it after it left Destroked.

It's a little wild to me what all can happen in ~9k miles (although 5 years) from the conversion happening to it landing in my driveway, but the van has kind of a wild story behind it anyway.
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Old 11-15-2021, 05:40 PM   #65
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Do you have the clearance to drop the oil pan enough to get to the oil pick up bolts? With the bellhousing off and the pan/pick up off, the bottom of the engine is flat and would probably slide out the front pretty easily.

I made an engine cart with scrap tube laying around the shop. It rolled fine, easy to manage by myself. If you've got an incline I'd suggest having help around but with a good set of casters, it shouldn't be difficult to roll the engine where you need it.
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Old 11-16-2021, 09:31 AM   #66
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Since they mounted the engine pretty high in there and it's got an 8" lift, the pan should come off without much fuss, so I'm assuming the pick up would be accessible as well. Good idea. Hopefully I don't have to make a cradle and can wiggle the hoist far enough back to lift it fairly evenly, but TBD.

I'd prefer to find a rollable engine stand off the shelf with decent casters, but making a cart is the most likely answer. The first 20' of the garage is sloped towards the front although not a ton. Once it gets onto either the side or back that's level it'll be golden.

I'm realizing I will also need to roll the van 'shell' back and forth a bit during this. Might have to use the WJ as a pusher. Even with some friends I'm not sure we could roll the remaining ~7k lbs back uphill when it's time to reinstall.
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Old 11-25-2021, 04:15 PM   #67
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b. rock, I'm in Lakewood, If I'm in town when you do the "pull" I'd be glad to assist in any way I can.
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