06 E-350 6.7 Cummins + Allison - Page 6

carringb · 06-14-2021, 09:05 PM

Econoline 6.0 intercooler was all-metal. The trucks got the plastic ones.

Example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/17471304768...BoC-1IQAvD_BwE

Keep in mind the E-series cooling stack is why they had to use the 235 hp tune in the E-series. HP = heat.

mgmetalworks · 06-14-2021, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carringb

Keep in mind the E-series cooling stack is why they had to use the 235 hp tune in the E-series. HP = heat.

Then the Ford diesels shouldn't have had any problems...

b. rock · 06-15-2021, 08:13 AM

Ha yeah I know, that's why I don't have a van with the 7.3 or 6.0. I also can't imagine working on those in the van body, the inline motor provides a bit more access.

However, there's an ~8 page thread on here about a guy putting down 600hp with the 6.0 and no report of cooling issues. I have no need for that kind of power (although in reality it's probably close to 400-450 at the crank?) but I do want to be able to use it off road and not have to be wringing my hands the whole time worrying about heat, staring at my gauges rather than the scenery.

I spent some time yesterday with it and am fairly certain the electric fan clutch is toast. A mechanical clutch + adapter is close to the same price as an OEM fan clutch so I'll be going that route. No, it won't kick in for a/c at idle but that's fine.

I also saw some tiny bubbles moving around the coolant tank which was quite alarming. I did just tighten up a leak from a clamp I replaced so I'm hoping that's all it is. Coolant wasn't being pushed out and this morning after it cooled off the level was back to normal and there was no pressure in the tank. It passed one of those blue liquid tests earlier this spring so I'd be surprised if there was a change since then.

b. rock · 06-16-2021, 08:54 AM

Well, part of the puzzle solved at least. Re-did the coolant combustion gas contamination test yesterday for my own sanity regarding the HG, and noticed that when the thermostat opened, the bottom of the rad never got hot.

I had just installed this tstat back in Feb. It's the $$ OEM 190* stat and this was as far open as it would go in boiling water. Granted, that's only about 200* where I live but still - it explains why we could give it some rpms and force a little coolant through the rad and see the temps drop instead of climb.

b. rock · 06-20-2021, 12:08 PM

Well, F. I was refilling the system after changing the t-stat and noticed that just idling, the thermostat didn't seem to open all the way. Drove it up and down the hill a couple times to make sure it was fully open and the system was purged. Decided since I saw bubbles in the coolant tank last week I'd re-do the combustion gas in the coolant test. Immediate fail. Poured it out and tried again after a minute. Same result. So, looks like we did pop the HG on Engineer Pass after all and since I did the first test just at idle - the t-stat wasn't really open after all.

I don't know if I'll be pulling the body off, pulling the front off, or snaking it out through the dog house, but since we have a garage to finish, a Jeep to to get back on the road, and a summer to enjoy -the van just got bumped down the priority list until I have time to figure out WTF to do. If I do the body lift method it'll give me an excuse to put a lift in the garage I suppose. I'm sure I'll do a bunch of other 'while I'm in there' fixes too.

The setup only has ~9k miles on it so I'm leaning towards fixing it and stuffing it back in. Part of me thinks I should sell off the low mileage engine and put in a CR 5.9 from an 06 or 07 so it'd technically be emissions compliant, and the wiring harness should be damn similar to what's already in there.

It's a good thing I got this van cheap, because it's certainly eating up funds a few grand at a time. And this weekend is also causing the consumption of some dark smoky liquids.

arctictraveller · 06-20-2021, 07:43 PM

Well, that really sucks. You could always sell me the whole thing and move on.

b. rock · 06-21-2021, 09:44 AM

It goes in today for the high top at Timberline - that was scheduled months ago so no stopping it now. The thought of cutting my losses and moving on is in the back of my mind, but I really haven't put a price on it.

All in all the process of replacing the HG isn't awful. Doable in a weekend. However, sorting out access - that's a different issue. If I can find a way to pull up/suspend the head studs just enough clear the block but not fall back down into any holes, I can probably do it in place and slide it out of the dog house.

Lilnuts2 · 06-21-2021, 03:21 PM

b. rock, forgive my lack of knowledge but what is "HG"?
And what new top are you going with?

carringb · 06-21-2021, 09:32 PM

Since you don't know the history, I'd recommend pulling it. What if the head is cracked? You'd only find out if the new head gasket doesn't fix it. Maybe it froze before it got stuffed in the van?

b. rock · 06-22-2021, 02:18 PM

Yeah, I plan on getting the head checked. A lot can happen in 9k miles if it's been neglected. I had issues with coolant hoses leaking, including blowing one off of a fitting, right when we got it. Makes me wonder if it wasn't already done before I got it? It only shows minor symptoms, and only when >200*F. It's actually pretty surprising to me how driveable it is while it's leaking.

Pulling the engine would also allow for reinforcing of the crossmember and swapping the bellhousing on the trans. Also prime time to do the nose swap and larger rad/intercooler while I'm in there. AKA, a pretty slippery slope of a lot of other work. TBD if I want to open that can of worms or just get it knocked out and back on the road.

Also, Fiberine 24" bubble top, and HG = head gasket.