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Old 04-28-2017, 12:26 PM   #11
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Sorry I just realized how far you are from your home base. But, to be broken down in the desert southwest means you have a lot of good diesel related resources close by. Yes, JoeH has covered very well the usual suspects and solutions. I would just add that Ford Premium Gold Coolant turns to gell when mixed with pretty much anything, other than distilled water. There is probably a lot of situations where Ford Gold Coolant gets blamed because someone topped off the coolant with a different type coolant and they reacted. Or doesn't flush out all of the previous mystery coolant when changing. I run Ford Gold still but with an awareness of it's short comings. Not sure if this could be a possibility in your case.

It's still odd to me how a low millage/original oil cooler would rupture mixing the two. The usual cascade of events are, oil cooler coolant paths plug up restricting flow to the EGR, EGR overheats causing the EGR cooler to rupture, sending coolant into the combustion chambers, usually noticed by steam in the exhaust or what looks like carbonation in the coolant reservoir. Before all this happens, and if you have a way to monitor, engine oil temperature will start to skyrocket. Once that motor is apart it will tell it's story as to what happened.

And I also support the use of coolant filters.

-Eric

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Old 04-28-2017, 12:45 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Cupajoe View Post
Thanks JoeH, I didn’t notice any exhaust steam-smoke, just a slight oil burn smell and immediately pulled over and saw the oil mess overflow from the water res. We sat for 2 hours talking to AAA and insurance company to set up a tow. I checked the oil and it was low, so added a quart and decided to start it up and move 2 or 3 miles closer to the intersection. The engine seemed to run good and I stopped before the temp gauge went up. I re-checked the oil and it was clear, but the oil-water mess was overflowing.
The reason oil is in the coolant expansion bottle is because the oil is under greater pressure than engine coolant. Much greater. Even 3000+ psi not to mention what the injectors are doing (10x that). But coolant can end up in the crankcase too. When that happens you most certainly have a cracked head.

edit to add: The issues at such a low mileage are not that surprising for a diesel that sits or has been babied. I'm not saying that's the case here but the 6.0 likes it HOT and driven hard. Like really hard. You need to do that to burn out the contaminants as well as keep the turbo vanes open.
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Old 04-28-2017, 12:53 PM   #13
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I was told to "drive it like I stole it" when i got my 6.0l truck.
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Old 04-28-2017, 01:39 PM   #14
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Just for clarity, here is an install video of the BulletProofDiesel OEM remote oil cooler mount. This is the type I mentioned I saw on a pickup truck and wasn't impressed with all the hoses rubbing. Just seemed like a lot could fail over time compared to the front mount cooler or the stock location. And I don't think there is room for it in a van anyway. In the video Ron dose a pretty clean job of routing the hoses, on the truck I saw the hoses were kind of everywhere.

https://youtu.be/YuXgiaCrA1s

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Old 04-28-2017, 02:26 PM   #15
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Thanks! I just completed a warn 16.5 install in the bumper $$$ . I just can't wrap my head around deleting it though .....
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Old 04-28-2017, 02:46 PM   #16
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Keep us posted on what you find out. You might want to flat bed your rig closer to home base. This could be a repair that takes awhile. Up to 30 hours labor for engine removal and headstuds. There's a whole litany of items to address once it all goes down. Some needed, some just preventative maintenance, and some that might have already been included since yours is presumably a late production run. There's a few threads on this forum on the dirty details as well as good write-ups on the diesel forums.

edit to add: I posted in this thread along the same lines. http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...tml#post197493

Here's what I would consider the full meal deal on a rebuilt (or bulletproofed) 6.0 powerstroke.

-ARP head studs. That means the motor has to come out.
-Heads. New or resurfaced and were they o-ringed?
-HPOP. 2004.5+ not known for failure but ask anyway
-upgraded one-piece snap to connect HPOP fitting
-Dummy plugs (upgraded parts by Ford for injector health)
-Standpipes (upgraded parts by Ford for injector health)
-EGR cooler with the round tubes or BPD cooler or an EGR delete.
-injectors. Original or remans. 100k is when they start to go.
-New oil cooler. OEM and not a Dorman. Or, the outrageously expensive BPD external oil cooler
-water pump. Go BPD or Dieselsite for the metal impeller
-turbo reconditioned.
-upgraded turbo oil fill and drain pipes
-FICM rebuilt
-upgraded alternator and fresh batteries
-coolant flush and Ford Gold replaced with a CAT EC-1 rated ELC coolant
-new charge air cooler (CAC) boots
-coolant filter

These are all items I would research and be prepared to discuss with your mechanic as to whether to replace or not. Lots to learn.
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Old 04-28-2017, 08:04 PM   #17
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As I understand it, blown head gaskets and beefing up with ARP's aren't usually needed on a E series as opposed to the F series (usually). The E series 6.0 is detuned by 85hp as I recall. Or more correctly is tuned what International originally spec'd the engine for.
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Old 04-29-2017, 12:07 AM   #18
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As I understand it, blown head gaskets and beefing up with ARP's aren't usually needed on a E series as opposed to the F series (usually). The E series 6.0 is detuned by 85hp as I recall. Or more correctly is tuned what International originally spec'd the engine for.
You're right, the head's should be fine. But EGR blockage (if that's the case here) can cause the heads to lift. And yes, the trucks are much more prone to HG failure because of the increase in HP. The two-piece head and torque to yield bolts (TTY) are not up to snuff. There's only 10 bolts per head. For the added security studs are worth it if you have the engine our for any reason. Studs simply provide a better clamp load and a much longer fatigue life than TTY bolts. The vans don't typically have HG issues but they also suffer from heat management and the same EGR related issues. Small problems quickly escalate.

As designed the engine had 235HP and met the new 2003 emissions standards the 7.3 couldn't But GM and Dodge had upped their game with the Duramax and Cummins and Ford chipped the engine to 325HP. They then blamed the HG failures and warranty repairs on International.
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Old 04-29-2017, 10:30 AM   #19
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I believe Ford makes an update oil cooler for the 6.0 that addes two extra rows of passages. This may be standard issue now when replacing with a Motorcraft part, but something to ask about.
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Old 04-29-2017, 11:44 AM   #20
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Thanks JoeH, I'll pass along your laundry list and other info everyone has commented on for good talking points with the shop and will post the outcome to all of this.
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