Aluminess Swing Arm Bearing Replacement

[Charliesmom]

I finally got around to replacing the bearings on my Aluminess swing arms.
I removed the spare tire from the driver’s side and the box from the passenger side. Once I realized that the caps didn’t screw off (thanks @barrel47), I used a rubber mallet and a screwdriver to pop it off. Neither side had a set screw. Each swing arm has a 1 1/8” nut and a washer that need to be removed. Theoretically, the swing arm should be able to be lifted up, off the spindle. However it required some muscle and a few “wacks” from my trusty mallet. The top bearings could easily be taken off the spindle. The lower bearings, not so much. I used a pair of tin snips to cut the dust covers and “wind” them off below the lower bearings. I also cut the cages and removed the bearings off the race. After some penetrol and lithium grease, I was able to turn each race using a pipe wrench and finally slid them off the shaft. I spent the next 30-45 minutes cleaning each of the spindles with steel wool and WD-40. The reassembly is pretty straightforward. You turn the swing arm upside down, clean the inside of the tube and wire brush the bottom to remove any burrs. Install the lower bearing with the taper going toward the top. Finally install the dust cover flush with the bottom, taping with rubber mallet. Spin the swing arm over and insert it over the spindle carefully, push it straight down until the arm slides into place. Next, insert the top bearing with the taper going down. Replace the washer and nut on the spindle and torque the nut to 40# to set the bearings. Then back off completely and re-torque to 25#. Replace dust cap and set screws. I put a little petroleum jelly on the washer in the cap. => Repeat on the other side.

Not realizing what had happened to my driver’s side spare tire swing arm initially, I now speculate that when I last had my tires rotated, the “technician” bounced the tire onto the swing arm and broke the bottom edge of the race of the lower bearing (see pictures), leading to the cap being ajar and the broken bearing. The nut on the top of the splindle and its washer had some rust but fortunately, both spindles looked great after cleaning.

[Fitz]

Good job.

I just made the same repair on my 2016 swing arms, we must have been working on them at about the same time. I had to use an air chisel to remove the upper bearing on the passenger side (it was the worst of the two) and a cut off wheel to remove both lower bearings. I broke two pullers in the process.

Aluminess, not one of your best designs, with the “pain” compounded by the fact that I/we had to pay for the parts to make the repair vs. it being a warranty item.

I added a grease zerk on each arm and filled the cavity with grease, hopefully that and the o-ring on the new caps solves the problem for good. I’m traveling now, will do a write-up with additional pictures when I get the time.

[Charliesmom]

Once I took the bearings apart on the spindle, I was able to turn them using a pipe wrench and get them off. My next option was a grinder with a cut off wheel.
This is likely the reason that Aluminess is now using rear door hinges to support their accessories and not swing arms.

[Charliesmom]

During the conversation I had with Aluminess re: how much time it would take to replace the bearings, they told me that it could take anywhere from 2-6 hours depending on the difficulty if I had them do the job in Santee, CA. Hence, my use of the term “tricky.” I’m going to maintain them now, every 6 months with some lithium grease down the cylinder. Another thing to add to the maintenance list.

[Fitz]

At least Aluminess spoke with you. I called and asked to talk through the repair process. I was told a tech would call me back, that call never came.