Battery Separator Switch

charlie56 · 12-11-2009, 09:49 PM

I have experienced two bad starter batteries over the last two months. The replacement for both of them has totaled just over $1,000, fortunately it was fully covered by warranty. This got me thinking that something (other than the batteries) wasn’t working as planned. During both dead battery conditions, the house battery never came to the aid of the starter bank. The Battery Sure Power separator that is provided has a Auxiliary Start Activation circuit wired in by SMB. The way it is supposed to work (on my van) is when the starter bank needs an additional boost from the house bank, the separator will join the two banks together during the start operation. The caveat is that the starter battery must have 3 volts to close the circuit. With only one bad battery in the diesel starter bank I should have had plenty of voltage to trip the auxiliary system, but during both dead battery episodes, the house bank never kicked in.

This made me think that the system (even though it wasn’t working) is probably not what I really wanted anyway. For if the house battery kicked in automatically as designed, there would be little indication that I had a problem with the starter bank. In reading the SurePower documentation, there is a option to add a momentary contact switch to the system to force the banks together. After conversing with Peter at SMBW I learned that they now install this manual switch in the current builds. I remember reading a couple of posts that mentioned a dash switch but never put 2 and 2 together until my problem occurred.

I have now installed a dash switch to manually tie the two banks together. For those with the same type of setup as mine you might consider installing the manual boost switch.

The write up on the installation is on the Wiki Site under Projects.

http://wiki.sportsmobileforum.com/in...ments#Projects

billwilson · 12-12-2009, 07:56 AM

I just has a sure power installed with the momentary switch also
I like the back up plan too

bw

Ed in Montana · 12-12-2009, 03:24 PM

Thanks Charlie. I am definitely going to go that route as well, having replaced both starting batteries one week after the warranty ran out.

How did Bill Burke's Anza Borrego class work out?

**BroncoHauler** · 12-12-2009, 03:53 PM

I still like the Blue Sea automatic charging relay, which also has manual control.

http://bluesea.com/category/2/productline/388

Herb

billwilson · 12-12-2009, 03:59 PM

i agree much sexier
and has the cool remote switch

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bronco_hauler

I still like the Blue Sea automatic charging relay, which also has manual control.

http://bluesea.com/category/2/productline/388

Herb

charlie56 · 12-12-2009, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ed in Montana

How did Bill Burke's Anza Borrego class work out?

4-weeks before the class was scheduled to start they sent out a notice that some government agency asked him to teach a special class for them. They were apologetic but we were bumped.

Not too happy about that as we had planned this thing for 6-months and it effectively burned vacation time for Dina and I. (Hope those government boys are happy.) So we went down to Anza anyway to salvage the time. I took the SMB over the Diablo Drop-off (while three Jeepers watched) which was exciting to say the least. Managed it okay but it would have been better to have an instructor there to tell me everything I did right and wrong.

Not my video but gives you an idea.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fQNhWyVj7I

They are rescheduling the class for next March but I just declined. I think we would rather meet up with them in Utah rather than Anza anyway.

**daveb** · 12-15-2009, 12:33 AM

Hey Charlie, The reason it didn't connect is because one side was below 12.8. I had a switch wired in as well, but my bus wire going from the separator to the starting batteries is fairly light at least I think so. If I'm wrong sombody correct me. I sure wouldn't want to do much cranking on the engine if both starting batteries were stone cold dead. Way too much amperage IMO. Not sure, but I would think a minimum of #2 copper should be used and 1/0 would be more in line. I don't know what the separator itself is rated for other than it says 200A. I think the word "assist" is correct where someone with two dead batteries would be requiring a "jump" mode. Not that it won't work just I'd be leery about trying to crank a diesel for any length of time. I'll have to take a closer look at the wire SMB used. I thought it was #4 copper???

charlie56 · 12-15-2009, 01:09 AM

Take a look at the last page of my writeup on the Wiki Site. At the bottom of the page is the recommended wire size between the batteries and the separator. Assuming the distance is less than 10' (for the diesels) for the starter bank and the house bank, the wire size should be #4 when using the auxiliary start function. (Being able to push that button and hear the solenoid actually kick in gives me a little more security now.)