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Old 10-28-2021, 04:24 PM   #1
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Collection of anti rattle/ squeak/ creak tricks?

Hey guys

the more I drive washboards and friends the more places I find where my van starts to rattle/ squeak.

Right now I have two main topics:
1. My passenger side barn doors are moving a fair bit when offroad and it looks like the lock can't really hold it in place. Means the doors move relative to each other as well as relative to the van body which creates squeaking noises.

My current idea is to check whether or not I can readjust the door lock fit, I will replace the old weatherstrips/ sealings as well as use some PTFE/ teflon tape on the paint. I hope this helps to eliminate it.


2. Since I put the lift kit in and 35's on I get creaking noises from the front suspension, similar to what you know from leaf springs. This only happens when I turn it very slowly. Checking it in my driveway it somehow seems to happen in the following way:
I turn the steering wheel slowly, the steering rods start moving, but the tire still stands still. At a certain point the tire follows the movement by "releasing the tension" and more or less jumps to the point where the rods want to have it. So it's a kind of stick/slip between the tire and the surface. At the time of the "jump" the noise occurs.

While driving faster than walking speed the tire seems to roll enough to not create this friction and same goes for turning the wheels on gravels while standing.
No Idea how to solve this right now...

What I'm looking for are 2 things:
a) Does anyone have ideas how to solve my 2 problems?
b) Did you have any other noises and can provide you solution? This will surely help a lot of other people with their noises.
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Old 10-28-2021, 05:01 PM   #2
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I have the same issue on the 60/40 barn doors....the 40 door upper latch seems to pop loose with enough body flex.


I attempted to move the upper latch catch on the body outboard recently but it didn't move much when the torx screws were loosened.
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Old 10-28-2021, 05:52 PM   #3
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1) Move the door strikes, using a torx bit. Do the 40 door first. Then the 60 door. When checking it, make sure the latch clicks twice. If it only clicks once when you close it, move the strike out. If it clicks twice and and doesn’t close securely, move the strike in.

2) try to watch the knuckles as somebody else moves the steering side to side. If the knuckles are binding then moving, you need need ball joints. If they move smoothly, and only the wheel gets hung up, then your unit bearings are toast.
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Old 10-28-2021, 06:35 PM   #4
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Collection of anti rattle/ squeak/ creak tricks?

Quote:
Originally Posted by carringb View Post
1) Move the door strikes, using a torx bit. Do the 40 door first. Then the 60 door. When checking it, make sure the latch clicks twice. If it only clicks once when you close it, move the strike out. If it clicks twice and and doesnít close securely, move the strike in.

2) try to watch the knuckles as somebody else moves the steering side to side. If the knuckles are binding then moving, you need need ball joints. If they move smoothly, and only the wheel gets hung up, then your unit bearings are toast.

Brian Iíve been meeting to do this for a long time. How do you adjust the 60 door? Is it on the chassis or the 10 mm ones on the door itself?

My 60 door drags pretty bad on the strike at the bottom.
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Old 10-28-2021, 07:27 PM   #5
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To adjust the 60 door, you move the strike at the midline edge of the 40 door. For snugness adjustment.

Sometime either or both doors need alignment. This is done almost the same way, but by loosening the 3 torx bolts at both hinges, persuading one or both slightly with a mallet until it closes flush with the body, then snugging those bolts right again.

I don’t think the 60-door has a lower strike? Only the center strike against the 40 door. Earlier years has these sliding wedges that need periodic lithium grease to slide freely. Without the grease the stick instead of slide.
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Old 10-29-2021, 11:54 AM   #6
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Thanks for the input so far.

For the doors:
I found that my bottom 40 door doesn't lock at all! So I also got to check the function of the bottom lock.
For my strikes I'm planning to make small slots out of the current whole. This way I might get some mm movement. With the new seals and the teflon tape I can imagine it helps.

Still leaves the question whether or not I got to do something with my 60 door...just has the center strike... Perhaps I'm adding a kind of knee lever or any other sort of "tensioner" at the top on the inside... let's see. That's one of my "winter projects" :-D

For the front suspension:
Hub bearing is possible... never changed them and no idea what the preowner did. But at 270k miles it would make sense although I don't hear any noises... When installing the lift kit some months back I already replaced all ball joints with new MOOG parts so for now I would assume they're ok. But will check and keep you posted.
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Old 10-29-2021, 12:00 PM   #7
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BTW, just to add more noises I already eliminated...

I replaced the plastic trims on the side and rear doors with carpet lined pegboard panels. When doing so I added some insulation. Not that I need it for thermal reasons, but it's incredible how much lower the sound is when closing the door. and by removing some plastic you also eliminate some squeaking noises.

With that experience I also removed the head liners and all other plastic trims (beside the driver/ passenger door) and stuffed some insulation in: the whole drive on the highway got so much quieter...

Next up during winter will be replacing the plastic trims on the driver/ passenger door as well as thinking about an alternative solution for the plastic console in the front. Everything rattles on washboards and I hate it :-D
So perhaps I'm making a small "cabinet" or box between the seats lined with carpet or so.
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Old 11-04-2021, 12:18 PM   #8
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Regarding the doors. I was able to fix mine by just keeping the latch mechanism well lubed. I used to hear them pop loose on a big bump, but, knock on wood, they have not given me a problem for a while. You also need to make sure the 40 door is firmly closed before closing the 60.
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Old 11-04-2021, 01:13 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_382 View Post
Regarding the doors. I was able to fix mine by just keeping the latch mechanism well lubed. I used to hear them pop loose on a big bump, but, knock on wood, they have not given me a problem for a while. You also need to make sure the 40 door is firmly closed before closing the 60.

Turns out my 60 door is completely cracked all round the hinge. I either need a new one or there is some reinforcement fix out there.
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Old 11-04-2021, 01:13 PM   #10
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Regarding the doors, I remember first visit to a La Paz baja auto parts store, and behind the counter were a number of rows of smaller (3"X5") cardboard boxes...
I asked what they were.....Door hinge pins!
They have experience with washboard....
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