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Old 12-13-2018, 07:30 PM   #1
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DC Starcool Only, 110VAC Delete

The starcool system was a bit of a mystery to me, but after significant digging around on the forum here, what I now understand is that has two different systems running separate compressors. 110VAC from either shorepower or generator and off of 12V while driving.

I’m rebuilding my van and on a quest to simplify its systems as much as possible. I’m dropping the generator and don’t typically have access to shore power, especially anything over a 15amp house 110VAC receptacle. So - I'm planning to delete the 110VAC side of the Starcool system. This means the only time I’ll be using the rear air is while running the vehicle, which fits our needs just fine. If we stop for some sleep at a rest stop or similar and we need A/C, I’ll just high idle vehicle and let it run to keep the A/C on.



What to Modify / Remove:
1. Remove auxiliary 110V compressor
2. Remove auxiliary condenser
3. Remove solenoid valve after factory condenser on way to factory evaporator (or leave this in place, will it cause any problems or will it just remain open and be fine in the system)
4. New OEM (without T) line from factory compressor to factory condenser with no fitting for line from aux condenser
5. New line from Starcool evaporator directly back to factory compressor (where can I get this?)
6. Delete rear thermostat
7. Move blower switch to in-dash as per this thread: http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...cool-2932.html

From this:


To this:


Any input on this would be appreciated. Does this look technically sound?

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Old 12-13-2018, 07:34 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allenl View Post
... If we stop for some sleep at a rest stop or similar and we need A/C, I’ll just high idle vehicle and let it run to keep the A/C on...

No campgrounds in your future?




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Old 12-13-2018, 07:36 PM   #3
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Starcool Reference Threads

Starcool Threads that I found helpful:

• http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...ease-6418.html
• http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...val-21180.html
• replacement fan parts: http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...-fan-8659.html and more replacement fan information: http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...ion-10309.html
• 110v solenoid located under the hood: http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...tml#post233772
• Aux A/C switch install for pre-2000 SMBs: http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...dash-8284.html
• Another modification for clean front cluster switch: http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...cool-2932.html
• http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...s-19760-3.html
• http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...on-7835-2.html
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Old 12-13-2018, 07:39 PM   #4
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No campgrounds in your future?




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We haven't stayed at one during our travels the last couple of years. Typically we use the rig for long road miles and boondocking.
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Old 12-13-2018, 09:13 PM   #5
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With the exception of saving a bit of weight by removing the 110v parts, why not just leave it as is? When you start messing around with older systems like that you are inviting trouble. I’d leave it as-is. Better for resale value too.

That said, you could probably sell any take-off parts here in the forum pretty easily.
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Old 12-14-2018, 08:38 AM   #6
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I have a 2000 Ford E350 SMB. It has a 12V only Starcool(Danhard) system in it. It is pretty much identical to your second diagram. My van came from SMB this way, and never had the 110V part of the Starcool system.

I do not claim to be an expert on the Starcool/Danhard system, but as stated above what you are trying to do is exactly how my system is setup.

If you have any technical questions, it might be worth a call to the technical support at Danhard

They helped me understand my system because most on this forum have your original system, that runs on 110V and 12V, but not the 12V only option as I have. They also have a bunch of parts that can be purchased through them(orings/orifice tubes/etc..)
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Old 12-14-2018, 10:38 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Ben10281 View Post
I have a 2000 Ford E350 SMB. It has a 12V only Starcool(Danhard) system in it. It is pretty much identical to your second diagram. My van came from SMB this way, and never had the 110V part of the Starcool system.

I do not claim to be an expert on the Starcool/Danhard system, but as stated above what you are trying to do is exactly how my system is setup.

If you have any technical questions, it might be worth a call to the technical support at Danhard

They helped me understand my system because most on this forum have your original system, that runs on 110V and 12V, but not the 12V only option as I have. They also have a bunch of parts that can be purchased through them(orings/orifice tubes/etc..)

Ok thanks for the input.
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Old 12-14-2018, 10:42 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianW View Post
With the exception of saving a bit of weight by removing the 110v parts, why not just leave it as is? When you start messing around with older systems like that you are inviting trouble. I’d leave it as-is. Better for resale value too.

That said, you could probably sell any take-off parts here in the forum pretty easily.
I'm removing the entire VAC side of the van's electrical system. Also my OCD won't allow me to let it sit there doing nothing. I'm trying to simplify things as the van is rebuilt.
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Old 12-20-2018, 02:26 PM   #9
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Running on high idle while parked - I hope you keep your CO detector in good condition.
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