Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 12-18-2008, 09:21 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
deminimis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Baja Whenever Possible
Posts: 1,012
Ford Steering Box Adjustment

First off, the chances you need to adjust your steering box are probably pretty slim. These are set up by Ford and most likely not a problem with your rig. However, If you feel you must, then I'd suggest you do it right or pay dearly for a new, expensive and difficult to install steering box. Not scared off? Then here we go: To do it right with our vans, here's what you'll need: A torque wrench that reads in inch pounds (0 to whatever in 5 pound increments - you're only working up to 17 inch pounds at most), a 3/8 rachet with several extensions (18" worth or so), 3/8 swivel, a deep 5/8 socket, a 3/16 allen socket, 45 torx socket, a 5/8 open end wrench is optional and a pickle fork or better, a tie rod puller.

If you determine your steering box is out of spec, I'd strongly suggest you first mark the grub screw with a speck of paint to aid in determining its relative location/how much you've turned it later (its really called a meshload screw, but I'm calling it a grub screw because, well, I can). On mine, I can loosen the lock nut without it turning the grub screw. If that's the case with your rig, then you won't need the open end wrench. I'd also recommend you do this when you need to change your short drag link as you may damage the drag link boot when removing it from the pitman arm if you use a pickle fork. If using a better puller, then its not an issue. If you have to adjust the steering box screw, you use the rachet, extensions, swivel and deep 5/8 socket to loosen the lock nut. Then, switch the socket for the 3/16 allen socket (you still need the swivel). Of course, before you even touch the steering box, check to see if you are in spec. If you're in spec, don't futz with it. Here's the procedure (with comments) in case the link I posted in the 4x4 thread goes dead some day:

To check steering gear meshload :
NOTE: The engine must not be running.

Turn the steering wheel from right lock to left lock at least once.

Remove the driver air bag (I'd rec you not have your face or any other part in front the air bag when removing it (you'll need a 5/16 socket or socket driver to remove the two covered screws that you access from the back of the steering wheel)).
Remove the cotter pin from the pitman arm.
Remove the castellated nut.

Separate the drag link.
Use the Pitman Arm Puller to separate the steering sector shaft arm drag link. (huh? Just remove the drag link from the pitman arm in simple terms as discussed above and leave the outside end connected at the wheel).

Rotate the steering wheel to the left stop and then rotate the steering wheel back approximately 45 degrees (kinda wiggle it to get out play)

Attach an inch pound torque wrench to the steering wheel bolt and slowly and evenly rotate the steering wheel clockwise 1/2 turn (180 degrees). THIS IS YOUR PRELOAD MEASUREMENT
NOTE: The peak preload torque must be within 0.23-1.13 Nm (2-10 lb-in) or a new steering gear must be installed.

Record the peak preload torque.

Rotate the steering wheel to its centered position (approximately 2 turns from either stop). Place the torque wrench on the steering wheel bolt with the handle in the vertical position. Rotate the torque wrench slowly and evenly 1/4 turn (90 degrees) from each side of center. THIS IS YOUR ON-CENTER MEASUREMENT

Record the peak on-center torque.

NOTE: The on-center torque must be 0.56-1.02 Nm (5-9 lb-in) greater than preload torque without exceeding a total of 1.92 Nm (17 lb-in). The on-center torque minus the preload torque is the meshload torque.

If necessary, carry out the following steps to adjust the on-center torque.
NOTE: Rotate the meshload screw clockwise to increase and counter clockwise to decrease.

Adjust the meshload screw to the proper rotating torque. It might help if they gave you some direction, so here you go: On mine, approx 1/4 of a turn of the meshload screw was the difference between the the high end of spec (or slightly tighter than spec) to the low end of spec (or slighlty looser than spec).

Hold the meshload screw and loosen the lock nut.
Adjust the meshload screw.

Verify the rotating torque is to specification.
Readjust if necessary.
Tighten the lock nut.
Hold the meshload screw.
Tighten the lock nut.

Install the drag link, castellated nut and cotter pin (well, check your measurements again to make sure you are in spec before you reinstall the draglink).

Now, mine was way loose when I first messed with it it now seems. However, no need to change the gear as the pre-load measurement indicated I was in very good shape. When I first did my adjustment old school I roughly tightend my screw 3/4 of a turn until I felt some slight resistence and backed if off from that. Again, if you have a 1969 ford F-100, that method is probably good. In my case I was just dump lucky. When I measured it properly, I discovered my center load torque was at 17-ish inch pounds. and my pre-load was 8-9 inch pounds. That was pretty close, but a little too close to the high end of the spec range and maybe ever so slightly beyond spec (considering that the torque wrench could be off a bit as you just never know). 1/8 a turn counter clockwise from that and my centerload torque is 15 inch pounds and my pre-load measured more like 7 inch pounds. A buffer is good.

__________________
It takes a village to raise an idiot.
deminimis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2008, 10:40 PM   #2
Site Team
 
daveb's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Turlock Ca
Posts: 10,407
Garage
Wade sounds like you need to note the specs of your vehicle and make it a sticky. Good info dude!
Dave.
__________________
2006 Ford 6.0PSD EB-50/E-PH SMB 4X4 Rock Crawler Trailer

Sportsmobile 4X4 Adventures..........On and off road adventures
daveb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2009, 05:01 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
geoffff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 1,061
Re: Ford Steering Box Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by deminimis
First off, the chances you need to adjust your steering box are probably pretty slim. These are set up by Ford and most likely not a problem with your rig. ...
Deminimis -- How many miles were on your van? I'm wondering if this is a factory-error adjustment or a wear item?

My steering has now gotten pretty loose (~3 inches play) on my van (2004 Ford with 40,000 miles). My mechanic can't see any problems with the linkages, and suspects the steering gear box.

-- Geoff
__________________
2004 Ford, SMB 4x4, RB-50
https://octopup.org/sportsmobile
geoffff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2009, 05:11 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
deminimis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Baja Whenever Possible
Posts: 1,012
Re: Ford Steering Box Adjustment

Many more miles than you have. However, if I recall correctly, Scatter had to replace his steering box. Bill, am I remembering this correctly??
__________________
It takes a village to raise an idiot.
deminimis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2009, 12:39 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
scatter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Blairsden, CA (when not on the road)
Posts: 1,109
Re: Ford Steering Box Adjustment

Well, I'm on my sixth (yup, as in 6th) steering box. Some of you might remember my attempts at tightening up the vans turning radius and I'm the one that caused SMB to correct their web site re the advertized turning of SMB's. Anyway, I believe I might have done some damage to my origional box with a longer pitman arm. Ford replaced a couple of boxes before I gave up and went back to the original arm. After that, I had over 12,000 miles on the van and Ford will only replace most warrenteed parts with rebuilt. These boxes have been used in Ford rigs for many, many years and their rebuilts only have new seals, nothing to do with the bearings or balls. So, the next couple of boxes had lots of slop and I ended up going to Ford and bought a new box and installed it myself. That seemed to solve the problem.
So, doesn't answer geoffff's question, but lets everyone know what I did. I have done, on other rigs, what deminimis mentioned in his original post. I have found that it did help, but that sooner or later I had to replace the box.
My advise geoffff is to have someone get in the rig behind the wheel and move the steering wheel back and forth while you lay underneath and look for movement in the various tie rod ends, etc. If there is a loose joint, you can spot it as one part starts to move a little before the next one. That means that the connection has some slop in it. Sometimes you can also feel some play by putting your hand on the joint. There shouldn't be any "klunking" felt. You won't hear this (I hope not cause then it's REALLY loose) but will feel it. Replacing rod ends is both easier and cheaper then steering boxes. I don't remember what I paid for mine, and I'm in Baja and don't have those files with me.
Another thing to look at are the track bar ends. A couple of us have had wandering and replaced the track bar bushings and that REALLY helped the wanders.
Good luck
__________________
Scatter
You can be anything you want on the Internet,
it amazes me that so many choose stupid....

2007 RB50, 6.0
K1WGB
scatter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2009, 01:02 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
deminimis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Baja Whenever Possible
Posts: 1,012
Re: Ford Steering Box Adjustment

Scatter, I thought you guys were north of the border by now. Hope you had your shots.
__________________
It takes a village to raise an idiot.
deminimis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2009, 01:10 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
geoffff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 1,061
Re: Ford Steering Box Adjustment

Thank you, Scatter for those details!

It now turns out that my particular problem probably isn't with the steering box, but with the drag link end.

-- Geoff
__________________
2004 Ford, SMB 4x4, RB-50
https://octopup.org/sportsmobile
geoffff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2009, 05:35 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
scatter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Blairsden, CA (when not on the road)
Posts: 1,109
Re: Ford Steering Box Adjustment

We're heading back north next week. No flu down here, but one of the guys on the beach is starting to look a little funny....
Attached Thumbnails
Nose.jpg  
__________________
Scatter
You can be anything you want on the Internet,
it amazes me that so many choose stupid....

2007 RB50, 6.0
K1WGB
scatter is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Sportsmobile SIP or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:27 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.