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Old 08-14-2022, 11:39 AM   #11
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I used 1der brackets as well until I went with the crossbar system.
Can't say enough about the crossbars.

I have a set of 1der brackets that not using.
If someone needs them shoot me a pm. I'll let them go for a good price.

Br,
John

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Old 08-14-2022, 12:09 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jso5000 View Post

I mounted my awning to the ends of my cross bars.

Works really well.

That doesn't really work for those of us with pop-tops.......unless we also happen to be NBA players......
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Old 08-14-2022, 04:38 PM   #13
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1der Awning Brackets

I am interested.

Send particulars to steverwallin@aol.com.

Thank you.
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Old 08-14-2022, 06:28 PM   #14
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Brackets are gone.
Br
John
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Old 08-14-2022, 09:57 PM   #15
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Are any of you or tied about after intrusion after digging out the putty?
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Old 08-15-2022, 06:36 AM   #16
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There is no need to remove all the putty. There needs to be about 3/16" to 1/4" of the vertical inner gutter lip clear to get a good grab. In fact, if too much putty is removed then the horizontal face of the Z clamping piece that presses down will be over angled.

Re: gutter putty and water intrusion - Use a good polyurethane caulk to seal any voids. Or touch up paint.

I just addressed the gutters on Beastie as we changed our medium CCV pop top out for a high CCV pop top. I dug put the old putty anywhere it had detached/ shrunk from the roof/gutter metal. It was surprising to see how far the moisture and surface rust had migrated below the putty. I used rust dissolver and sanding to address the rust. I filled the worst sections with JB Weld 2 part Plastic Filler. Then followed 86scotty's Loctite Marine PL caulking. The final layer was Raptor Color matched using the bottom edge of the gutter lip as the cut line.

Here are some pics of a gutter where I have removed a bit of putty. Thd first pic is Beastie prep for Raptor. The last pic is of a gutter that required very, very slight clearing of putty. The middle two were a gutter requiring more clearing.
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