High Heat Contact Cement???

[boywonder]

Although the DAP landau top adhesive is formulated to be sprayed, I've brushed on every ounce of that stuff that I've used....works fine. As time goes on the solvents evaporate a bit and it becomes a bit more viscous, but still brushes fine.

[Russell]

Originally Posted by posplayr

I thought I would throw this out there to hopefully avoid having someone else from getting into the same situation as I am in.

I have tried to use 3M Hi-Strength 90 spray adhesive for installing reflectex and headliner materials. It claims on the can to be "heat and moisture resistant".

https://www.acehardware.com/departme...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

Additionally, I have now bought Weldwood Contact Cement and have come to find out that you will end up[ with the same problems with it at the 3M 90.

https://www.dap.com/products-project...wood-original/

The problem is that neither of these products are designed or intended for the high heat inside of a car interior which you might encounter in the hotter areas of the country like Tucson AZ.

I suspect that in more moderate climates near the coast that you will not run into these problems. I used to live in Santa Barbara county and never ran into these problems before.


The issue is that these adhesives become gummy and never fully cure. They basically remain in a rubbery sticky state and never develop or at least eventually lose any strong adhesion properties.

3M has recommended an alternate product for automotive applications

Product ID 38808
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40069438/

And Weldwood recommends a similar alternative product

Ladau Top and Trim adhesive.
UPC 7079800127
https://www.dap.com/products-project...ndau-top-trim/

I'm now in the process of trying to strip off the gummy material using a 36 grit flap wheel. Solvents really do not cut the rubber material so it is only through a physical action that it can be removed.

I use high heat resistant adhesive all the time, it's used for making things such as plastic laminate counter tops, it will withstand high heat applications, but it does soften up when heat is applied. once it cools off it will continue to adhese to the product. To remove the adhesive use lacquer thinner. you might ask a local upholstery shop what they use in hot climates. Good luck.

[posplayr]

Originally Posted by Russell

I use high heat resistant adhesive all the time, it's used for making things such as plastic laminate counter tops, it will withstand high heat applications, but it does soften up when heat is applied. once it cools off it will continue to adhese to the product. To remove the adhesive use lacquer thinner. you might ask a local upholstery shop what they use in hot climates. Good luck.

The 3M 90 dried normally in AZ winder days but lost its adhesion after a while and a year later when I removed it it was stocky and did not cure.

I asked 3M what they recommended and said solvent as I was using and had already tried acetone, lacquer thinner, and alcohol. None of it worked. A heat gun was actually the best using a washcloth that would roll the stuff into a ball.

A flap wheel was the only thing really effective. I primed the headliner again and used the Automotive-grade 3m headline product. Summer is over so I hope it is fully cured by next summer.

BTW, go Braves I graduated from LHS in the 75