High top roof rack mounting - Looking for suggestions

[BeauBasingerPhotography]

Thanks in advance for the feedback! I searched and searched the threads but couldn't find an answer to my questions.

I just purchased a Ford E350 EB and will be throwing a 24" Fiberine top on it. I have to choose between the Transit style top and the Bubble top. The reason I'm considering the Bubble top is because it's the only rack Aluminess
will make for my hightop van. Whichever I choose will be reinforced on the top and sides for cabinets by Fiberine when they manufacture it.

So, I only see roof racks mounted to the sides of the fiberglass tops. Aluminess and Fiberine both don't have any feedback on how much weight the rack/top can now hold.
*I don't plan on much weight being in the racks (Solar panels, surf/snowboard, traction boards, myself from time to time).

Here are my questions:
1. Does anyone here have a similar set up that can give feedback as to how much weight their roof can hold safely?
2. Is there another reputable company that will build a rack for fiberglass hightops?
3. Would a hightop with a flat roof be better in this case so I can put a low profile rack mounted right to the roof?

If you have links to relative threads please share too. I appreciate all the input!

[NorCalVanDwlr]

I have a van with a domed shaped hightop as well and working for a solution to this right now as well

Hopefully we can both figure it out

[BCam]

There's another, current thread on pretty much the same topic:

https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...tml#post280262

[nyyankees588]

I have a hightop (brand unknown) on my conversion van. There are a few options that have super tall legs that will actually reach all the way to the stock gutter channel and mount to it as a typical roof rack. I don't recall the name of the company that makes these off the top of my head, but they are like $400 for two cross-bars if I remember correctly and they look goofy as hell (my neighbors used to have this setup).

Yakima also makes "artificial gutters" that install in to the side of the roof and basically give you the ability to place roof gutters wherever you like that will allow you to mount normal cross-bars to them. I used these - they are sturdy (I used yakima A1 towers along with them). The benefit of these is that they are attached to the strongest part of the high top (the vertical section, rather than the horizontal section) and they allow for widely accepted round/square cross-bar setups made by Yakima & thule. I've run this setup for nearly 3yrs with no issue.

I am currently in-progress of transitioning to a unistrut setup that allows for a lot more adjustment in rack positioning - a great resource for this can be found here.

In terms of weight carrying capability, I believe fiberine offers some reinforcement options on their tops that will help with this (in the form of wooden reinforcement on the interior of the roof box). I've stepped on the outer edges of my hightop while accessing my roof box & solar panel with no issues, but I'd never step in the center of it as I don't trust the strength of the fiberglass across the center (my roof to is a fiberglass/honeycomb cardboard construction, not as strong as fibergine tops, I believe). If you want the ability to walk/easily access your roof area, the best setup in my opinion is a stout roof rack that has metal or wooden slats that can be walked on (rather than trying to walk on the fiberglass to itself).

[NorCalVanDwlr]

I will check out your link thanks

I am checking out all the options trying to find the best solution

[Fool120]

I decided against the rack, as I couldn't choose which of these methods to go with, mostly for solar panels, and was worried about the side roof strength for attaching. That said, I was up on top of my Viking hightop putting on flexible solar panels, though mostly on all fours, as I was more worried about sliding off.

Originally Posted by nyyankees588

I have a hightop (brand unknown) on my conversion van. There are a few options that have super tall legs that will actually reach all the way to the stock gutter channel and mount to it as a typical roof rack. I don't recall the name of the company that makes these off the top of my head, but they are like $400 for two cross-bars if I remember correctly and they look goofy as hell (my neighbors used to have this setup).

Yakima also makes "artificial gutters" that install in to the side of the roof and basically give you the ability to place roof gutters wherever you like that will allow you to mount normal cross-bars to them. I used these - they are sturdy (I used yakima A1 towers along with them). The benefit of these is that they are attached to the strongest part of the high top (the vertical section, rather than the horizontal section) and they allow for widely accepted round/square cross-bar setups made by Yakima & thule. I've run this setup for nearly 3yrs with no issue.

I am currently in-progress of transitioning to a unistrut setup that allows for a lot more adjustment in rack positioning - a great resource for this can be found here.

In terms of weight carrying capability, I believe fiberine offers some reinforcement options on their tops that will help with this (in the form of wooden reinforcement on the interior of the roof box). I've stepped on the outer edges of my hightop while accessing my roof box & solar panel with no issues, but I'd never step in the center of it as I don't trust the strength of the fiberglass across the center (my roof to is a fiberglass/honeycomb cardboard construction, not as strong as fibergine tops, I believe). If you want the ability to walk/easily access your roof area, the best setup in my opinion is a stout roof rack that has metal or wooden slats that can be walked on (rather than trying to walk on the fiberglass to itself).

[Drizzt]

Originally Posted by BeauBasingerPhotography

Aluminess and Fiberine both don't have any feedback on how much weight the rack/top can now hold.

Late to the party but figured I'd add this for future searchers. Fiberine told me the roof can support 300 pounds for my Transit style extended high top. My roof has the 1/2" OBS bonded to the roof and the two strips down each side. This was an in person discussion with Gonzola, and I think the number came from experience rather than any kind of structural analysis. I was just on the roof this afternoon and bounced on it a bit and it does seem pretty study.