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Old 04-21-2015, 06:28 PM   #11
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Re: If you can't handle the heat (Part II) ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ketcham
Joe - You need to mount the pyro from the manifold to turbo. The turbo cools the heat considerably and the temperature reading is lower that what the turbo experiences. I would move the temp probe when you replace the pipes.
-j
Yeah, I know but the PO installed it. It's pretty common on the big trucks to mount it on the downpipe but I agree. I thought it might have just been laziness and not wanting to deal with any metal shavings in the manifold going into the turbo but it appears that Autometer actually recommends post-turbo as well. Another reason that probes used to be post turbo was the potential for the probe to melt and/or break off thus damaging the turbo. The newer ones are encased in a welded sheath of high-temperature stainless steel and breakage is a non-issue.

Obviously, pre turbo gives the most accurate exhaust gas temp and that's the hottest point you want to monitor. In my case, I add 250*-300* to my reading and try not to go over 1,000*. That is the same as 1300 (being conservative) pre-turbo. You can run for extended periods 1100*-1150* with short bursts to 1250* (pre-turbo). Generally, I'm 900* on a long pull and the max I've hit is 1100* bu tonly for a few seconds before backing off. I think I'm OK.

I don't think I'll be replacing the Y-pipe unless it cracks. And the flex joint does give out and apparently it happens more if you delete the EGR cooler and additional support it provides. That seems to be controversial and food for another topic. But I may buy another pyro and mount it pre-turbo and then I'll have both

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Old 04-21-2015, 07:09 PM   #12
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Re: If you can't handle the heat (Part II) ...

I have heard from a diesel truck mechanic that there is value in having the pyrometer mounted post turbo, in that it gives a better indication of the actual heat-soak temperature of the engine and exhuast components, rather than the more instantaneous temperature seen pre-turbo (which can rise and fall very quickly). That said, mine is mounted pre-turbo.

Most important is that the driver knows where it is, and consequently what temps to limit the exhaust to.


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Old 04-21-2015, 08:17 PM   #13
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Re: If you can't handle the heat (Part II) ...

I Never considered that perspective. I would be curious if post turbo would flux less.

I am in the process of doing this mod. However I did not consider the exhaust wrap. Seems easy to do.

Is it me but the commercial option seem somewhat expensive?

J
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Old 04-21-2015, 08:42 PM   #14
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Re: If you can't handle the heat (Part II) ...

Sinister wrapped the y pipe as well. Any negative affect with this mod? Increase heat to turbo?
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Old 04-22-2015, 05:56 AM   #15
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Re: If you can't handle the heat (Part II) ...

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Sinister wrapped the y pipe as well. Any negative affect with this mod? Increase heat to turbo?
My only data point on that is Mr. Badger. He wrapped his probably a couple / few (?) years ago and reported to me that he has had no ill effects from wrapping them.

I may very well wrap mine later.

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Old 04-22-2015, 11:42 AM   #16
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Re: If you can't handle the heat (Part II) ...

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Originally Posted by Ketcham
Sinister wrapped the y pipe as well. Any negative affect with this mod? Increase heat to turbo?
My understanding is that by containing the heat it helps the turbo to spool. The ceramic coating helps keep under hood temps down. Wrapping the downpipe might be the more important performance mod for the wifey-is-getting-toasty meter.

You can also buy ceramic paint if you have a sandblaster and want to DIY. Pricey stuff. http://www.cerakotehightemp.com/finishe ... /titanium/

Looks like a worthy mod to me but I still wonder whether it actually makes the engine run hotter (ie., higher EGTs) while at the same time lessening engine bay heat (which kills fittings, wiring, plastic, and most importantly the FICM). I guess it's all inter-related but sorta Catch22. I'll be curious to see how it turns out and offer up a Kickstarter campaign to help pjpvi with an pyrometer installation for the requisite data collection
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Old 07-24-2015, 08:29 PM   #17
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Re: If you can't handle the heat (Part II) ...

Bump for a cool mod and a heat report.
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Old 07-24-2015, 09:00 PM   #18
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Re: If you can't handle the heat (Part II) ...

I posted my results on a different thread but will summarize it here:

100* day, pulling 6-10% grade 3000 feet, 13,000 lb van loaded ECT never reached 1000*, typically 850* under load. Before my ECT alarm would go off at 1250* before I would have to sometimes even rest the van. Stupid since aluminum melts at 1230* and the cylinder heat is above ECT mounted at the base of y-pipe near the manifold. Heat caused my blown head gasket at only 25K miles and probably did at 12K miles and I just did not know it...I guess vans head gaskets go, they go differently than a truck, in part due to the larger degas bottle and the liquid expands in the added space not blowing any or little coolant so undetectable. Pistons are aluminum, btw. I melted one with burning the ethylene glycol, flash point around 750*.

1. Fender vents, task the aux fan to kick on at a lower temperature per DP-tuner. When the auxiliary fan activates cool air pulls in the driver side fender vent across the custom Zylstra air intake and out the passenger like a hot hair dryer. Unintended consequences as I was not expecting this by design.

2. Billet wheel for the turbo.

3. heat wrap and ceramic coat the turbo y-pipe and down pipe.

4. ECT now mounted in the manifold just before the y-pipe.

I wonder if the heat killed my alternator. Anyways, replaced with a 370A and will report my findings soon.

This is the summer of "why not just replaced every component of my engine."
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Old 07-24-2015, 10:25 PM   #19
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Re: If you can't handle the heat (Part II) ...

Ketcham, did you replace the bellows on the Y-pipe? And is the ceramic coating from a spray can or did you have it powder-coated?
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Old 07-24-2015, 10:29 PM   #20
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Re: If you can't handle the heat (Part II) ...

I actually bought the y pipe unit from sinister diesel - powder coated and wrapped - (yes replaced the bellows) and then on the down pipe went cheap and sprayed it. I figured exhaust was leaving into a 4" pipe just 2' away.

(Joe - any thoughts on my alternator issue - dash battery light - see thread just posted, thanks).
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