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Old 04-21-2011, 12:02 AM   #11
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Re: Installed a coolant filter

After scratching my head over the issue of routing the 3/8" return hose in such a tight engine compartment, I ordered a second 3/4" to 3/8" T-piece from Bob Riley at the diesel site. I spliced into 3/4" the hose from the engine to the espar pump and return hose to the 3/4" return hose. This will not increase flow resistance to the espar.

**For a simple installation** I would order a second aluminum T-piece and splice at this site.
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Old 05-10-2021, 01:22 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by etbadger View Post
We installed our filter under the van next to the fuel filter, tapping off of the feed line to our coolant-heater. We installed it when re-plumbing the coolant-heater to actually send heated coolant through the block (as it came, our coolant heater only heated up the heater-core and water-pump housing, so it didn't really help start-up in cold weather).

So far the filter has not clogged up, but it has not been on very long, and the coolant has been flushed out at least 2x before.

-e
Badger I keep using your experiences and website to guide my mods, even 10 years later.
Do you have any comments / experiences about using the block drain for the coolant and hydronic heater?
Is the block "pressurized" to drive the coolant through the filter?

Thanks!
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Old 05-19-2021, 12:33 PM   #13
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I have re-plumbed much of the 'extra' coolant lines in the past decade, but am still feeding all the extra stuff (coolant heater, fuel-tank heater, potable-water-heater, coolant filter) from the freeze-plugs in the rear of the block. The return is near the water-pump/thermostat area.

There is sufficient flow in this configuration that our 5gal potable water tank heats fairly quickly (when the engine is up to temp), and the coolant-heater is able to heat the block itself when that is needed (immediate starts at -5-10deg F).

The main issue is access to the freeze plug on the passenger side, as it is right behind the starter. I had to remove the starter to install the plumbing, and watch everything carefully to make sure nothing was rubbing.
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Old 05-19-2021, 06:00 PM   #14
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I had my mechanic installed the Sinster Diesel version of this same kit on my 6.0 E350. FWIW Sinister provides great instructions and offer a kit specific for the E series vans.
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Old 06-10-2021, 03:40 PM   #15
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Garage
This topic is also covered in another thread here on the forum.

https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...s-11296-2.html

I did this about a year ago. I also realized that there is so little space under the bumper AND I also realized my big fat hand had no room to splice into the coolant supply lines where they suggested up inside the engine compartment. What I chose to do, since I have a factory rear heater/AC unit installed was to tap the heater hose that runs to the rear heater unit. The factory hose goes to a valve unit a little aft of the fuel pump. I tapped the supply hose to that valve to feed the filter and ran the return up to the catch tank and tapped in there for the return. There are tons of holes in the frame rails to mount the filter bracket to and access is super easy. I used a Sinister Diesel Universal coolant filter kit and just added some extra hose to make the return line back to the engine compartment. Super easy, all hose connections are very accessible and no drilling of any new holes was required to mount the unit, the frame has a zillion holes in it from the factory down there.

If you have a factory rear heater/AC unit have a look at what I am talking about, you will be glad you did.
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