Paint prep for conversion? 2014 E-250 workvan.

[kalabaddon]

Was thinking more about bugs n stuff and just not wanting holes in my van :P

again you have been an awesome help. I think I got all the info I need for this stage of my build.

[kalabaddon]

Another question. I got the interior floor completely removed from back and pulled up 99% of the stuck floor padding, but there is lines of RTV everywhere and some of it is peeling up ( pic 1 shows general area, pic 2 shows close up of me holding it, and pic 3 is entire back showing the rtv running all the way from front to back and crossing at extended area.)

Is this normal, If I pull it off can I just add new rtv or is this something special? what is used here, it still feels soft even tho its 8 years old.

And to clean out all the caked on dirt I was thinking of a pressure washer, I have a 2700 psi Generac with swappable tips, think this will be fine to use, I got a soap head for it?

[JWA]

Remove the front seats and factory floor covering. Get an angle grinder, outfit it with a wire wheel and go to town on any visible rust you see---take it off down to bare metal. Pay close attention to the joints at the wheel wells being careful to not remove all the factory sealant.

If you remove too much of the factory seam sealer contact someone knowledgeable and experienced with 3M products, ask which sealer they'd use that will be covered with an automotive finish material or POR-15.

POR-15 is a relatively hi-build material that would act as a bit of a seam sealer but using the actual material before the POR-15 would be recommended.

Any surface rust you see above the first inches of the side walls you can pretty much ignore--its not going anywhere.

Prep and clean the sanded floor according to POR-15's recommendations and when its all dry apply the POR-15 top coat. Keep in mind the optimal applying temperatures, start early in the morning so you can complete maybe two full coats through out the day. IIRC they suggest about 4 hours drying time between coats, taking much longer (like sitting over night) and they want you to scuff the dried first coat.

Airborne bugs getting trapped in the POR-15 are finished---slop a small dab over their bodies and wish them well.

What's your planned floor covering the rear cargo area?

[kalabaddon]

Well poop. That sealant is loose in a few more areas ( but not pulling up like shown in this one area. ) I accidently screwed it a bit trying to get years of caked dirt off the edges... was why I was curious about hitting the inside with a power washer to get rid of it all. But I guess just a hose and a normal brush for now.

Also I can be dense, "Any surface rust you see above the first inches of the side walls you can pretty much ignore--its not going anywhere." Do you mean if the rust is on side of wall I don't have to worry about it to much, as in don't worry about por-15 there maybe just spray a simple rust converter for those areas if anything at all? ( as in waters not ever gonna collect there to make enough rust to be an issue? )


I am gonna have a meltdown before I get finished with this LOL.

I am taking it to a good mechanic friend of mine for a more in-depth look over Wednesday ( I had a ford dealer inspect it when I bought it, but I am finding stupid shit they totally missed, and was in a different state from my normal mechanic when I go it so...) so will start with the wire wheel this Thursday.

As far as floor I seen people lay down a few strips of wood as braces to screw in to and they use a rtv like glue to hold it in place to the floor, then put foam board in the gaps, with 3/4 inch play topper. Then to start might just use a area rug. if you know of a simpler setup by all means let me know :P or if this is a bad idea.

Right now I just want to get moving so want to get floor done, install a heater and electrical ( gonna make a large box with outlets, don't need permanently installed lights on roof. think wood box with 3 deep cycles and everything in it, only wires leaving are going to charge locations, other wise just usb ports and a couple 110 ports.)


Sorry for so many question and some that seem to repeat the same question. I have MAJOR anxiety issues getting started doing things that I am not a subject matter expert in and tend to get stuck on some things mentally.

Any tips with dealing with the bolts holding the body to the frame? The tops look a bit rusted and I can chip of scales of rust from some of them ( the washers more then the bolt it self). Was thinking of replacing them all if it is easy n cheap.

Thanks!

[REF]

Here’s my rebuild thread from a few years ago, I also applied Por-15 to the entire floor, I think on pg 2. I’d leave the bolts, might be cheap, but certainly not easy. You might want to pull up any loose sealant and use new sealant on just those areas. I installed the pre cut closed cell foam pad from bedrug on the floor, the nice thing about that is you can use it for a template to cut your floor ply.
https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...ild-22536.html

[JWA]

Originally Posted by kalabaddon

Sorry for so many question and some that seem to repeat the same question. I have MAJOR anxiety issues getting started doing things that I am not a subject matter expert in and tend to get stuck on some things mentally.

Thanks!

Check your PM's---message for you there K-Don!

[BCam]

Hopefully your cab's floor pan isn't in as bad a shape as mine was but here's a thread on how I repaired mine that may help. JWA was a big help to me as was a friend who used to build hot rods and restore classic cars for a living. The POR-15 fiberglass and POR-15 silver paint did a great job on the smaller holes.

https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...diy-27589.html

[kalabaddon]

@REF, Thanks for the build link! That Bedrug place looks interesting, so you used the bedrug as insulation layer on bottom or in addition to another layer like XPS? how is your floor working out for you? Do you take your rig to cold climates? I already kept my original plastic floor from the back as a template since head from a few people that having one makes it a lot easier to do the floors. but I like the idea of a simple base layer I can drop in and put plywood on top of. vs setting up floor ribs and putting insulation in it. ( also save a inch or so of headroom! ) is the floor an important insulation area or is the roof more important to have good insulation?

@JWA, shot you a PM, thanks!

@BCam, I had to delay taking the front seats out, so not sure yet, but I am hoping it is not that bad. The van lived in AZ its entire life, but "after" I bought it I figured out the prior owner was a water damage specialist. So it would of seen more then a normal AZ van from stuff thrown in there. Fingers crossed it is nothing more then some surface rust like the back.

[REF]

I just used the bedrug foam piece as an insulation layer, no other insulation, as you may have seen in the build thread, I did put down strips of sound deadening material in the valleys first, then the bedrug, then ply on top.
Yes, insulating the floor is an important component, I’m not sure if it’s as critical as the walls and roof, but the bedrug piece does have some insulating properties, it’s thin and as you mentioned, doesn’t take up much headroom and it comes precut.
I have read of people experiencing issues, namely squeaking, using 1” foam board under their ply floors if it’s not adequately screwed down or secured properly.

[kalabaddon]

So I am planning to use this for the seams after calling a few shops and them telling me that most any 3m automotive seam sealer should be fine as long as it lists my use case. This is what I figured would be a good bet. it mentions floor pan, interior seams, and paintable.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40066999/

I was gonna get the caulk gun style so I don't have to buy a 100 dollar custom 3m applicator LOL.

Anyone have info for me before I buy/use this? it will be for just a few areas that have peeled away when taking of the floor or after I cleaned it, I don't have to replace it all ( I think, unless I am told differently).

Stuff is going a little slower then expected since I been helping some friends with stuff as well that needed my van.





@REF, I did look over the build post, just wasn't sure about if the floor was only that bedrug or that an another layer. Thanks for the info!