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Old 09-10-2020, 12:11 PM   #21
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This is what I used. Long cure time, but there is also a faster setting formula available...
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Old 09-10-2020, 01:11 PM   #22
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This is what I used. Long cure time, but there is also a faster setting formula available...

Iím in the marine industry and use lots of different caulks. I canít stress enough to use a non permanent adhesive on most any seal, especially on something that uses fasteners to hold it in place. 5200 is a seriously strong bond.

A good option is 3mís 4200 or the uv resistant version 4000 UV. Both of these form a great flexible seal while still allowing removal without damaging the mating surfaces.


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Old 09-10-2020, 09:00 PM   #23
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I agree ^^^^. That stuff I used many years ago when I did this was a one time fix. I had a tube of it left over from something I was working on around the house. Sorry but I don't even remember much of this. I was surprised when this thread popped back up.

I have not used the 3m products listed above but everyone else has and I will likely try them someday. I have used Vulkem 116 and RV lap sealant on a few of these. There are many satisfactory products for RV/fiberglass roofs out there. About the only ones I would shy away from are residential caulks and silicone.
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Old 09-13-2020, 04:38 PM   #24
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Hey guys, I'm getting ready to do this on my pop-top! I am leaning towards painting the inner side of the MaxxAir lid so that light doesn't pass through the white plastic. This got me thinking, is the white plastic they use UV-resistant? To those that have had this installed over a year, has the white plastic yellowed at all? If so, I might as well paint the exterior as well.

I also wanted to share this DIY guide to better prep the MaxxAir fan for drainage, which I'm thinking about following although I don't really see 1) how water would be a problem in the first drainage spots he adds (above the rubber seal), and 2) how water would get to the second drainage spot he adds (circuit board), as long as the rubber gasket is good.

EDIT:
I had an idea for a different way of filling in the "valleys" on the old pop-tops. Have you guys ever used JB Weld PlasticWeld? I used that syringe epoxy to re-enforce my waste water tank pipe that was cracking around the flange and leaking. It's been rock solid for a year now.

Or perhaps this JB Weld PlasticWeld Epoxy Putty?

I suppose it would be best to stick to fiberglass since that's what the pop-top is actually made of, but I have no experience with it and it's not like I'll be sanding down past the Raptor Liner AND the original gel coat to get to the fiberglass to build it up. Thoughts?
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Old 09-14-2020, 05:41 AM   #25
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Any epoxy like JB should work fine. It just needs to bond to the fiberglass well and those should.

I've seen that thread on upgrading the Maxxair but I think it's way overkill, especially if you are starting with a new one. I've never had any trouble with these at any age and it most certainly does rain a lot where I live.

Interesting idea on painting the inside of the lid. You could use Plasti-dip if you want to try this before committing. In fact, it really doesn't need to be a trial. Plasti-dip will do the job and stay there as long as you like but you've got the ability to reverse it.

Personally, I'd go with the smoke like Maxxair fan whether you are painting the inside or not but I just think they look a lot better.

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Old 09-17-2020, 02:38 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyview View Post
Hey guys, I'm getting ready to do this on my pop-top! I am leaning towards painting the inner side of the MaxxAir lid so that light doesn't pass through the white plastic. This got me thinking, is the white plastic they use UV-resistant? To those that have had this installed over a year, has the white plastic yellowed at all? If so, I might as well paint the exterior as well.

I also wanted to share this DIY guide to better prep the MaxxAir fan for drainage, which I'm thinking about following although I don't really see 1) how water would be a problem in the first drainage spots he adds (above the rubber seal), and 2) how water would get to the second drainage spot he adds (circuit board), as long as the rubber gasket is good.

EDIT:
I had an idea for a different way of filling in the "valleys" on the old pop-tops. Have you guys ever used JB Weld PlasticWeld? I used that syringe epoxy to re-enforce my waste water tank pipe that was cracking around the flange and leaking. It's been rock solid for a year now.

Or perhaps this JB Weld PlasticWeld Epoxy Putty?

I suppose it would be best to stick to fiberglass since that's what the pop-top is actually made of, but I have no experience with it and it's not like I'll be sanding down past the Raptor Liner AND the original gel coat to get to the fiberglass to build it up. Thoughts?

JB weld or you could also try a product called Marine Tex. Basically the same two part epoxy stuff. Itís has a nice thick consistency and is sandable.
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