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Old 05-23-2022, 01:05 AM   #1
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 62
Removing/Disconnecting Rear AC/Heater

So, I have a 2010 RB Chateau with the factory rear AC/Heater. My AC stopped working to I took it to the shop and basically there is a leak back there that is causing coolant leak. I did notice a lot of antifreeze draining from the rear system back in the fall but didn't really use the van much since then.

Apparently I also have a small leak in the radiator up front but I've never seen any fluid up there. Anyway, the shop basically want $$$ to replace the 4 hard lines and anything else in the rear system. Since I basically don't use it at all I'd like to disconnect the entire thing.

Can anybody give me any guidance on how to do that? Since the rear lines may be what's leaking I'd like to basically cap them off as far forward as I can access. Do I cap them off individually or do I need to cut and connect them a certain way to ensure normal flow from the engine and to the front part of those lines?

Any guidance appreciated. Thanks,


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Old 05-23-2022, 05:38 AM   #2
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
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Tough questions to ask, the answers often even worse when it comes to dealing with the Ford factory rear heat/AC system. I bought a 2005 E-350 people mover and almost immediately went about completely removing the rear AC because I know it to be such a source of problems. The entire case including blower motor, ducting, heater core and evaporator were physically removed as I needed the floor space it all occupied.

The heater was relocated into the raised roof ceiling so I retained the coolant lines. The AC system tubing leading from the front was left intact but I replaced all components (except compressor) that fed the rear evaporator. This was relatively easy I simply replaced the receiver dryer and two hoses.

The problem I had leaving the rear AC intact was when the fragile refrigerant tubing Ford uses is just too prone to developing leaks which disables the front AC as well---its all one continuous circuit.

IMHO removing and replacing the under hood components back to a front-only AC configuration is the better route from a reliability POV. Some have used aftermarket AC lines caps or plugs but they run the possibility of damaging the compressor due oil starvation.

Not sure this is the answer you're looking to hear but its what I did in a similar situation. Here's another thread created about this, my last comment adding some actual part numbers I used.

Feel free to ask any questions---glad to answer if I can.

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Old 05-23-2022, 10:20 PM   #3
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: SE Washington
Posts: 953
We had this done to our 2009 E250 at a shop. The engine coolant lines can be capped, but the A/C lines have connections that can't be field installed. Apparently older vans had different connections like flare fittings that could be fabricated. Anyhow they put in the factory parts to convert it to front AC only as mentioned above.

Total cost was $1000 in 2011.
2009 E250 RB 5.4L "SilVan"
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Old 07-31-2022, 09:23 PM   #4
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 62
Not sure what happened there....making edits.

It has been a crazy couple months with work so just getting back to this.

I really like the idea of changing the system to a front-only setup using OEM parts. I don't really understand how the AC and heater system do or do not interact in the rear system but if I could see a diagram I could figure it out.

Speaking of there an online parts fiche on these vans? I'd like to lookup the parts I need. They are everywhere for motorcycles, but can't find the actual fiche for the van.

Oh, and strange enough...when the shop told me about AC issues they recharged the system...3 months now and the AC is still working fine so this clearly isn't a major leak. Maybe I'll just recharge it a couple times a year. ;-)
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