My door fell off and I had to buy a new one at isotherm-parts.com for $175 including shipping.
A few times I did not make sure the door was shut TIGHT and it swung open "hard".
Then it started not staying shut when I went over bumps and swung open again. I have been bunging it, before driving, for the past year. I thought the catch was bad but actually the plastic at the bottom of the hinge was breaking. Also the bolt at the top of the hinge was striping and the threads that was holding the top hinge bolt were wearing away. I forgot to bungee the door one last time 2 weeks ago and it swung open then fell off.
I used J B weld and glued the top hinge bolt. Moved, from the old door to the new door, the wood looking panel that SMB West had installed. Put the new door on. I have my perfect refrigerator back.
While I was at it, I installed a 12V fan, with an on/off switch, behind the frig. EDIT fan did not work out-that is for another thread
Last year, I had to replace the electronic unit when it stopped working. I added AC/DC converter for use when I am plugged into AC, like when I am home. I also had the frig wired directly to the fuse box with an off/on switch just before it reaches the fuse box. SMB West's wiring lost a volt somewhere from the frig to the fuse box.
20-20 hind sight regarding the broken door: I should have checked the top hing screw and tightened it if it was ever lose or put lock tight on it. When I was going to be going off road I should have bunged the door shut as a preventive. I should have added "Make sure the frig is closed TIGHT" to my "pre-take-off check list".
In spite of everything, I am happy with my 12V Isotherm Cruse 85 with ASU and love the fact that I do not have to be level for it to work.
Angel
Linear Mode
