Replacing the driver's side door lock actuator

fleabagmatt · 06-25-2019, 08:31 AM

The power lock on the driver's side of my 2000 E350 has mostly stopped working. My plan is to replace the actuator, but for the life of me I cannot figure out how to get the dang thing out.

My previous searches on this turned up bits of info here and there, but nothing very detailed and I can't seem to find it again. I know there is a bracket holding it in that is riveted to the door, I believe one option is to drill out the rivet, but I thought I had read that the actuator can be pried out of the bracket. I messed with it a bit, but couldn't figure out how and I can't really get my fat head in there to see how things are hooked up.

Any tips on removing it?

JWA · 06-26-2019, 05:45 AM

Drill out the rivet and replace the actuator using a 1/4-20 bolt and Nylok nut---that's really the only and best way to do this.

Being in the auto/truck glass biz I have the tools and rivets to do this but honestly the bolt & nut method is easy for most DIY's.

If you can find a truss head Phillips-drive bolt that'd be perfect---if not the typical hex head types work well too.

HTH

fleabagmatt · 07-03-2019, 07:33 AM

I think you're right. I just need to get in there and find a part number of the actuator so I can have it on hand before I start deconstructing things.

Kibo · 07-07-2019, 03:21 PM

I drilled the rivet and used a 1/4" rivnut with a rounded head allen 1/4" SS bolt. Tightening the bolt kind of dimples the bolt head into the door, so no clearance issues. This is on a 2011 so the actuator PN is different, but the attachment method is similar. My Google Fu says you should be looking for F7UZ15218A42A for a 2000, but make sure you verify before ordering.

NoR32 · 10-19-2019, 05:44 AM

The rivnut idea is genius

fleabagmatt · 05-12-2020, 02:15 PM

Well, it only took 11 months

but I thought I would post a follow-up to this thread. I finally got around to drilling out the rivet that holds the actuator bracket in. The correct part number for the actuator as Kibo stated was F7UZ15218A42A for my van. It took me a while to figure out how to disconnect the hooked end, but unbolting the latch from the door and rotating the whole thing so I could twist the actuator off did the trick. I ended up popping the new actuator out of its bracket to make it easier to bolt it to the door. After that I just had to snap it back in.

$35 and some skinned knuckles and I now have working remote unlock on my driver's door. Thanks to JWA and Kibo for the tips.

JWA · 05-15-2020, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fleabagmatt

Well, it only took 11 months

$35 and some skinned knuckles and I now have working remote unlock on my driver's door. Thanks to JWA and Kibo for the tips.

Better late than never---I also have a PDL issue but with the actual wiring as I've already replaced a few of the non-working solenoids.

And I'm glad to have helped even if just a little bit.

Good going and thanks for the update!