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Old 01-17-2017, 09:29 PM   #11
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Based on what the salesman told me, this is the house battery currently in there.

Once again, don't know age or condition. But, assuming it's working properly, at 200ah, 2 100W panels should be sufficient. With that in mind, sounds like a 20A MPPT should work.

That BlueSea device seems pretty useful. Wondering how the thing is currently wired...how do you generally keep a big house battery like that charged?
The solar system is going to keep the house batteries charged when there is sun, the times when you are driving the alternator will provide charge to the house batteries. (It's how I built my system)
I hope I answered your question.

As for how SMB wires their rigs... I've never had any opportunity to dig in, so I can't say.
It might be best to ask them for a wiring diagram for your specific van?

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Old 01-17-2017, 09:30 PM   #12
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Based on what the salesman told me, this is the house battery currently in there.
Typical SMB 4D battery.

Yes a 20 amp controller is all you need for 200W of panels. Buy a decent quality controller. (not an Ebay $30 one)..Neighbor did that a smoked a couple of really nice AGM house batteries.

A few folks here are using the Midnite Solar Kid controller...MPPT and does everything except slice bread...really nice unit but $$...and a bit funky looking for some.....

I'm using a Samlex 30 amp PWM flush mount controller...works fine...$168 on Amazon.....not MPPT though...PWM controllers require parallell wiring for multiple panels.

https://www.amazon.com/Samlex-Solar-...lar+controller

Edit: my controller is a slightly older version...and was about $140
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Old 01-17-2017, 09:38 PM   #13
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Typical SMB 4D battery.
Buy a decent quality controller.
Sticking to the renogy theme, I was thinking something like this.

As far as parallel vs series, I honestly have no clue. I've started some light reading on the subject...but I'd obviously like to go with whatever is most efficient.

Edit: Seems like the MPPT controller can handle a series run, which sound like it may be the better option?
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Old 01-17-2017, 09:52 PM   #14
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Not sure if this helps, but here are some photos of the area where the inverter is. Fuse box, etc, but hard to see what the other stuff may be...





Wondering where the isolator/separator may be located so I could make the blue sea upgrade.
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Old 01-17-2017, 10:32 PM   #15
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On the older vans it's under the hood but sometimes hidden pretty well. Do you have any under hood pics? One of us could probably spot it.

I'd still go for the BlueSky 30 amp PWM controller personally. That Samlex Boywonder looks good too though.


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Old 01-17-2017, 10:35 PM   #16
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On the older vans it's under the hood but sometimes hidden pretty well. Do you have any under hood pics? One of us could probably spot it.

I'd still go for the BlueSky 30 amp PWM controller personally. That Samlex Boywonder looks good too though.

I would most definitely take Boywonder up on his offer to help. He can probably show you a lot of things about your van that you may not know yet too, such as PH springs adjustment.

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Old 01-18-2017, 09:04 AM   #17
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Yup, Bluesky is another quality controller that is popular here.....and Morningstar.

At a high level, the differences between series and parallel wiring your panels are:

Using a 2 panel example, series wiring delivers the same wattage at half the current and twice the voltage.

This minimizes "I squared R" losses in the wires to the controller. Some of the power from the panels gets wasted heating up the wires, due to the wire's resistance. This heating increases as a function of current squared.....so it goes up quickly with increased current.

Parallel wiring 2 panels delivers the power to the controller at twice the current and half the voltage. Doubling the current causes the heating losses to go up by a factor of 4...(2^2..or 2 squared). Large gauge low resistance wires can minimize heating losses so that's why we stick to 10awg-12awg wires from the panel.

Parallel panels are less sensitive to partial shade though. If one entire panel is shaded the other panel still puts out it's usual power. The power output of series wired panels acts much the same as a single panel partially shaded....that is....reduced power output.

12V PWM contollers are limited to parallel wiring of panels...MPPT controllers usually allow series wiring or even house voltage larger panels.

One other thing to keep in mind unrelated to the above....a single 200W panel will likely weigh less than a pair of 100W panels since there is less aluminum frame, among other things....you will appreciate this every time you pop the top, assuming that your top is manual.

Adding stuff to the roof quickly adds up....sometimes resulting in bent crossbars, which is a conversation for another day/thread.


Renogy makes a nice square form factor 200W panel.....
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Old 01-18-2017, 06:13 PM   #18
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Thanks again for all the info. I'm going to pause the conversation until I (hopefully) get the van this Friday. But, in the meantime, I've put together a quick list of what I'm thinking after considering all of your input.

-2 100W Renogy Mono Panels (parallel) - mounted on aluminum L brackets, using pre-existing PH bolts (need L brackets, longer bolts, new rubber gaskets)
-Y Cables
-GoPower Plate and sealant
-Various crimps and wrenches
-12 awg copper solar cables (length depending on needed run)
-Morningstar PWM 30A controller
-12 awg copper solar cables with battery terminal connection
-Blue seas ACR (to replace existing separator or isolator)

Let me know if any of the above sounds out of whack, or if I'm headed the right direction.
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Old 01-18-2017, 06:54 PM   #19
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Nothing out of whack.......except maybe mounting from PH bolts using L brackets....can't visualize that.....I used 6063 aluminum channel.....

You don't necessarily need to connect the solar directly to the house battery, although you certainly can.....my controller output is connected to a blue sea fuse block.

...and one other thing (of course!!)....consider the temp probe for the Morningstar controller, this will provide more accurate charging profiles to the battery, potentially extending the battery life. There are likely two connections on the back of the controller for the temp probe, the temp probe has a two conductor wire and bolts to one of the battery terminals to monitor battery temp......Probably around $30-$40
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Old 01-18-2017, 10:13 PM   #20
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L brackets....can't visualize that.....I used 6063 aluminum channel.....
Sorry, couldn't think of the right name, but yeah - channel.

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...and one other thing (of course!!)....consider the temp probe for the Morningstar controller
Ha, right? Seems there's always one more helpful component. But, that looks like a worthwhile investment.
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