Starting Batteries

[scatter]

Yeah, I'm pretty optomistic. I've also been using Optimas for may years in half a dozen rigs with no problems. I figure It can't be any worse. Only problem is that the Ford batteries are covered for 3/36,000 and I'm kind of on my own on the Optimas. Such is life....

[John and Dana]

If I am not mistaken the Optima batteries come with a 24 month warranty.

John

[jage]

Optimas are not recommended for Diesel. The company is in town here, and I couldn't get them to tell me why. I went with Duralast Gold from autozone.

I run a blue top Optima in my Jeep.

[scatter]

Originally Posted by jage

Optimas are not recommended for Diesel.

Now you tell me.... I wonder why? An amp's an amp, and that's what you need to spin the starter. I know on the diesel, after it starts, the alternator doesn't kick in for thirty seconds or so. Again, I wonder why? Give the engine a few to warm up??

Well, I've bought 'em, installed 'em and you guys will be the first to know if they don't work. Maybe I should hang on to the new Ford batteries I'm getting??

[daveb]

Sorry but that what the guy told me about the optima's also. Maybe it's a urban legend because they work in my bass boat. I was told that the red top is the starting battery though. I don't remember if I posted my "fun" with Ford but I did vent on the SMB owners group. Ford used every excuse to say all was well. I told them to separate the batteries and test them with a carbon pile tester. They lied all the way (2 dealerships). But think of how much they save if your rig will still start before the warrantee is up. Mine were off gassing so bad I thought it was going to blow. Even at that they refuse to admit they were wrong.....Ford

[John and Dana]

There certainly seems to be a lot of misinformation floating around regarding the Optima batteries. I just visited the manufacturer's web site www.optimabatteries.com and under the Q & A sections it specifically states that for diesel applications that Optima recommend dual red top batteries.

The red top Optima is specifically designed as a starting battery, the yellow top is a deep cycle and starting battery and the blue top is designed for marine use.

John

[jage]

Too bad that- they missed selling me 2 of them a few weeks ago because their own rep didn't know that.

[daveb]

The information seems correct from what I have been told. I could not find why some people suggest that Optima batteries are poor for diesels. Maybe because of the difference between the deep cycle compared to the red top starting battery??? I have had problems with leaving something on and dropping the battery voltage below 11 volts or so. A wet cell will re-coup much better than a spiral glass mat when dropped to low voltages, although I was told that a high amp charge will bring an Optima back. I never tried that yet. My red top in my car was shot the first time I let it drop to a low voltage. Expensive loss for a new battery. For my bass boat, I like the fact that (with no draw) the Optima will sit for months w/o a charge and stay at full potential. I also like how fast they charge back up, much quicker than a deep cell wet battery but once they are subjected to a low voltage they are gone. Yet even a wet cell will be somewhat damaged by the same conditions and who wants a 60% battery bank? At the price you have to ask "what's in your wallet". Loosing 2 high dollar batteries due to a detector might be a consideration.
DaveB

[TwoVans]

Just swapped out my starting batteries. This thread helped a bunch. Thanks Scatter!

A couple of additions:

1. I went with DieHard Platinums. Mostly because Scatter mentioned the issue with the distance between the posts.

a. The Platinums (65) are an exact match in size so no issue with the length of the ground.
b. The Platinums appear to be made by Odyssey which is working great in my Jeep. 3+ years with no corrosion.

2. The battery box is designed to leave the back two bolts and front bottom bolt on the frame. Once I figured this out, getting them off and back up was relatively easy. Just loosen up those three and take off the top front, disconnect all of the grounds and you are ready to go.

3. The cables are not long enough to set the batteries on the ground prior to disconnecting. I didn't have a floor jack, so I used a cooler that was high enough (13.5") to not leave the batteries hanging from the cables, but low enough to get a wrench in to take off the covers and disconnect the posts.

4. The cables are mounted to the frame between the batteries and in front of the front battery. Recommend disconnecting both from the frame to give you enough slack prior to trying to lifting the boxes off of their mounting bolts.

5. Ratchet wrenches with adjustable angle made the job MUCH easier! A socket was required on a couple as well.

I had a heck of a time getting the batteries down. However, after learning these lessons they went up pretty darn easily (with a little upper body strength).

I wouldn't hesitate to do it again.

Hope that helps the next guy avoid the PITA!

[Gnarvan]

Trying to figure out who makes the battery being sold by different outlets is pretty tough. Check out this website for more information.

http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/batbrand.htm

It seems national chains spec their batteries from different manufacures depending on shipping distances and associated shipping costs.