taking apart a Dana 60 front axle. terminology please?

jtolittle · 03-28-2010, 06:04 PM

Hello,
I just took apart today my front axle : Dana 60; i.e removed the brakes, rotors, knuckles and shafts. I am cleaning everything , replacing few parts (ball joints, steering linkage...).
when I removed the axle shafts, i was really surprise NOT to see any seal or dust boot between the shaft and the axle housing (right where the shaft enters the housing). Is that normal or is it specific (unfortunately) to my van?

I didn't take the diff cover off yet, but I am expecting also a seal at the exit of the diff housing for the axle shaft. But when i removed both shafts, I could see through the axle and I don't think there are any seals in there... But a lot of dirt!! I think I will remove the diff cover, the gears and clean the axle with some kind of long ball brush...

And also I am pretty sure my right hub assembly was missing some seals.
I didn't find any next to the outer bearing, but it looks normal. At the rear side of the drum, I have a "knuckle bearing??" and a wheel seal outside of it. is the bearing the right name for it? It just looks like a plate with a ridge, no balls or rolls... (note I have the ABS ring, but no sensor??? the van is 2000)

And the the spindle has the inner bearing (well stuck!!) and a dust boot sealing on the outside. What is the name of this sealing please?

Finally the shafts themselves. They have a dust boot for the outside part and a plastic washer next to it. what is that seal called also please?

Can you please correct me if I am wrong or let me know the exact names of all those seals.
Thank you very much
JT

Stumpalump · 03-28-2010, 11:37 PM

The tube is open where the axle goes in. The seal is in the pumkin. They can be a PITA to change so if they arn't leaking most never change them. If they do leak then they only drip a little bit when parked on a side hill. If you are asking these questions then you may not know that if you pull the carrier or ring gear holder then those bearing caps must go back on in the exact same orentation. Mark them with a punch before you disasemble. If your seals arn't leaking bad then leave it alone. The seals and bearings I have never had a problem getting with any thing more than a basic description. You have a hub and a spindle. The axle dust boot is a lot of times left out and may not be kept in stock. I have allways just reused them. If you are into a lot of water and mud then some say the seal keeps stuff out and some say it traps it in. Grease your bearings and put it back with new wheel hub seals. If you swap bearings because of blue spots or pits then you need to beat out and replace the races. They are sold seperatly. Use Timken bearings and races.

I'm not sure why you pulled it apart but fix what you have too, grease it, and put it back together. No real advantage to spend all the time and money only to risk something going back together wrong. if you think you need to swap the axle u-joints then only use genuine Dana Spicer joints. All the rest are not worth installing because they are weaker. One more time ...Do not mix up the location and orentation of those bearing caps if you just have to take it apart. Use a torque wrench to put them back. Leave it alone if you are not leaking oil out of the tubes.

jtolittle · 03-29-2010, 08:34 AM

Thanks for the great info.
I took it apart in the first place because I have to replace the ball joints. and my right side axle shaft was leaking oil.I am not sure if I will remove the carrier, but I would really like to clean in the housing...there is a lot of dirt.
I have to find new dust boots because those are all worn out and teared..
I'll keep looking and try a third auto parts store...Maybe they'll know a little more than the previous two (shouldn't be too hard!!).
Again, thank you for the tips.
JT

Stumpalump · 03-29-2010, 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jtolittle

Thanks for the great info.
I took it apart in the first place because I have to replace the ball joints. and my right side axle shaft was leaking oil.I am not sure if I will remove the carrier, but I would really like to clean in the housing...there is a lot of dirt.
I have to find new dust boots because those are all worn out and teared..
I'll keep looking and try a third auto parts store...Maybe they'll know a little more than the previous two (shouldn't be too hard!!).
Again, thank you for the tips.
JT

You will need to pull the carrier to replace that inner seal. It can be a bitch. That will be good anyway if you decide to clean it. If it's that dirty you wind up pushing all that crap into your seal and center section when you slide the axle back in. Search your area for a Dana Spicer dealer for the right parts.

jtolittle · 03-29-2010, 09:48 AM

Can it be done without a case spreader?

Stumpalump · 03-30-2010, 10:07 PM

I've never seen anybody need a case spreader. If it's stuck what you do is jab a pry bar against the carrier to stop it from spinning. Next turn the drive shaft or yoke and it drives the carrier right out. When they start coming out they come out fast. They are heavy and yours will hit the ground the first time you do it. The bearing races will fall off so if you have helpers to catch them. It will seem stuck and comes out slow but once it's past about an 3/4 inch or so out it litterally falls out onto the ground. It's very heavy and greasy to hang onto. Put down a sheet of plywood for it to hit. Everybody drops the first one they pull. Keep hands clear because when it falls you can't stop it. It's about 50 lbs of sharp slimy rolling thunder. You are under the rig on your side and it's too much to hang onto. Try and just grab it and yank it out before you use the obove method. A lot of times they come right out or just need an easy nudge with a pry bar.
Getting those seals in and out...your on your own but I hear they arn't as bad on a 60 as as they are on smaller axles. Make sure you grease the seals and the axle shafts so you don't burn up the new seals. If they leak when your done then give them time to stop. Don't ask why but I've seen new ones leak only to stop and never leak again.

**daveb** · 03-31-2010, 05:31 PM

How long before it stops leaking? I wish I would have heard that. I understand that the fluid has to drain and I ran it up on a tilt but it just kept coming for over a week or two. I gave up and took it to a shop who re-did the job. Cost me about 400 bucks

Stumpalump · 03-31-2010, 08:30 PM

Unless it's pouring lube then a few drops after a sidehill are worth not having to take it all apart. I bet the guy who installed the seals forgot to grease the seals or he pushed all that dirt and crap from the tubes right into the new seal when he slid the axle shafts in. You are this far so you might as well pull the carrier and seals. Cleaning it up as you said then replace and grease the seals and axle shaft before you slide it in. The ones that stop leaking probably have the dirt thats pushed in them working it's way out. It's not rocket science but more of just a lot of grimey work. You will be glad you went thru it because the next one will be a snap. I bet when your done you can pull shafts and a carrier in 30 minuts on the next one. Remember the bearing cap orientation. The pig is line bored with the caps in place. Thats why they must go back on the same way.

**daveb** · 03-31-2010, 09:56 PM

I figured that's what happened. I did get reimbursed but the cost of the rental car and vacation I had to take still sticks in my craw

jtolittle · 04-01-2010, 07:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stumpalump

I bet when your done you can pull shafts and a carrier in 30 minuts on the next one.

It took me 2 days to pull the right shaft. Finding the right tools, researching online how it is assembled..
And 15 minutes to pull the left one!!!

This week end i will take out the carrier. first time,so probably a good half day...