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Old 02-28-2020, 01:06 PM   #1
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Total loss of power E350 gas continues

Highly edited repost- I have a 2001 E350 V8 5.4, RB50. It runs great 99% of the time, but occasionally and unpredictably there is a hesitation during acceleration while cornering or starting from a dead stop. On a half dozen occasions there's been a total shutdown with complete loss of power, brakes, steering, which also seems to be associated with cornering at slow speeds or starting from a full stop. It might also correlate with a hot engine. On most occasions the vehicle starts again immediately after putting it in park and restarting the whole system. There have also been a few times where it's taken hours for it to start up again normally.

The garages I've brought it to have cleaned a dirty mass airflow sensor, replaced the air filter, replaced Idle Air Control Valve assembly, replaced spark plugs, replaced gas filter.

Once the van was towed to a Ford dealership in Grand Junction after a shutdown that resting for an hour did not "cure". The dealership "found no related codes in system, ran OASIS, no TSBS or SSMS. Concern will have to be present for proper diagnosis”. Other mechanics have also said the problem doesn't seem to leave evidence, their diagnostics can't find the problem, and they can't replicate the problem. They reasonably hesitate to just start replacing suspect systems without good evidence it's part of the problem.

Strangely, I had this quitting problem 3 times at the very same intersection off Hwy 95 between Tonopah and Goldfield, Nevada coming from different directions; the temperature gauge wasn't reading overly hot in either case.

I'd sure like to get to the bottom of this as it's a real safety issue. Thanks for the suggestions and tips so far below, I'll be checking them all out.

Scott

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Old 02-28-2020, 01:34 PM   #2
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Two minor points and not hitting upon your problem so take this as intended helpful advice........

List what year your van is----that's vital info as the various years could be a pertinent factor in digging into this for you. Fuel type and displacement also vital info.

Break your postings into shorter paragraphs---these walls of text to tough to read without losing one's place. (This might be just me but others might have the same problems too.)

If I were to make a huge WAG this sounds quite related to the ECM, perhaps one or more wiring connections losing contact and causing the engine shut down. Those who've so far replaced parts somewhat willy-nilly based upon some sort of speculation aren't doing you any favors but the upside is they're at least trying something.

Maybe also post a truncated version of your odyssey on FTE's site under the appropriate fuel and engine CID sub-forum---a lot of members there are flat out Ford engine and ECM geeks and might provide a few valuable suggestions or share a similar experience.

I know this doesn't directly address your issue so my apologies for that---I sincerely hope you're able to solve this soon and for little expense.
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Old 02-28-2020, 04:02 PM   #3
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Makalu1 - I had experienced "events" very similar a while back, VERY FRUSTRATING!

No codes on the Engine, and many different people trying to diagnose the problem...all scratching their heads. Without fault codes, and the sporadic nature of the issue, it simply became a crap shoot. As you've discovered, also becomes a real safety issue (extreme difficulty in steering & my Rig essentially had no braking power once the Engine shut down).

Read through the attached Thread below...Lot of good/valuable input from Members trying to help me out, so thought I would share the collective knowledge in hopes something in it helps you discover your gremlin

https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...hts-23570.html

Post #11 documents the discovery of my issue.

Really hope you're able to find a resolve to your situation!

*** I have a 6.0 Diesel, but I'd suspect a lot of similarities may apply.
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Old 02-28-2020, 05:13 PM   #4
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JWA, you are absolutely right, I'll see if I can delete this post and start again. I was feeling pressured to get it out this morning and got lazy. Thanks for calling me on it. And duh on not including the most important info!!!
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Old 02-28-2020, 08:12 PM   #5
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No need to delete the post. You can edit for 24hrs.

Suggestion: copy and paste your original post into Word or ??, make edits then copy and paste back into the original #1 post position.
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Old 02-28-2020, 10:29 PM   #6
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Actually it would be easier to delete and start again than edit. Anyone know how to delete a post? I thought that would be obvious but it's not.
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Old 02-29-2020, 05:02 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1der View Post
No need to delete the post. You can edit for 24hrs.

Suggestion: copy and paste your original post into Word or ??, make edits then copy and paste back into the original #1 post position.
This is almost exactly as I create and post lengthy contributions--agree on no real need to delete the entire post.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Makalu1 View Post
Actually it would be easier to delete and start again than edit. Anyone know how to delete a post? I thought that would be obvious but it's not.
You can contact a site team member to do that for you but as Ray says make your edits in the existing post and you should be good to go.

I completely understand having a sense of urgency and not wanting to slow down once the ball is rolling. I do find creating in Word et al tends to produce better posts. Since the opening post establishes the "tone" of the thread I try to post the best I can, the main goal being clear, concise and answer most questions with enough info.

Even so people will ask questions which is good as they tend to further the conversation.

Do let us know how you proceed and what results come of your diagnosis---I sincerely hope its an easy find and fix.
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Old 02-29-2020, 05:08 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1der View Post
No need to delete the post. You can edit for 24hrs.

Suggestion: copy and paste your original post into Word or ??, make edits then copy and paste back into the original #1 post position.
This is almost exactly as I create and post lengthy contributions--agree on no real need to delete the entire post.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Makalu1 View Post
Actually it would be easier to delete and start again than edit. Anyone know how to delete a post? I thought that would be obvious but it's not.
You can contact a site team member to do that for you but as Ray says make your edits in the existing post and you should be good to go.

I completely understand having a sense of urgency and not wanting to slow down once the ball is rolling. I do find creating in Word et al tends to produce better posts. Since the opening post establishes the "tone" of the thread I try to post the best I can, the main goal being clear, concise and answer most questions with enough info.

Even so people will ask questions which is good as they tend to further the conversation.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Twoxentrix View Post
Makalu1 - I had experienced "events" very similar a while back, VERY FRUSTRATING!

Read through the attached Thread below...

https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...hts-23570.html

Post #11 documents the discovery of my issue.
That discovery ^^ is valuable to share as sometimes the smallest problems can and do lead to much larger issues such as complete yet intermittent failures Makalu1.

Do let us know how you proceed and what results come of your diagnosis---I sincerely hope its an easy find and fix.
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Old 03-05-2020, 02:44 PM   #9
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I would say to look at connectors around the battery because the battery gasses are corrosive and can corrode electric connectors in the vicinity Including any ground cables.
Try wiggling wires while engine is idling to perhaps trigger the symptom.
Furthermore With the engine off, disconnect and look for any green or corrosion in connector pins and spray the pins with silicone spray if you have it.
Also Disconnect ground cables and wire brush.
Furthermore, with the engine off, disconnect and reconnect basically all sensor connectors under the hood to check for corrosion and of course disconnecting and reconnecting can assure a good connection.
Make sure no connector pins have fallen-moved backwards into the plastic connector effecting the connection.
Check battery terminals and all connections there are solid and corrosion free.

Consider disconnecting battery and unplugging and plugging in the main connector to the computers systems so you can check for corrosion there as well.

I’m reminded of my old pre 96(obd2) Buick would intermittently stall under heavy throttle, no trouble codes.
I finally replaced the engine temperature sensor fixed the problem which one would think was unrelated but it was throwing off the computer system.
However one would think your computer would pick up on such a problem but good for thoughts of thinking out of the box.

Look for sites of people’s experience of common problems like on carcomplaints or Edmonds consumer reviews, perhaps someone else had the same problem.

Please be sure to share your fix for future others!

Take care
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Old 03-05-2020, 08:52 PM   #10
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I had a similar sounding situation on a GM product. My problem was 3 (original and 2 aftermarket) ignition modules. Found out GM had a technical advisory out for that issue. It really was a simple mechanical fix but frustrating just the same.


I had a Ford product that had an MSD ignition box that would intermitently fail which killed the engine. It took awhile but bypassed it back to stock and all was good after that. Less power but it did run.


Electrical gremlins are the worst. Good luck.
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