Thanks for the responses!
Originally Posted by Lilnuts2
What load range are the new tires?
How many miles on the van drivetrain?
These are E rated General Grabber ATx tires
I have 137k miles on the ODO, drivetrain has never been replaced to my knowledge.
Originally Posted by Offroading_is_Fun
As a casual comment, interpreting yours as not having a steering stabilizer installed at all--
I had the original stabilizer from original conversion in '97... It was bleeding/weeping, changed it out. Huge difference in the amount of feedback that came back up through the wheel (16 hour, 1150 mile drive and my hands would be numb), after changing it, smooth sailing.
That said, I am not convinced a steering stabilizer would be the primary culprit behind your particular issue.
The original steering stabilizer was totally shot, basically not doing anything, I upgraded the front suspension with the Agile RIP package but the steering stabilizer was back ordered so I actually drove the van for a couple months before getting the Agile Fox 2.0 steering stabilizer shock, when I put it on I noticed more of this turning sway feedback then when it was not installed. So I took it off prior to getting the new tires on, so back to baseline, but then with the new tires I now get this sway feedback while going through turns. I have yet to re-install the steering stabilizer, maybe it will help not sure. I'll probably do that experiment when I have time. A lot of people on this 4m have mentioned that they remove it and it improves things like ArtcticTraveller mentions below:
Originally Posted by arctictraveller
As recomended by others, I removed my steering stabilizer and never
Put it back. The van became easier to drive with less constant steering input needed due to reducing the initial amount of force needed to move the wheel, and then the resulting amount of slight over steering requiring a quick counter correction. Improving my steering has been a several years long project but it’s now much better.
Have you checked the amount of play in your steering box? Have you had the alignment checked? Increasing caster to about 5degs made a noticeable improvement. Basically, every component of the front end needs to be inspected. Best of luck.
Arctic Traveler - I'm going to an alignment shop on Monday to get it inspected and then I'll have a better idea of whats going on. I'm not going to get an alignment until I'm 100% sure I don't need to replace things like bushings, ball joints, etc because you'd need another alignment after those are installed anyway.
Regarding the steering box play - I'm afraid I don't know how to / what the steering box is, could you elaborate on where it is and how to check it?
Originally Posted by carringb
What's your tire pressures and actual F/R axle weights?
Are your wheels wide enough for the new tires? I'm leaning towards these, because it got worse with this change along and the steering damper making things worse.
Of course, inspecting EVERYTHING in the steering system is a must, and you can spot most defects by looking underneath while somebody else moves the steering wheel back a forth a little bit.
I'm running both front and back at 60PSI right now, however, with my older tires I always filled them up to 70PSI - maybe that's part of the equation. I'm open to any input or suggestions on this.
weight distribution is quite close last time I measured it:
I'm pretty sure I'm running the stock Ford F-250 17" steel wheels, these wheels were put on during the quigley conversion, as I believe factory E-series wheels are 16 inch and Quigley basically throws the F-250 dana 60 axel on the front end of their E-series conversions but don't quote me on that, I could be wrong.
The mechanic who did the tire install said he was running the same wheels and tires on his F-250 truck and it worked fine for him, he said I might get some frame rub with the 33" but when I was deciding between 33" vs 35" tires I opted for 33 because you don't have to re gear the drive (4.10 to 4.56 is what I've read, I'm currently running 4.10) and you don't have to cut the body panel to accommodate the 35" tires, and (hopefully) not need to buy a new set of wheels. (trying not to break the bank that much, but what's another $2000 in a new set of wheels right? (where's the sarcasm emoji on this thing ... ) )
Fingers crossed it's as simple as replacing some bushings and an alignment. I'm kind of tempted to just replace all the ball joints and other wear parts in one go since I've basically replaced everything else in the front end suspension already and this van does have 137 miles on it and is 11 years old so those ball joints, sway bar, and bushings are probably past their prime anyway.
will keep you guys posted!