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Old 06-05-2020, 03:47 AM   #21
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Excellent information Chinook. Sounds like arctictraveler is running stock brakes but the thermal expansion may be why he is experiencing the problem. Maybe the master cylinder or proportioning valve are malfunctioning. Don't know how to test for this.

Don't know if the front brakes are stock or larger, but if larger than stock, the weak link, so to speak, could be the back brakes.

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Old 06-05-2020, 06:51 AM   #22
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I've done the brake upgrade using 2008 brake parts which include larger front calipers, used the entire stock system including master cylinder and factory hard lines although I did change the front flexible lines due no interchangeability between the pre-'08 lines.

I've had zero issues with excessive pad wear, front or rear. I don't fully subscribe to the fluid level being affected by heat and causing AT's issue. I would consider 1Der's idea about rear caliper mounts as that seems a bit more plausible to me ONLY because I'm using the parts thought to cause the fluid level issues.

Just my $0.02 worth mind you.................
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Old 06-05-2020, 07:25 AM   #23
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My van eats brake pads about once a year as well. 1996 with rear drums and ABS.

The stock Ford brakes suck and i just roll with it at this point. Mushy pedal, heavy van, and linkage steering. It isn't a race car that is for sure.
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Old 06-05-2020, 08:28 AM   #24
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Thermal expansion of brake fluid is not a hypothesis, its a proven scientific fact of thermal dynamics and the laws of physics. Some brake systems can reach temperatures of 1200 degrees. But ok...

I can provide you a link to a guy experiencing this exact issue with his dodge pickup right now on youtube after swapping out his rear axle to one with bigger brakes. But im not going to try to brow beat you into understanding the laws of thermal dynamics as they apply to fluid expansion, pressure increases, and volume in an enclosed system of pipe or tubes.
We're talking about STOCK brake components. Getting into hydraulic systems theory in this thread in not applicable IMO. Plus, since Ford switched to rear disc brakes in '99, there is NO check valve in the master cylinder. It will backflow until it reaches reservoir capacity (at which point, it would like just pop the cap off).
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Old 06-05-2020, 06:06 PM   #25
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You could solve this by finally replacing that semi-float and putting on a real axle. You know you’re about 500 miles from a wheel coming off!

Your good ideas are costing me money.............
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Old 06-08-2020, 05:38 AM   #26
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Your good ideas are costing me money.............
Oh yeah--we love to spread our "costing me money" agony around here.
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Old 06-08-2020, 08:29 AM   #27
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Your good ideas are costing me money.............
While you’ve got the axle off you should replace the leaf springs so you don’t have saggy butt.

See? I’m being helpful!
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Old 06-08-2020, 09:40 AM   #28
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While you’ve got the axle off you should replace the leaf springs so you don’t have saggy butt. See? I’m being helpful!
Actually, it's more that the front is higher, than the back is too low. Anyway, as you know, all the springs front and rear are new, so at this point, it's a question of how to raise the back. With the new axle load capacity there's little doubt I'll be adding more weight resulting in even more rear sag. I'll probably add a leaf or two, plus an over load leaf I already have, left over from Agile. Then that brings up the issue of shock stroke, and probably longer shocks. Your great ideas keep ratcheting up the cost of a simple differential replacement, and I keep trying to think of ways to help spend your money, but so far you seem to already have all the bases covered, but I haven't given up yet.
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Old 06-08-2020, 10:28 PM   #29
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Yes, I had to get a different set of shocks from agile after my full float went in.....your semi-float set will not be compatible, sorry to say.
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Old 06-08-2020, 11:11 PM   #30
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These look nice.
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