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Old 01-03-2020, 02:56 PM   #21
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Aside from the aftermarket alarm that got installed later, the wiring in my 96 from the Austin shop looks pretty good.

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Old 01-09-2020, 07:19 PM   #22
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I cannot stand piggyback wiring. The crimp on Schotz Lock type connectors. They corrode, you can't realistically heat shrink them and they are usually the culprit on wiring problems! If they vendor is reputable he will run a #6 or greater wire to a fused/breaker power bar to the location where he finds room. There is always room maybe not under a van dash but somewhere in the cabin!
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Old 01-15-2020, 01:12 PM   #23
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I'll try to post an after photo tonight (although not 100% complete) and here's what was removed from the dash area.

Have NO IDEA what sportsmobile was thinking for wiring routing????

Several of the wires started at the fuse box area, underneath the drivers step, up the drivers B pillar, across the top at the front of the penthouse, back to the rear of the side doors and down to the fuse panel + inverter + electrical junction at and in front of the passenger wheel well.

Tom - I understand the all red coloring for wires as maybe it was an attempt to follow ABYC standards (I changed the starting battery+charging wires to red=positive and yellow=ground).

Progress is slow as this work is outside in near freezing temps after work and after sunset...and had to upsize from a 3/0 wire seal to a 4/0 wire seal.

Did get the SmartPlug installed with 6/3 amp ancor wire!!
And made new door panels for the side and rear doors (will post in the "what did you do today")
And started soundmatting the van walls.
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Old 01-15-2020, 02:15 PM   #24
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Personally I would have been satisfied if they had just identified the location and function of all the fuses.


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Old 02-09-2020, 11:10 PM   #25
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Here's the update...still not done:
1. added blue sea fused 6-switch panel
2. added 4-panel contura/carling switch panel and relocated the arb switches & battery switch to under the steering wheel.
3. added dual power post to metal frame under steering wheel with ground buss bar.
4. relocated a/c switch to the right of the steering wheel.
5. added about 12 weld mount studs to hold wiring and tubing under the van.
6. cut and heat shrunk all stock wiring that SMB tapped for power.

The anderson connector is to quick disconnect the 6-switch panel from the supply.
FYI - this trim piece is a tester to see how things fit...we have another piece for final draft.


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Old Today, 01:01 PM   #26
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Question... how do you get the B pillar panel cover removed or at least pulled away far enough to get behind there? Van is at shop for now so can't go out and look at it in depth. Thanks!
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Old Today, 01:30 PM   #27
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This is all from memory as the pieces are at home...

B pillar = behind driver or passenger seat?
The passenger van trim is different than the cargo van trim.

The upper half of the B pillar cargo van trim has two of the metal pressure pins in the middle and equidistant from the top and bottom (sorta).
The lower half of the B pillar cargo van trim has two? of the metal pressure pins in the middle that are equidistant from the top and bottom (sorta) and a plastic trim push pin at the top towards the door.

The metal pressure pins should release when the trim is pulled away from the pillar (toward the other side of the van).
The upper half will need the seat belt bolt removed.
The lower half will need the plastic push pin removed before pulling the trim.
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