Aftermarket Keyless Entry installed

[JWA]

That's a nice entry unit, decent price and looks like a straight-forward install. A few notes I'll add, not in any particular order......

1. Most aftermarket intrusion alarms have an RKE feature built-in which would be nice if some sort of alarm is desired. (This assuming PDL's are already present or will be added.) I myself use a CrimeGuard 350I5; lifetime warranty against defects, two remotes included along with other features that can be turned on or off as desired. Those run about $50, I have two in use currently and over the past 5 years they've been pretty much bullet proof. Check them out if an alarm and RKE is in your future.

2. An RKE feature will require tapping into the PDL wiring circuits which is very easy for anyone who has done any sort of car stereo or similar wiring. The only real skill necessary is being able to make good electrical connections via soldering, or using crimp terminals so newbies could do this too.

I do like this unit MikRacer installed though---very easy, right price---can't beat that!

[boywonder]

Originally Posted by Sheriffdoug

G'day atong,

Where did you get your keyless lock, would it fit my 2008 e350, please?

Pictures please?

Doug: Isn't your van factory keyless entry now?.......My 2008 is, but it's a wagon/passenger van.

[jmo1112]

This is a great write up and saved me a TON of time installing on my 04 E350!
One question:
That green and yellow wire that's constant 12V...mine is not always hot. It's like it's on a timer. Within 5 minutes of shutting the door, my remote works fine. But then it's like it goes to sleep, and will no longer work until I open the door manually. Only then will my remote work again.

Any ideas on what is happening here?

[JWA]

Originally Posted by jmo1112

This is a great write up and saved me a TON of time installing on my 04 E350!
One question:
That green and yellow wire that's constant 12V...mine is not always hot. It's like it's on a timer. Within 5 minutes of shutting the door, my remote works fine. But then it's like it goes to sleep, and will no longer work until I open the door manually. Only then will my remote work again.

Any ideas on what is happening here?

From my past experience with your approximate year the GN/YW wire feeds the dome light. From what you're describing your van has the feature where interior lighting stays on after doors are closed for a set period of time before extinguishing.

If so you'll need to find another constant 12 volt source. This is where factory wiring schematics become invaluable.

[mikracer]

Yeah back in 95, they didn't have the smart features that the more current vans have (delayed timer, etc). Luckily, finding a +12v source is pretty easy with a voltmeter so just poke around and see if you can find another one. I would imagine if you take your door panel off, you could trace back the +12v wire that is connected to the door lock switch.

[jmo1112]

Ah. Yeah I started to think it was related to the dome light. When I used my test light to look for 12V, I had the door open. Oops... I was really just trying to avoid having to run a wire from the driver's side, so I'll investigate in the door panel. Thanks for the suggestions.

[JWA]

If I'm correct assuming the wire bundle you show is the passenger side there will be a wire for PDL's that's always hot and could be used.

[jmo1112]

Found the 12V constant from the PDL's. It was the Black/White wire. A bit tougher to get to in the kick panel than the Green/Yellow, but it works great. Also hooked up the relay for the parking lights to flash with the locks. So all is well!

And, of course, as soon as I add a nice little luxury feature like this, my van decides to remind me how old it is by having the rearview mirror fall off as I was driving. Off to reattach that now...

Thanks for your help on this one.