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02-10-2017, 09:56 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Western Colorado
Posts: 1,228
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Another Home Build Electrical Thread
So i'd say I'm fairly adept at most mechanical things on these vans but as my build reaches the electrical phase I'm pretty lost. I have very little knowledge other than basic automotive 12v wiring. I'm fine with lights and switches etc.
Luckily I found Flux's electrical diagram and will be following it for the most part. I'm still unsure of a couple of things though.
1) In the attached diagram (thanks for letting me pirate it) where would I wire in my inverter?
2) Also I have a 4D AGM that will mount underneath. Do I need to ground the negative to the frame and then run another neg wire to the shunt?
3) This one may really seem silly...In the diagram when there are wire intersections or splices of a couple of wires (dark red circles or black circles). What will these look like? A terminal post?
4) Would deleting the converter change the diagram layout?
I'm sure I'll have more questions as I'm a total newb at this.
Thanks
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Desert Solitaire
2003 7.3L EB 4x4
Timberline 4x4 conversion
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02-10-2017, 10:11 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 1,420
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I'm the hack that put that together and you are welcome to it by all means.
There are a few things on there that are not shown, like bus bars.
1) Your inverter should be wired into the house battery positive and negative on the frame ground side of the shunt.
2) Your House battery negative will go to one side of the shunt, then every thing else that grounds, including (and most importantly) the frame ground will be on the other side. This is so the monitor sees incoming and outgoing charges.
3) The circles are intersections, but should really be bus bars or posts on the battery switches or fuse terminals.
4) No, deleting the charger/converter would simply remove it. everything else is as should be.
Where you see a multitude of wires coming into a dot, that will most likely be a busbar unless it's just two and they are near one of the battery swtiches.For instance, the dot on one side of the shunt where four wires, including the frame/chassis ground, connect will be a busbar.
The other busbar will be off the blue sea RBS where you see all that come together at the dot below the right hand terminal.
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Tim - 2013 EB V10 Agile 4x4 SMB PH Ginger Army All Terrain Mobile HQ
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02-10-2017, 10:27 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 1,420
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Here's a revised diagram that shows the busbars where you would want to tie in an inverter. This one is reversed from the one above as that better suited how I am actually setting this thing up. Also note that it's probably not necessary to use 1/0 from the alternator. Others have used 2 gauge. I found some 1/0 for cheap so I grabbed it. Since I did this diagram, I picked up one of those ZAMP 1000 Watt inverters that were to cheap to pass up. So I will stick that in there, tying it into the busbars. Probably need a fuse or breaker for it too.
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Tim - 2013 EB V10 Agile 4x4 SMB PH Ginger Army All Terrain Mobile HQ
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02-10-2017, 12:01 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Western Colorado
Posts: 1,228
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Excellent, thanks Flux! This helps me out quite a bit.
__________________
Desert Solitaire
2003 7.3L EB 4x4
Timberline 4x4 conversion
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02-10-2017, 05:04 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 1,420
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You are welcome. Glad to pass this along and it has been looked over by the likes of Scalf77 and a few others like Wonderboy so I feel pretty confident I am heading in the right direction.
Just remember that the battery is alone on one side of the shunt so the monitor can watch the power going in and out of it.
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Tim - 2013 EB V10 Agile 4x4 SMB PH Ginger Army All Terrain Mobile HQ
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02-11-2017, 08:35 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 33
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Fuses protect wires if they happen to short to the chassis. Best practice is to have fuses near or on the batteries. That protects more of the wire.
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02-11-2017, 10:53 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Fresno, CA / Dayton, OH
Posts: 202
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This is super nice and very clear. Thanks Flux, and thanks Saline for pursuing the topic.
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02-11-2017, 12:08 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Western Colorado
Posts: 1,228
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Does anyone recommend a particular vendor for most of the fuses, circuit breakers, wires etc?
Also still confused about having both the Blue Sea 7700 RBS and Blue Sea 7622 ACR. Don't they do the same thing?
__________________
Desert Solitaire
2003 7.3L EB 4x4
Timberline 4x4 conversion
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02-11-2017, 12:29 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 2,490
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I would go with Blue sea fuses, the 7700 is disconnect the House Battery from the normal house loads ("Fuse Block"), but still allow those loads to be driven by alternator.
I am in the middle of some home plumbing, but if you post or PM the general information of your setup, I can come up with some wire and fuse size. I need stuff like inverter/charger you are using, typical stuff you plan on running, any high current items that may get used. We will need some expected distances for your wire runs also, count both the power and ground runs.
-greg
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-greg
__________________________________________________ ______________
"Goldilocks" 2020 Ford Transit High Roof Extended 3.5 EcoBoost AWD Homebuilt
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02-11-2017, 02:44 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Fresno, CA / Dayton, OH
Posts: 202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saline
Does anyone recommend a particular vendor for most of the fuses, circuit breakers, wires etc?
Also still confused about having both the Blue Sea 7700 RBS and Blue Sea 7622 ACR. Don't they do the same thing?
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I wondered that at first too. Also, I think the switch allows an easy way to disconnect the house battery from the lights/appliances if you need to repair one or to prevent appliances from leeching when in storage. The relay protects the starter battery but not the house.
At least that is how I rationalized it.
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