Basics: Butt Connectors vs Soldering & Heat Shrink Tubing

[daveb]

I agree with that Viva, although I use a hydraulic press on stuff #6 and bigger. But I have a 3000 dollar press sitting in my work truck. I have issues with the connectors SMB uses plus they use solid wire (romex) in some applications and I like stranded wire better.

[larrie]

Viva mentioned labeling the wires. I agree totally. Have been using a product similar to this, http://www.amazon.com/Morris-Products-2 ... ire+labels, to label both ends the wires in my van. This way I can keep track of which wire goes to which circuit. There are other labeling methods but this one works for me.

[boywonder]

Originally Posted by Viva

There is more detail here from a fellow boater:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination

......just bookmarked that puppy....thanks!

[E350]

This is the splice I have been doing before soldering on multi-strand auto wire:



This is a splice mentioned by JWA:



A couple of unique products I have come across. Automotive grade diesel/chemical/fuel impervious heat shrink: Raychem DR-25 or Deray V25

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321272812404...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Wire for vehicles chemically resistant even suitable for immersion in gasoline: NEMA HP3 PTFE insulated multi-strand wire

[Viva]

Originally Posted by daveb

I agree with that Viva, although I use a hydraulic press on stuff #6 and bigger. But I have a 3000 dollar press sitting in my work truck. I have issues with the connectors SMB uses plus they use solid wire (romex) in some applications and I like stranded wire better.

Okay, you've got me beat by a long shot I have a "big" crimper for the power lugs, but in my case big translates to around 24" long and maybe 20# (well, I thought it was big, LOL) It does do a really nice job of crimping the copper lugs though, and I haven't once regretted the ~$200 purchase price. Being able to make good cables on site is fantastic (as you obviously know). You can put the lugs on facing just how they need to be, etc. And too, I figured that the tool is "free" if by owning it I'm not paying someone else to make the cables for me (but in reality I have no idea how I would do that anyway when each cable is sort of "custom" in length and orientation - guess I'd have to hire the whole job out). Small spaces plus large cables doesn't leave a lot of room for "extra" cable, etc.

As it turns out, I've gotten much more use out of it than I even thought I would: A friend's boat, my former SMB, another friend's RV, my own E-350/boat, etc.

I always tell myself I can sell this sort of tool on eBay once I'm done with it, but in reality I don't want to give up the capability, usually. So that theory doesn't really work

I hear you on the solid wire... UGH! I recently helped a buddy put a new AC panel in his RV and of course it was built using all solid Romex type wire. The new marine AC panel was set up for ring terminals/stranded wire (what one would use on boats). Luckily we were able to get all but one section of Romex changed over to stranded wire from the source (Air-con, microwave, first outlet, shore power, inverter). The one wire we could not do was the one leading from the generator which ran between two layers of floor structure (Class C), so we put a junction box in a cupboard and wire nutted (ouch, is there a better way?) the solid to the new stranded and then carried on to the new panel with the stranded section.

Being newer to the "RV world" (I come from boating), I was a bit disappointed to find what the typical standard practices were (not just SMB, but most RV's I have seen). But on the other hand, that just makes getting things tidied up all the more rewarding

[JWA]

Here's what I know----been at this crimping, soldering thing for a while now........

Solderless terminals absolutely need to be made with a ratcheting crimping tool---anything less and its pure luck if the connection is: a) electrically sound b) mechanically sound c) leaves insulation undamaged. I've found crimpers sold by S&G Tool Aid to be very cost effective and at the same time effect near perfect finished crimps.

This line has a "universal" crimping tool to cover the bulk of typical crimps, those with wire gauges ranging from 20 to 10, standard insulation and barrel thickness. If your DIY projects include terminals venturing into different terminals there are a few tools with changeable dies that accommodate most use we usually encounter.

Soldering is still the best way to effect a highly effective electrical connection. While there is some degree of validity to the notion this might be subject to the conductor breaking at the solder joint for the most part its not the case IF the solder joint is properly made. Notice the big *IF* because while soldering isn't brain surgery it does require a bit of skill and experience to do properly.

Solderless terminals were created to remove the skill necessary to quickly and effectively create splices or other wire ends such as ring tongue, quick connect, bullet connectors---this could be an extensive list given what's available these days. Repeating that using a ratcheting crimp tool the results can be repeated almost infinitely by someone with almost no training or longer term experience.

They are convenient, not necessary better nor more "road worthy" however the number of specialized terminals now available make them very shop or on-site friendly, wire terminating easier than ever before. Crimp terminals indeed have a place in our DIY world but as already said those truly interested in doing this correctly need to have the correct tools.

I'll update this if I've left questions unanswered---or worse yet created more questions than I attempted to answer.

[BrianW]

Ok, I'm sold on getting a good ratcheting crimper. Anyone have a specific recommendation and/or link to one that's affordable for the occasional user?

[E350]

BrianW: 10-4 on that buddy! From reading Viva's link re marine crimp-on terminals and from talking to JWA by phone, it seems that the crimper and the crimped are involved in an intimate relationship of sorts such that you should first pick the connections and then pick their crimper to make sure that the work well together?

So, you guys would you please link your crimp connections and the ratcheting crimper to use with them? Personally, I am particularly interested in carringb's uninsulated tinned copper connectors so that I can chose the shrink wrap I want to use and also make it longer to act as a strain relief like BroncoHauler suggested.

JWA, what that SG tool you were recommending?

So I thought I had the bomb crimper with my $30 Klein romex ground sleeve dimple crimper until I saw the pictures of what it does to insultated heat shrink crimp connections in Viva's link.

So question to all: Does a good crimper atually "wrap" the crimp connector around the wire. I.e., make one edge over lap the other. Or just smash them flat like my house wiring Klein dimple crimper?

[BrianW]

Thoughts on these two from Harbor Freight? Both get pretty good reviews and appear to have changeable dies.

Ratcheting Crimping Tool
http://www.harborfreight.com/ratcheting ... 97420.html

Hydraulic Crimping Tool for larger gauge wire
http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic- ... 66150.html

[Viva]

One comment on a larger ratcheting crimper. My smaller crimper is ratcheting and I like it that way (#22-#10 wire). OTOH, I specifically bought a non-ratcheting version of the big crimper (#8-4/0 lugs). Reason is that on a boat (and to some extent in a van), there are times that huge ratcheting wingspan would cause difficulty. I still always crimp all the way closed (and you calibrate the crimpers such that that is a complete crimp).

I have a (ratcheting) crimper just like the Ancor 702010 for small (#22-#10) self-adhesive shrink crimps (for actual crimp fittings I use either FTZ Crimp 'N Seal or the ones sold by Sailors' Solutions, not sure of brand name). The ratchet poses no issue with this smaller tool (so it's pure benefit).


For lugs (#8-4/0), I use FTZ Power Lugs (or FTZ starter lugs for the very small sizes in which I can't get a power lug, such as #6 with a #10 ring), and the FTZ Correct Crimp tool, non-ratcheting (although they also sell a ratcheting version). It is likely available for less in other places, but here is a link just for the record:

http://www.fisheriessupply.com/ftz-indu ... crimp-tool

For wire and cable, I tend to use Ancor, which is tinned, stranded marine wire (primary wire, battery cable, X/2 or X/3), and for heat shrink for the big lugs (which are just tinned copper and have no shrink of their own), FTZ Dual-Wall heat shrink.