OPTIMA
Yellow Top D31A or Yellow Top D31T (personally I am not interested in this "Thin" top post model) or Blue Top D31M - Internally all supposedly the same. All have the same specs:
Cold Cranking Amps = 900
Amp Hours = 75 Ah rating C/20
Cycles = 350 at a 100 minute reserve capacity
See attached pdf spec sheets including pages following warranty spec sheet.
All cost about $220 each with free shipping on Amazon.
BajaSportsmobile may be on to something (as usual) with the Yellow Tops, see warranty info below:
Yellow Tops have a
36 Month free replacement warranty.
Blue Tops have a
24 Month free replacement warranty.
EDIT: While the foregoing is true as to the other Yellow Tops, the D31A and D31T Yellow Tops have the same 24 month warranty as the Blue Top D31M.
Additionally in "SERIES STRING APPLICATIONS WITH APPROVED BATTERY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM" (i.e., increasng voltage but keeping Ah the same) the warranties for both Yellow and Blue are reduced to 12 months and only to 1 month if the series application does use an "approved battery management system."
But we wouldn't use a "series string application" on the starting side most of us wouldn't use a series string application on the house-side. To keep the output at 12v and only to increase Amp hours, we would use a
parallel string application. So would that bump the warranty back up to 24 months for the Yellow Top D31A and D31T and Blue Top D31M?
See attached warranty sheet pdf.
Rumor is Yellow Tops are made in America.
Rumor is Blue Tops are made in Mexico.
For house-side:
75 Ah x 4 = 300 Ah
59.8 lbs ea x 4 = 239.2 lbs
75 Ah x 3 = 225 Ah
59.8 lbs ea x 3 = 179.4 lbs.
My existing Universal Battery UB8D 250 Ah 12v Model 122500 167 lbs $485.57 + $97.92 shipping. Warranty is 12 months.
http://www.amazon.com/UPG-45964-Ub-8d-S ... B000RNY6P0
Review re Yellow Top D31A use as starting batteries on 7.3L:
"I have had a pair of these Optima D31A's in my old 7.3 Powerstroke for 4 years now and have not had any problems. Even when the glow plugs weren't working last winter and it took lots of cranking to start. When its time to change the batteries in my 6.0 I will be getting another pair of these for it. They are well worth the price and will outlast any lead acid battery out there."
http://www.amazon.com/Optima-Batteries- ... B00099VM9U
This is an interesting Amazon review comparing a true deep cycle battery (flooded golf cart batteries not AGM) with an Optima AGM:
“Big Giant Head says:
For a UPS, I'd actually venture to guess you'd have better luck with that Optima. Wet cells usually have a higher Peukart number, and AGM are lower. So when you draw a heavy load, a wet cell that's 100AH will not give you all that energy, the battery will "die" before it's given you all 100AH. Remove the load, let it "recover" (for up to a couple hours), and you can then sap the remaining power once the chemical processes catch up. For a car this can be nice, because you have a chance to start a battery that's "dead" if you let it recover. For a UPS or other critical (high) load, your equipment will stop functioning even before the battery is half-dead in some cases. An AGM will give you nearly 100% before the voltage falls to a dead-battery level, and for a UPS, 99 times out of 100 this is desired because you don't want to shut down your equipment. With an AGM, once it's dead, it's dead - very unlikely you can get anything more from that battery without a recharge. For a guy with a Jeep in the middle of the woods that was running the radio all day - an AGM may be a bad thing - if you were expecting that battery to bounce back after the lights and radio died off. But if you were in the middle of the woods blaring the radio all day - what were you thinking in the first place??? A wet-cell offers the "advantage" that Mr. Jeep sees the lights dimming, and kills the power - lets it sit for 2 hours, and it may actually have enough to start the engine.
So in my case, a single (7 year old) 75AH Optima D31T Yellow Top, under a 150 Amp load, outperformed two (brand new) 225AH wet-cells in parallel. Yeah, I'm serious! Yes, the wet cells have more capacity had I allowed them to recover. But to have to shut down my equipment for 15 minutes, to allow the batteries to "recover" for 2 hours isn't acceptable in my application. When using the Optima, I was able to run my inverter for a longer continuous draw before the voltage fell beyond 11.4V. So the inverter would run longer before shutting down on that single Optima - BUT, I would not be able to run it again without charging it back up. The wet cells - did allow me to run again post-recovery, that said, it was for less than 15 minutes at a time. Worth mentioning that the wet cells weighed 4 times more, and actually cost the same considering I had 4 6V 220AH wet cells up against a single 12V D31T. No, I don't work for these guys, I even detested this brand 7 years ago for their highway-robbery pricing. Since then, I've done a complete 180, Optima isn't the "Monster-Cable" equivalent of the battery industry, whereas a 300 dollar HDMI cable works no better than a 7 dollar Amazon variant - the Yellow Tops do perform differently from standard deep cycle wet cells.”
http://www.amazon.com/review/R2H5GOLBCN ... hisHelpful
Warranty sheet pdf attached. Yellow Top D31T and D31A spec sheets pdf attached.
Blue Top D31M spec sheet pdf attached.