Battery Isolators,Separators, and Switches? - Page 10

**daveb** · 04-12-2014, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coyotearms

Wouldn't it be better to just put one of those nice high current Blue Sea switches across the separator as a back up? Depending on the space available and the kind of cable (lugs on each end that need a wrench to make a safe connection or hefty clamps like on jumper cables or a jumper cable) in tight spaces could be a bit problematic with sparks flying around as the current could be substantial before tuning over the engine depending on what the problem is.

I bought one but never installed it. My plan was to wire it with an inline fuse (400A) so if the chassis batteries are dead due to a short hopefully the fuse would blow. My issue with SMB's standard install is they use too small of wire and trying to crank a starter as well as supplying the current the dead batteries want might melt down the buss wire. After I got rid of the Surepower I never had an issue with the new 7622 so the switch got put in the tool box. My 7622 is configured not to jump start during ignition. Fortunately I haven't had the opportunity use the house system to jump start the van. If I do I will let the separator sit in the combine state for several minutes so the starting batteries come up a bit. One of these days I do plan to upgrade the wire between the starting batteries and the separator. when I do I might parallel the switch in as a backup.

TAlvarez · 09-16-2014, 01:06 AM

Great thread, especially for electrical rookie like myself!

With that said, I'm in the midst of planning my 12v system and gathering parts. All points lead to the Blue Sea 7620/22 Separator's, but what about Inverters.
Can anyone offer any suggestions on reliable brands for a 1000 watt portable inverter that can be hard wired with a 12v system?
Let me know w/ thanks and if it's already mentioned in the thread please point me to it and I will study as needed.

Thanks
BT

coyotearms · 09-16-2014, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TAlvarez

Great thread, especially for electrical rookie like myself!

Let me know w/ thanks and if it's already mentioned in the thread please point me to it and I will study as needed.

Thanks
BT

Go bigger, get an inverter/charger, get sinusoidal waveform. Do more homework---use the search button ---you should find lots on this topic. . .

**daveb** · 09-16-2014, 01:10 PM

Yes try using "inverter" in the search and see what you find. To tell the truth I'd search the web. Inverters keep changing and I'm not up to date on the best models. Maybe a new van owner can chime in but there are some things to consider:

A pure sinewave inverter is always better but many can get by with a modified sinewave inverter. Depends on what you want/need to run. The charger should have a "smart" type charger built in though. Also one with a control panel that allows you to read numerical values in amps and volts is a huge advantage for trouble shooting purposes. If you don't want to go that route, a good flush mounted battery monitor is highly recommended to supplement an inverter that just has idiot lights. You can also have a small backup or mini inverter to power small devices that don't require a pure sinewave and need only minimal amperage to run. Just having an inverter running pulls power even if it isn't running anything. The bigger the inverter, the more standby power it pulls. So if you power up a big 3000 watt inverter to charge a small item like a phone it's a waste of power. A small plug in type mini inverter works just fine and won't suck down your battery reserves as quickly. Size the inverter to your largest load you plan to use. No sense paying for a 5000 watt inverter when the most you'll ever use is 2000. Seems most people go between 1500-2500 watts. Always go bigger than your max load and figure if you are running a specific sized microwave it will pull a bit more than the stated number. Always figure for combined load as well.

rustypayne · 09-16-2014, 05:50 PM

I'm still gathering material to rework my electrical but I'm planning to install two inverters. The larger one 1500-2000 watt pure sine wave will be turned off when not actually needed to save my batteries and then a small cheapie 300 watt inverter that can be left on to charge phones, plug in a radio and things like that.

jage · 09-22-2014, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rustypayne

a small cheapie 300 watt

I've used a 150w cigarette lighter plug in inverter to charge cells for many years now. For my main I have a 2000w pure sine, the pure sine is overkill in my opinion, but the wattage is not- I've got a few smaller inverters that have been installed here and there (I put one under the tractor seat

) and nothing is worse than firing up an electric tool and having it go "Nope!" and shut down.

As mentioned in the thread, inverters get better all the time, I'd just look for good price and high watts if I was starting from scratch.

BrianW · 10-03-2014, 11:29 AM

Trying to wade through this thread and others, but am just getting more confused. I have a Sure Power 1602 isolator, installed (I assume) by SMB-Indiana back when they built the van in 1998. It's not giving me any issues - that I know of - but I figured it would be worthwhile to proactively upgrade it, as technology has changed a lot in the past 16 years!

I'm reading about isolators vs. separators, and whether or not to have the ability to use the house batteries to boost the starting batteries. That feature would be nice, but not 100% required.

So what is the recommendation nowadays for replacing an old Sure Power 1602 isolator? Stick with Sure Power (looks like they still make the 1602), or go with an isolator like the Sure Power 1315 or a Blue Sea or something? Should I go with one that's 100a or 200a capable? (I read the previous discussion, and it sounds like the 100a version would be ok).

I have a gasser engine with just the one battery. House batteries are 3xGroup 27 AGM batteries @315ah total. I have the stock Ford alternator. No solar yet, but I plan to add 2x100w panels soon, I hope.

Thanks!

**daveb** · 10-03-2014, 11:51 AM

Swapping to a separator might be more costly but you can mount it in the engine compartment. It's not the best spot though. A cleaner drier area is better plus some have manual controls so a place with easy access is usually a better choice. The advantage of a separator is that it gives you the option of charging the starting battery system from a secondary source like a shore power charger, generator or solar system. It also can be used to jump start the vehicle (depending on the model) but the buss wire between the house battery and starting battery needs to be taken into account. [Edit] Starting amperage to turn over a vehicle can be quite high so like the buss, the separator needs to be rated for higher current than a typical isolator which generally only supplies a lower charge current. That is why most vehicles use 200a+ rated separator models. Might want to read this Brian:

https://www.bluesea.com/articles/58

BrianW · 10-03-2014, 01:02 PM

^^Thanks. Didn't realize that separators need to be in a dry environment. All things being equal, I'd prefer to keep it in the same location (under the hood on the right, back side of engine compartment, under the coolant reservoir) and not have to rewire.

**daveb** · 10-03-2014, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianW

^^Thanks. Didn't realize that separators need to be in a dry environment.

Depends on the model/make. Most including the Surepower separators are supposed to be sealed but SMB thought one of the problems they were having (with the Surepower) had to do with dampness. You can always check the specs. Many are designed for marine use. Even though mine were never exposed to water I had a lot of trouble with them. It was a corrosion issue.