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Old 02-18-2020, 10:28 PM   #201
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Thank you for this helpful article. I am experiencing a new issue with my SMB pop-top motors. Previously, my isolator was connected to my alternator. Now my isolator is connected directly to my van battery. Ever since it was connected to my van battery, the only way I can pop the top or use the lights in the pop-top is if I have the van on. Those features no longer work when the van is off like they used to. Any recommendations for this issue?

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Old 02-19-2020, 05:59 AM   #202
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You would need to be more specific on what type of isolator you are using? A diode isolator goes between the alternator and both batteries, a relay based isolator would just go from the battery.


In any advent that really shouldn't matter as the connection that could cause the problem would be at the other end. Did the change in wiring also include changes in the back? As that would be where the real culprit would be. All other functions of this change have checked out?

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Old 07-06-2020, 06:20 AM   #203
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updated version of this thread starts here Battery Isolators, Separators, Switches & More (updated 2020)
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Old 10-24-2021, 11:38 AM   #204
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House Batteries Removed for Winter - Separator Clicking

I have a 2006 Dodge Sprinter SM which I bought used in TX. Generally I drive the van all year but this year it's going to be in storage for up to 6 months. Therefore I was going to remove the house batteries and put them on a trickle charger. When I disconnected the house batteries yesterday, I started getting a clicking noise which I suspect is from the battery separator. The separator is located under the driver seat which is a pain to remove. I'm not sure what brand and if its has the option to bypass the house batteries. Are there other solutions besides disconnecting the start battery?
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Old 10-25-2021, 06:53 AM   #205
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If you have a power source at your storage location then don't disconnect or remove house batteries. Connect your trickle charger to the battery in your engine compartment.
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Old 10-25-2021, 08:45 AM   #206
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Unfortunately, they don't have AC power in the unit. It turns out they removed the outlets to discourage people from living in the units. Thanks.
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Old 10-25-2021, 09:03 AM   #207
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I would expect that you have a surepower separator based on the year. Is it the same clicking (the separator is more of a clunk, the BlueSea is a even louder clunk) that you hear when the unit was connected. Both units usually have a lock out if one of the voltages is low (or in this case missing).

In any event both of this units can be disabled by pulling the ground. I expect you have to pull the seat to due that.

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Old 10-25-2021, 11:11 AM   #208
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I've contacted SM to get more info and left a message but they haven't responded. My past experience with their customer service hasn't been great as I purchased a used rig although I did spend a chunk of change on having it refurbished. Could just be me... lol.


I will pull batteries out later today and remove the seat to access the separator. Hopefully before the storm that's pounding the west coast hits here in SLC.



Many Thanks for your advice and quick replies! Much better service than SM!!!
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Old 10-25-2021, 03:50 PM   #209
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You do not have to disconnect the separator. Sprinter has an engine battery disconnect switch on the right side next to the accelerator pedal. Check your Sprinter manual.
https://www.google.com/search?q=spri..._0PEP2dyjqAg18
The best way is to take your Sprinter out of the storage once a month, drive 50 miles, or park in your drive and connect to shore power overnight. I have two 110 Amp-Hr batteries ant this method works fine.
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Old 10-25-2021, 04:00 PM   #210
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https://www.google.com/search?q=spri..._0PEP2dyjqAg18
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