Dash Power Clean Up

[Scalf77]

I was documenting some of the changes I have made along the way in preparation for selling my SMB. I never liked the 12 awg wire going to the CB in the overhead console, the CB has long since be changed, I added various USB chargers or more 12 volt Aux ports to the dash, rearview camera , Tire Pressure system. I also have a bunch of switches to connect and disconnect various devices for the electrical system. The drawing looks like this:




I have three sources of power:

Always on house - While the main battery can be disconnected, I still have a always on circuit. I use this for the CO and Propane sensor, and control solenoids to connect and disconnect battery.

Van Battery Power This is controlled by a relay, I could have just used the radio circuit, but wanted more current capability. The existing radio wire is what picks the relay. So essentially it is the same, just more current.

House Battery PowerThis is used for devices that I want running off of the house battery, like USB chargers.

The second relay gives me a a switched source of power. This is my version of the SMB radio switch. Things that I want on when running, or switched on with the radio switch.

I put this all in the metal section under the driver side dash.

Side view:


Relays and Always on power:


Top View


I have the three voltage sources and grd coming in on 1 4 pin Deutsch DTP connector.

I have 6 pin Deutsch DT connector that provide power to the overhead console.

and a 12 pin Deutsch DT connector for various devices in the dash area.

All three of these connectors can disconnected and the part removed cleanly.

-greg

[bigriver]

Super clean and well thought out... nice work Greg!

[marret]

+1. Looks great, I’m sure works well, very nice. Thanks for posting.

[JWA]

Having done some of my own switched and fuse protected supplemental wiring I love how you tucked the extra bits in the lower metal brace--would have never thought to utilize those areas.

Like yourself I've used the radio keyed power to trigger relays for my schemes---that's a convenient and easily accessible point to tap into.

Very well done sir---thanks for sharing!

[Ben10281]

Scalf,
Can you help me understand the relay setup?

I am very uneducated in such things so please feel free to steer me back in the right direction where I might go wrong.

As I look at it, the relays seem to work this way:

When key is turned to run/accessory position the purple wire is energized and this connects the yellow wire on the N/O pin to the red wire on the common pin. The yellow wire is power straight off of the van's starting battery. This then sends power over to the second relay on the left to the N/C pin which is connected to the common pin, which is connected to the fuse block. So when the key is turned to run/accessory you have power going to TPMS/radio powerx2/Rearview camera, correct?

Now, if the key is in the OFF position, but the radio switch is flipped on, then the grey wire is energized and this connects the N/O pin with the common pin which means the fuse block powering the TPMS and others is getting power from the van house battery.

Am I understanding that correctly?

[Scalf77]

Yes, I think you have it.

-greg

[Ben10281]

Cool thanks!

[ShuttlePilot]

Nice work Greg. I sure wish I had whatever heat shrink label maker you have.

Also I recognize you having the high standards to use a dedicated grounding bus bar.



- Eric

[JWA]

Originally Posted by ShuttlePilot

Nice work Greg. I sure wish I had whatever heat shrink label maker you have.
- Eric

Yeah, me too!

What brand printer is the Scalf77?

[Scalf77]

I have the DYMO XTL 300 printer. I am sure if someone wanted some custom labels I could figure out the cost of material per label. They are light so shipping should be the cost of a letter.

greg