DIY Battery Cable Terminals

[JWA]

Not sure anyone else here is into heavier gauge wire solderless terminating but recently found what seem like decent quality hydraulic hand operated crimping tools, brand of Dorf. Here's a couple of eBay links: http://www.ebay.com/itm/161731929833...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT and leverage only version: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-ter...-/181725257462

Affordable and look to be quite usable without a steep learning curve. There are a few nice YouTube videos showing these types tools in action---worth a look if only for curiosity.

[Viva]

Hopefully this adds to the thread vs. hijacking it (which is not my intention), but I'll just mention that I have a heavy crimper I really like. I've used it for three or four full re-wires, so many hundreds of crimps. It will crimp #8 to 4/0 terminals (only power lugs in the #8 size though, not the smaller starter lugs).

It does cost around $200, which just proves the value of the eBay ones if they also do the job. I knew I was going to be using mine a lot, so just ponied up (because, hey, it's a tool, lasts a lifetime, etc. ... right? , but of course it all depends. Horses for courses

I purposely went with the less expensive non-ratcheting version because in small spaces (hello, boats and vans!) the ratcheting feature can be a bit of a problem. I use the FTZ power lugs most of the time, and their smaller starter lugs occasionally. Here is just one source, for example (but it can be bought elsewhere too).

http://www.fisheriessupply.com/ftz-indu ... crimp-tool

[TeleSteve]

I have had this one for a while and made around 50 crimps with it. I feel it was definitely worth the cost.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GXQ2E ... ZD4UYJQQH7

[JWA]

Originally Posted by Viva

Hopefully this adds to the thread vs. hijacking it (which is not my intention), but I'll just mention that I have a heavy crimper I really like. I've used it for three or four full re-wires, so many hundreds of crimps. It will crimp #8 to 4/0 terminals (only power lugs in the #8 size though, not the smaller starter lugs).

Excellent contribution Viva----not a bit of the highjacking or derailing nature. In fact if we open this discussion and receive in-hand real-world experiences and recommendations that's perfect.

I do use nothing but the ratcheting type crimping tools mostly because at one point in my work career QA of high voltage/high amperage conductor terminating was was part of my duties. While I remain steadfast recommending soldering for most any electrical connection crimped connections when done properly are a close second to achieving solid and high quality terminations.

As shown here already prices do range quite a bit, some of the "better" or professional tools running $1200 or more just for the tool alone----dies sold separately naturally. I'm always a bit suspect of longevity of the lower priced tools but as TeleSteve suggests his choice has worked well so far.

My interest in the hydraulic-actuated crimpers is the thought holding the terminal and wire in place while crimping is in process is much easier than multi-tasking where holding the tool in place along with the terminal and wire too can lead to poorly made terminations. This has been my experience with crimping wire rope swage sleeves with the plier-type tools. Mind you that's just my experience, not necessarily dismissing that type tooling.

I do like the idea of tooling that can/does effect a repeatable result, one that doesn't heavily rely depend an operators experience or "feel" for good connections.

This is all just my approach----good results can be achieved by many methods.

[Viva]

Glad to hear you didn't feel the thread was hijacked.

In boats crimps (properly done!) are considered to a be a bit superior to soldering, because (the theory goes) soldering can cause a hard spot that vibration can then fatigue. ABYC (American Boat and Yacht Council who set the guidelines for minimum best practice) will allow soldering, but with the caveat that it has to be physically supported within X distance of the solder joint (closer distance than the usual support distance for wiring, whereas with crimps the usual distance is fine).

I do hear you on the "five hands" required for the plier style crimpers. I have usually enlisted a buddy (which was not hard since we were often working on their rig) to help. I suppose with a vise it could work solo but that supposes all cables are made on a bench and that is not the case in real life.

That was actually one of my main "brain crunchers" when doing these jobs: What order to make the crimps so that I wouldn't get painted into a corner someplace where I could not fit the crimper and/or use the heat gun (adhesive heat-shrink tubing). It all worked out but there were some schemes complicated enough that I wrote them down. e.g Pull wire through over-length, make crimp, pull other end out to side, make crimp, pull back, then... etc. etc.

Fun times

PS: While I wouldn't think my crimper is the equivalent of a $1200 Amp (which I've never actually used), it is very heavy duty, you can adjust it if it needs it (mine never has), and the dies are built in (they rotate into place so can't be lost). It is big though. Maybe 24" long or so? (Don't have it to hand.)

[JWA]

Originally Posted by Viva

Glad to hear you didn't feel the thread was hijacked.

In boats crimps (properly done!) are considered to a be a bit superior to soldering, because (the theory goes) soldering can cause a hard spot that vibration can then fatigue. ABYC (American Boat and Yacht Council who set the guidelines for minimum best practice) will allow soldering, but with the caveat that it has to be physically supported within X distance of the solder joint (closer distance than the usual support distance for wiring, whereas with crimps the usual distance is fine).

Viva our threads here on SMB tend to drift or evolve anyway, the added bits often times adding to the knowledge base. Most of us come to vanning from other walks, often times experiences there serving us well in new endeavors.

I fully agree about soldering and the vibration prone resulting connections---I've personally created wire connections with huge changes in cross section diameter that have failed due the conductor itself becoming the weak link and shaking apart. Nothing like soldering a 20 gauge wire into a 10-12 gauge terminal and wonder why that circuit failed----the 1/2 pound of solder being a small clue......... (<<<Exaggeration for effect, not really using that much solder!)

Supporting and securing wires inside a vehicle is vastly more important than most would believe---once again the aircraft and boating industries being great examples of how to wire things properly. Good to have you aboard with your knowledge.

[E350]

A little cross-fertilization. Check out the video JWA linked here:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/14066 ... ies-2.html

[JWA]

Originally Posted by E350

A little cross-fertilization. Check out the video JWA linked here:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/14066 ... ies-2.html

All are welcome, even cross fertilizers! I should be flattered I'm cross quoted huh?

Just to further pull us afield I've recently referred several new FTE members here to SMB because they had questions more inline with the topics presented here. Its kinda sad Internet Brands who owns FTE along with several other website/forum concerns frowns on public mention of sites like SMB so I do my referrals via PM's. Its not like we here will sap all the viewers & visitors away---share a bit huh Internet Brands?

More to the crimper point though here's a great deal on a Harbor Freight tool: http://www.ebay.com/itm/231765649246...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT At that cost its pretty much a throw away tool first time it even hiccups during a crimp.

[ert01]

For large gauge wiring I've always crimped the end on, then filled the connection with solder and finally, I finish it off with some good thick adhesive lined heatshrink.

My thought process is that the mechanical crimp is the critical method of connecting. Then, the solder fills any voids that are remaining against water ingress and provides a level of corrosion resistance. The heatshrink also helps seal the conductors, but also provides a bit of extra ridgidity to the cable where the solder joint is and helps to prevent stress at the solder area.

[Pntyrmvr]

My thoughts exactly. Living in a salt encrusted winter environment I can attest to that 3 step process. I've never had one fail.

Jinxed myself here I suppose.

Regards,

Gavin