DIY Ravelco?

[JWA]

Originally Posted by arctictraveller

I’m installing my Ravelco today and I’m thinking about this. Could you expand a bit on how the shift lever lockout works and the location of the solenoid?
Thanks….

The shift interlock solenoid is used to keep the shift lever from being moved out of Park and/or from Neutral to Drive or Reverse---it will not move out of Park, Reverse or any of the Drive positions unless the brake pedal is depressed. This solenoid is at the bottom of the mounted steering column and works extremely well as an accidental gear engagement without a conscious effort being made to select a gear. It can be seen here in the outlined area:

There is a single wire from the Central Junction Box (inside fuse panel) to the solenoid---when/if its fuse is open you cannot shift from Park or Neutral into any gear.

IF the Raveloc had the third channel I mentioned this would be a fantastic circuit to interrupt as yet one more way to thwart would be thieves. Sadly the Ravelco's we have do not have that third channel. If we disable the starter circuit and inertia switch circuit that should be enough to dissuade crooks to run away.

If you have an EVTM that entire circuit is on its own page(s) in that document.

HTH

[doublevan2]

I've ordered one as well --

[BrianBlair]

For $100 I couldn't resist. I'll let you all know how it goes.

BB

[boywonder]

Originally Posted by JWA

HTH

...On another subject......is there a straightforward way to eliminate the slop in the PRNDL lever??

[JWA]

Originally Posted by boywonder

...On another subject......is there a straightforward way to eliminate the slop in the PRNDL lever??

Yes, see these areas:



Green box, base of actual shift lever, red arrows oft-mentioned shift tube bushings and yellow arrow pointing to shift lever detent plate. Over time they each wear enough to become sloppy feeling.

Detent plate closer:



The shift lever detent plate and/or shift tube bushing straps can also work themselves loose so that should be checked.

HTH

[desertsherpa]

I just disassembled a cheap $100 ravelco that I bought online.
It appears it was manufactured incorrectly, and the cap did not match the receiver. (The codes also don't match on either)

I fixed mine, however, I have come to a realization. That the ravelco is extremely similar to a waterproof bulkhead connector, with a fancy potted cap, and unpopulated lugs in all the other places.

Such as this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJftESfqTsc

Now mine is re-assembled, and I've made a pin mapping for god forbid the event I loose both of my grey-market caps.

[boywonder]

Those fancy amphenol-type connectors that you have pictured above ain't cheap.....and by the time you buy the contacts and crimpers you may be better off having a Ravelco installed.


And the "cap" connector will have a few wires loops hanging off the back of it...a bit larger in your pocket for sure.


They are much higher quality then a plastic molded Ravelco though.....


I'm surprised that you got incorrect caps........that's a PITA....glad you sorted it out.

[desertsherpa]

The ravelco is also plastic, the advantage to roll your own is you can make your own "plugs" indefinitely.

https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Co...07BLT68PB?th=1

[arctictraveller]

I also considered making my own using bulkhead connectors but by the time it was assembled, some sort of tamper proof enclosure was made to protect the wires in back, and a suitable key chain cap was made, it was far cheaper, faster and easier to just buy one of the EBay ones. But, I agree, you could make your own that would be just as effective and you could also add more circuits.

[unreng]

for anyone considering a diy project, found these instructions on another website:

Installation Instructions, Ravelco Anti-Theft Device

Installation of the Ravelco Anti-theft device is fairly simple, and can be completed in less than one hour for most applications.

Equipment Needed for Installation:
1- Electric Drill
2- Drill Bit, 1/2" (13mm)
3- 1-1/8" (29mm) hole saw (optional for in-dash mount)
4- Wire crimping tool and electrical connectors for wire splices, ground eyelet
5- Electrical tape, wire (zip) ties
6- Black RTV or Petroleum based Body Tar sealant
7- Automotive Wire Loom / Flex Tubing (optional)
8- Sheet metal screws
9- Wiring diagram for installation vehicle
10- Screw driver
11- Channel locks or large pliers

Installation:

Before you start your installation, there are some important things to observe. All of the wires that come out of the rear of the Ravelco are black. This is so that a thief cannot match color-coding to bypass the unit. There are a total of five wires. The shortest wire is a ground wire. It is critical that this wire is attached to the body of the vehicle for the Ravelco to work properly. You will observe two longer wires with white tabs on the end, and two wires without these tabs. DO NOT remove the tabs from the wires until the installation is complete, those two wires are a matched set.

1- Determine if you want to mount your Ravelco under the automobile dash or in the automobile dash. Under dash is easier, but in dash is less obvious and slightly more secure. With either installation, the armored cable will prevent any thief from getting to the critical wiring.
2- In Dash: Determine the location of the installation, paying special attention to the wiring and supports behind the proposed location. You will be using the Hole Saw to cut a hole in your dash, so make sure that you have the correct location. Before installing through dash, remove rear mounting nut and then remove the "L" bracket used for under dash mounting. Thread wires and armored cable through the hole previously cut in the dash, and then reinstall rear mounting nut over wires and armored cable from under the dash. Tighten the rear mounting nut with a pair of channel locks or a large pair of pliers.
3- Under Dash: Pick a location that will not interfere with your entering or exiting the vehicle, or will not interfere with normal operation of the vehicle. Some installations are done in the glove box to hide the Ravelco from casual view. To hang the Ravelco, remove the "L" bracket (step 2) and use the holes in the attached bracket as a template for drilling two small holes to attach with sheet metal screws. Reinstall the Ravelco in the mounting bracket.
4- From your installation location in the vehicle, visualize a straight line back to the firewall. This is the path that your armored cable will travel. You will need to drill a hole in the firewall with the 1/2" (13mm) drill bit to feed the armored cable through. Make sure to pick a location that you can reach with the drill while the bit is attached. Also be aware of anything that might be on the outside of the firewall, in the engine compartment.
5- After mounting your Ravelco, and drilling your hole in the firewall, carefully run the wires and armored cable through the hole. The easiest way to secure the cable is to use a wire tie on the outside of the firewall, installing it after you pull the cable snug. Wrapping the cable in electrical tape, or using a hose clamp can also accomplish this. My personal preference is the wire tie, as it is easier to remove if necessary. After securing the cable, use Black RTV or body tar to seal around the cable to stop any moisture from getting inside the vehicle.


The Ravelco is a system interrupt device, which means that it will cut two critical circuits needed for vehicle operation. The identification of the correct wires to interrupt is critical. These circuits can be anything that is low current, preferably something that is disabling. Suggestions are: Fuel injection control (as long as it is not the CPU power), fuel control from the fuel pump, ignition control (hot lead to distributor), and starter.

You must identify the wires to two of these circuits, and then follow the wires back into the wiring harness after splitting the harness. The reason for tracing the wire back into the harness is so that the splice connections that you make can be easily hidden from casual observation.

From experience, the two easiest to find are usually the fuel injection power, and the ignition power lines. It's important to trace and splice into the hot wires, and not the ground wires. Some circuits will ground from the connection as well as a wire, so splicing into the ground wire is not as secure.

Once you have identified the correct wire, you will need to cut it, and splice the long black wires into the circuit. Use either the wires with or without the white tabs, but don't mix them. Then identify the second wire to be cut and repeat the process with the other long black wire pair.

That's all there is to it, the Ravelco is active, and the vehicle should not start without the plug installed in the socket.

The last step is to hide your work. Do this by hiding the spliced wires back in the original wire loom. Wrap any exposed wire and the reinforced cable in electrical tape so that it looks like any other wiring circuit under the hood. If you want to, purchase a length of wire loom from the auto parts store, and hide the reinforced cable and wires coming from the firewall with this to make it look like the rest of the wiring in the car.

If you have any questions, feel free to email me at dennispro@hotmail.com and I will answer you as quickly as possible.

Dennis

we'll go the Maven route as that will allow more adaptability.