Getting frustrated... - Page 3

**BroncoHauler** · 08-13-2014, 05:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daveb

... I also thought of adding a set of capped remote lugs to be able to jump folks in the field w/o fear of messing with my engine electronics. It's a good idea.

I think someone on the forum was planning on using a high amperage Anderson Powerpole connector for their winch, and if needed, they would disconnect the winch and on the battery side they would plug in a corresponding Powerpole that had a cable with battery clamps to use as a jumper cable. Though that was a fairly elegant solution.

Herb

Scalf77 · 08-13-2014, 06:41 AM

I was hoping from your previous description of seeing some increase of voltage while the running was a sign that you might have a chance. You can charge the batteries with a charger, or just swap them with new, it is your money and time constraint. I would just start with the house battery, sounds like you might have life in the starters.

My worry is what got you to where you are, it may be just sitting ran everything down. (this is the most likely scenario) Or signs of other issues such as bad separator, TrippLite, Alternator, etc. So if you replace the house battery you are going to have to monitor it very closely. I am not a fan of the plug in meters but if it what you have, make sure you have two. When running you will want to monitor both batteries, when the separator closes both batteries should go to the same voltage as they are now in parallel. (this was sticky point in your data, but also the van batteries have to go above a certain voltage for the separator to close (13.2 to 13.4) and that is going to be at the separator terminal so it might not match exactly the monitor you have. When the batteries go above this voltage you should hear the separator close, that is when you should see some voltage change on both batteries as they should now be in parallel to each other. A heavy enough load in the house system, might bring the starter below 12.8 volts and disconnect. On my 2004 V10, I can not run the AC and Starcool on high at idle and keep the separator closed, the alternator is just not able to put enough out.

A primary failing mode of the separator as with any relay is to stick closed, this does not sound like your issue.

A secondary issue is internal contact resistance inside the relay contacts, this has been reported multiple times in the forum, it is not uncommon with high current relays, I have seen this myself. It will appear to close but the resistance built up in the contacts will not allow a good charge to go pass.

And of course it could get stuck open, or for that matter controller circuit could have gone bad.

Based on the year of your van I would not be surprised if the separator has a issue (if it is the original Sure-Power 1315)

There are laundry list of other possible issues, could be loose connections, the proverbial bad ground.

Your starcool issues are most likely related to your rear battery, as the blowers and control circuits all run off of 12 volts (Even when plugged in the compressor is pretty much the only thing that runs on 110).

It would also be nice to get a DVM Digital Voltmeter and measure voltage directly at the battery, which based on location could be a pain in the ^(*(.

-greg

Scalf77 · 08-13-2014, 06:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1der

Maybe a dumb question from someone who does not have the SMB set up:

Is there a remote set of charging points for the house battery?

Dave,, I think this is what you mean by hooking up a regular 10 to 15 Amp Battery charger to the the lugs on the separator? Just wanting to confirm. It seems like the battery terminals on the house batteries are inaccessible when installed, right?

When I installed my house batteries on the frame rail, I made sure to put a charging/jumping set of terminals mounted on the frame as well with easy access so I could hook up a trickle charger to the house batteries, if necessary. Seems like this should be standard SMB set up?

I have always thought of adding that (power pole connections) whenever I pull the battery down again. Since sportsmobiles have a house battery charger hooked up, it could be considered redundant. That doesn't make it a bad idea, but there would be the extra cost, so I can see why it is not standard. In ten years I have not needed it, still I like the idea.

-greg

kurtdog · 08-21-2014, 10:41 AM

Thanks again gentlemen. This has been quite the educational experience. Together we have managed to get me through it without breaking any windows or setting anything on fire. You guys are the greatest.

In the end, both of my truck batteries and the house battery all needed to be replaced. Most all problems solved. Although my local mechanic never wants to see the truck again after the effort required to replace the batteries :-)

Still having AC failure, but on my way to an AC shop right now. I'll come back to you guys if I can't figure it out.

PS. One of you guys need to create an Iphone app and capture all of your knowledge :-)

Cheers, Kurt

BrianW · 08-21-2014, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kurtdog

PS. One of you guys need to create an Iphone app and capture all of your knowledge :-)

Cheers, Kurt

Already have one: install Tapatalk forum reader!

finn · 08-23-2014, 09:46 AM

I feel your pain I just went through basically the same thing. I have an 06 6 ltr as well, my two starting batteries are on the passenger side frame rail and the house battery is under the backside of the van. My house battery was very low and nothing worked including not being able to reset my gfi. Plugging it into shore power did nothing. When the van was running I could get some things to work like some of the house lights but nothing else. It appeared that I had multiple problems. Since the van had the original 9 year old batteries I replaced the house battery and the starting batteries even though the van started, I figured they were not far from dying and I didn't want to get stranded in the mountains with two 4 year olds and a hormonal wife.

I replaced the house battery with a ub4d battery that I found on Apex Batteries they had the best price and lowest shipping, a little over $400. The original battery was a lifeline and the cheapest I could find that for was over $700 plus shipping. It is impressive how long the battery lasted but $700 was too steep for me. I replaced the starting batteries with Napa AGM batteries, another $400. Don't try changing any of these batteries unless you have decent mechanical skills and a transmission jack.

As soon as I installed the new house battery everything worked. I did learn form Sportsmobile that you should turn your inverter off when the van is sitting in storage also pull the smoke detector battery when not in use.

Hope this helps

finn · 08-23-2014, 09:47 AM

Oops didn't see your last post. You already fixed it

Scalf77 · 08-25-2014, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by finn

I did learn form Sportsmobile that you should turn your inverter off when the van is sitting in storage also pull the smoke detector battery when not in use.

Hope this helps

I find it good practice to only turn the inverter to on, when I need to run a 110 plugin while not plugged in. Leaving it on will burn some power just in standby mode.

-greg