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Old 03-19-2022, 07:42 AM   #1
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Guide to Ford Van Upfitter Switches

I've been searching the web for info on using my factory-installed Upfitter Switches on my 2011 E250 E-Series. There is a lot of info out there but it can be confusing because it's often mixed in with other content. This post is specific about FACTORY INSTALLED Upfitter Switches, not about adding the Upfitter Switches after the fact. The Ford upfitter switches are optional instrument panel mounted switches (Option Code 52S) that activate powered wires located in the engine compartment to power auxillary equipment (air compressor, light bar, etc.). Pretty sure most year vans with the switches would be the same, or very similar, but I can't guarantee it.

Upfitter Switches have both an associated fuse and a relay, which are housed in the fuse/relay box at the driver's side front of the engine compartment. The fuses and relays should already be installed if you have the switches factory installed.

A useful fuse/relay chart: https://www.autogenius.info/ford-e-s...x-diagram/amp/

The actual wires to tap into are in the engine compartment as shown, toward the firewall on the driver's side. They are "blunt cut" stubs and capped. There are four wires for the switches, but they are there with other blunt-capped wires (as an aside, anyone know what the other ones are for?). Find the four wires based on the color chart below

Switches Circuit # Wire Color Fuse Size
Aux 1 CAC05 Yellow 30A
Aux 2 CAC06 Green/Brown 30A
Aux 3 CAC07 Violet/Green 10A
Aux 4 CAC08 Brown 15A

The Upfitter Switches are operational when the ignition key is in the "RUN" position only. The power to the switches is relay controlled and was designed to operate in the "RUN" mode to reduce the possibility of draining the chassis battery.
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Upfitter3.jpg   Upfitter4.jpg   Upfitter5.jpg   Upfitter1.jpg   Upfitter2.jpg  


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Old 03-19-2022, 08:39 AM   #2
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Addendum: see the thread below to understand what the other blunt-cut wires are for near the Upfitter wires in the engine compartment, as well as the terminated connector that's nearby.

https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...ent-30041.html

Short answer: loose blunt-cut wires (#2) are for the PTO/signal access; connector (#1) is pass-through wires into the cab area (thanks for the info @carringb).
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Old 03-19-2022, 09:22 AM   #3
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Do you have one of the factory wiring manuals for your van? They're extremely detailed and you can follow every circuit in the van from one end to the other. I'll be the first to tell you that they're sometimes frustrating to look through but I've not found a better source for circuit and connector info than the printed books.

I'll also say that the Ford diagrams are a lot easier to follow than some of the other manufacturers. We're lucky those books are so complete and intuitive. None of y'all would ever want a Mercedes if you looked through their wiring diagrams.
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Old 03-19-2022, 10:53 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgmetalworks View Post
Do you have one of the factory wiring manuals for your van? They're extremely detailed and you can follow every circuit in the van from one end to the other. I'll be the first to tell you that they're sometimes frustrating to look through but I've not found a better source for circuit and connector info than the printed books.

I had them for my previous 1998, haven't gotten the manuals yet for my 2011.
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Old 03-19-2022, 11:02 AM   #5
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Highly recommend it. You can get any of them 2009-2014 and they're exactly the same. 2015-2019 are mostly the same but different drivetrain stuff and chassis cab specific stuff.
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Old 03-20-2022, 02:25 PM   #6
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BrianW - super helpful, thanks! They also list some of this info in the BBAS, though I think your explanation was much better!
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Old 03-20-2022, 09:09 PM   #7
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Those 4 enable switches run through a connector under the dash.
Some of us have plumed those wires / pins back into that connector.
https://expeditionportal.com/forum/t...ox-sjb.165742/
https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...s-15026-3.html


I pulled both sides of a C219 Connector out of the yard, so I could figure out how to de-pin it, and add those circuits in. It still has plenty of "pins" left for the stealing if you need some.

Or I could ship it to you, so you can take it apart, learn, repin yours, and ship it back incase someone else wants it.

MG has somewhere on the web documented the pins.
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