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Old 07-23-2020, 10:21 AM   #11
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I have gone ahead and ordered the DCPower 250 amp alternator that DCPower lists as being specifically for my 2006 E350. Aside from adding the new 1/0 charging wire it seems like the lowest friction way to go. I will report the results.
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Old 07-23-2020, 11:57 AM   #12
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Cool let us know how it goes. I've been pretty happy with my 250A unit. I'm also curious about over-charging and if indeed it's an issue with the Lifeline or other AGM-type house batteries. Another draw on the system is the Surepower battery separator solenoid (if it's a sportsmobile conversion) which has a 1.3A draw and the house battery is an even longer run with more cable and presumably voltage drop.
Anyway, depending on how the starting batteries and house batteries are wired there is some additional power consumption to be factored in.
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Old 07-26-2020, 10:18 AM   #13
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i use MechMan 370 Amp Alternator.. the best!.

https://www.mechman.com/alternators/...-series-van-1/
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Old 07-26-2020, 10:24 AM   #14
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Has anyone fit a Leece Neville 230 amp alternator into an E350 van?

Works fine I have had one in for 2 yearsClick image for larger version

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Old 07-26-2020, 01:35 PM   #15
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https://www.mean-green.com/

I just burned up my stock alternator on my 7.3 and two people recommended this high output alternator to help with charging the house Lithiums.
https://www.mean-green.com/
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Old 07-26-2020, 04:02 PM   #16
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I guess it's time for me to do the alternator upgrade. 09 E350 with 6L engine with the 120a alternator (heavy duty). Edge CTS2 gauge shows the battery voltage at the OBD port as anywhere from 12.9 to 14 but bounces a lot around the middle of that range.

Cigarette lighter voltmeter shows a more stable reading with about 13.8 even when the Edge shows the voltage bouncing all around.

Noticed on V-10 engines the voltage is much more stable and is over 14v and not quite sure why that is. My buddy has an 06 6L engine as well and his Edge gauge is bouncing all over just like mine even after an aftermarket alternator (don't know which one he got).

I think I will go with the Leece Neville 230 as well and hope for better charging and performance for my AGM starting and house batteries. Good info on this thread.
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Old 07-27-2020, 09:37 PM   #17
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Funny timing on this......I talked to Ed at FICM, and ordered the Leece Neville 230A unit youíre looking at for my 7.3
I havenít installed it yet for several reasons, one being that my current wire harness to the alternator includes what I think is an exciter jump wire or a voltage regulator and the new unit doesnít include a input spot for that wire plug. So after a few phone calls about the missing input, they assured me that it would work, but I discovered that if I unplug that exciter wire, my battery light goes on, which is what I was afraid of something like that happening. So, Ed is getting back to me on finding another high amp alternator that includes a spot for the secondary wire.
Hope that makes sense, and you may want to look at your current alternator harness to see if thereís a secondary wire apart from the main plug.
Why don't you just get the dual alternator kit from Ford?
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Old 07-31-2020, 07:19 AM   #18
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Vanimal- thatís an option for sure, but it does complicate things-new belt, harness/wiring, added expense with an additional unit to purchase and potentially fail.
Just had another conversation with the guys at FICM, Iím going to install the LN unit I have from them, they were fairly confident it would work and does not require the jump/exciter wire, if in fact thatís what it is, and not needed on the newer units. If my battery light does go on, one of the techs I talked to suggested I put a ring terminal on the secondary wire and connect it to the positive stud on the alt, we will see.....
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Old 08-01-2020, 09:55 AM   #19
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Vanimal- thatís an option for sure, but it does complicate things-new belt, harness/wiring, added expense with an additional unit to purchase and potentially fail.
Just had another conversation with the guys at FICM, Iím going to install the LN unit I have from them, they were fairly confident it would work and does not require the jump/exciter wire, if in fact thatís what it is, and not needed on the newer units. If my battery light does go on, one of the techs I talked to suggested I put a ring terminal on the secondary wire and connect it to the positive stud on the alt, we will see.....
It is an easier install, remove replace, cost not sure of the difference, but i am sure you will inform us. As far as replacement in a crisis I like the fact that if one of my units goes down I can still charge the starter battery and get home from Baja. If it goes down in the states or Baja, most Mexico auto parts, or O Reiley's will have it on the shelf. Simplicity and initial cost are in your favor on this. Wishing you well, Keep us posted on how it works out, cost, and true output amp/volts
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Old 08-01-2020, 10:25 AM   #20
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Just had another conversation with the guys at FICM, Iím going to install the LN unit I have from them, they were fairly confident it would work and does not require the jump/exciter wire, if in fact thatís what it is,.....
There is little doubt it will work. The second wire, when left disconnected will certainly cause the alternator warning light to be on all the time, so you will need to watch the voltage for any sign of a failing alternator, fortunately you have two ways to do that, one factory meter in the dash and the other in your scan gauge. As for connecting the exciter wire to the B+ terminal, I'd have to dig a bit deeper to determine the effect of doing that. Otherwise, does the output voltage match your battery chemistry?
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