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Old 05-17-2022, 08:16 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Scalf77 View Post
I would just check to see what ground is bad if any (pin 4 or pin 5 ) . Ground at Left Hand Rocker panel would be my suspect location.

-greg
That missing wire was located at the left hand rocker panel which I cleaned.


Hi all, thanks for checking on this. So I actually get ground on both pin 4 & 5. Wait to start light comes on both with and without scan gauge. This is quite the mystery. I looked up the wiring diagram of the EDGE OBD2 connector, and it also has pin 4&5 soldered.

One thing to note is that the scan gauge connector doesn't have all 16 pins, only where there are connections to the OBD2. I can't imagine why this would change anything.

Can't thank you all enough for the help troubleshooting. I'm going to reach out to scan gauge and see if they have any ideas. I'll be out of service (moving) for a week or two, but I'll make sure to keep you all updated - especially for if this happens to anyone else.

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Old 05-17-2022, 08:51 AM   #22
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For some clarity, what is the actual problem?

Scangauge causing crank no start or when Scangauge is removed causing crank no start condition?

My assumption was that when you removed Scanguage that it wouldn't start. This led us down the possible ground connection via scanguage.

To be clear, if scanguage is removed and it doesn't start it is not a scanguage issue. I can't really explain how having having it plugged in overrides your problem, but I think it would be best to drop focusing on that as your issue.

You have PO codes that point out low voltage at the PCM, I would focus on that. Scanguage does not need all of the connections on the Diag connector.

-greg
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Old 05-17-2022, 06:27 PM   #23
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Glad you got the Edge 3.0 up and running. I love it. I hated the scangauge. What a difference.
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Old 05-19-2022, 03:29 PM   #24
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Maybe a reflash of ECU or FICM?
Something similar just happened to me a few weeks ago. First the disclaimers, I have a 6.0 and not the 7.3, also my symptom was a no crank, no start.

Prior to this no crank symptom , I let the van sit for a few weeks and let the battery run down. Tried to start with a longish ~10 sec crank stopped and made second crank attempt hand slipped immediately after starter started spinning. Tried the ignition again and nothing.

Tested and replaced fuses for engine control electronics. Jumped the terminal on starter solenoid...cranked. Rotated all the relays around. Still no crank from the key. Jumped the starter relay terminals... cranked. Voltage to relay observed. Disassembled column to check ignition switch. Tried shifting while holding key to start to eliminate transmission position sensor. Nada. Pulled out my backup PCM and swapped it in. Cranked and started up without a hick-up.

Swapped my old PCM back in, got out my SCT tuner to attempt a flash or reprogram of the PCM. Incidentally had a tune on my PCM (Must of forgot to reprogram after getting back on road.), so I had it returned to stock. Turned the key and it cranked, started and ran.

My guess, the quick let-off on the starter on the second attempt caused a power surge exacerbated by a low voltage condition that corrupted the PCM. Coincidentally I have a CTS2 and the whole time was operating normally receiving data and it did not report any unusual error codes.
Just throwing this out there as another possibility. Good luck.
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Old 05-24-2022, 09:56 AM   #25
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Greg, maxswasser will have to confirm but I am pretty sure this is the multiple ground terminal in the engine bay side of the front sheet metal behind the driver side headlight. I have a bolt that looks the same and I know the importance of THAT particular grounding connection. Those grounds run into the Power Distribution Block.

I just went to check that location on our 7.3 and it has the small ring terminal with a black wire attached to it. As best as I can trace by feeling along the wire, it looks like it goes under and then into the harness connected to the Power Distribution block with the large fuses.

I would suggest maxswasser look more closely under the Power Distribution block to see if there is a loose wire floating around. It does not have a lot of play and looks like it could easily be broken off from the ring terminal, especially after 20 years.

I will see if I can get some pictures, I just have lots of stuff in that corner!

1der, you win the prize!

With key in ignition in the 'on' position, I'm only getting 7.3 volts between pin #5 and pin #16. With key off, I get 12.7 volts at both grounds. Any idea how to fix it? I can't find the wire that goes to to the PD block. All I have is are the thicker 12 awg black wire, and a black and white striped wire which doesn't connect to the ground on OBD2.

Again, thank you so much for the help. Truly cannot believe this community. Cheers y'all. Celebrating with a trip to Moab tonight.
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