home build wiring diagram

[rallypanam]

Originally Posted by Ford_6L_E350

That is a lot of battery and solar for just a fridge and some lights.

Our van has two Group 27 house batteries and our fridge would run 3-5 days on them. After we installed a singlr 125W solar panel we never run out of battery power unless we camp in the shade.

Mike

I should also qualify that the four batteries was a wild assed guess! Need to figure out what I reasonable need and what the solar can charge. May we end up with 2!

[daveb]

I have twin 220AH batteries and find it has been the perfect solution for my needs. YMMV. With 260 watts of solar it is a bit of overkill but helps on overcast days. I still have room up top for a storage container and actually that is more important than a larger solar array. If you have some kind of mobile office or other need that requires a large array, fine. All I use the solar is to re-charge the house system and keep the batteries (house & chassis) at peak. You"ll have to determine what load you'll be using on a daily level and figure what you really need. I just warn folks that solar is a minimal charging system, not a supply system.

[jage]

The fridge should plug into a 110v outlet, just FYI. The 12v side is hardwired.

I put a switch (110v RV lightswitch) between my fridge outlet and the shore/inverter power such that I can keep the fridge from switching to 110v when I power on the inverter, no sense in paying the 20%+ down to power the fridge when not on shore power.

You'll want a GFI on the outlets and additional breakers.

And I'd lose the 40w panel, sell for funds or something. Using it would mean isolating the systems which defeats the purpose of the separator in most events, and you'd have to add a separate controller... maybe it's time for an adventure trailer if you really, really can't bear to part with it.

Should be good, take lots of build pictures!

[rallypanam]

Thanks... Here's the updated potential plan.. Still without all fuses/breakers.

My theory on the fridge 110v was have a outlet right off shore power, that was before the inverter. Then if no shore power it would have to be on 110v.

And I've added the expensive LinkLITE monitor unless someone got a better suggestion?

[Pntyrmvr]

Hi;

Some SMB's have a switch so that the dash mounted stereo can draw from either the house battery system or the starting battery system to eliminate unwanted draws on either one.

Otherwise thanks for posting the diagram. May I use it to improve my project?

Thanks.

Regards,

Gavin

[rallypanam]

I was thinking of running the stereo off house batteries. Although I hadn't thought of a switch.. Much better idea. So 95% it runs as normal, but I can switch when camping.

Sure, help yourself. Don't blame me when something catches on fire though! I'm not an expert!

[rockbender]

On the stereo house switch, you want to make sure that your stereo is hooked up to the starter battery circuit such that it is on only during 'key on' operations. This would be standard wiring obviously, but if for some reason you had it hooked up to power all the time you would be backfeeding your starter batteries when you turned on your house radio switch.

I only bring this up because my radio used to be wired such that it was on ALL the time, but I have since rewired it so it is only on when the key is on via the starter side, unless the house radio switch is on.

[rallypanam]

Originally Posted by rockbender

On the stereo house switch, you want to make sure that your stereo is hooked up to the starter battery circuit such that it is on only during 'key on' operations. This would be standard wiring obviously, but if for some reason you had it hooked up to power all the time you would be backfeeding your starter batteries when you turned on your house radio switch.

I only bring this up because my radio used to be wired such that it was on ALL the time, but I have since rewired it so it is only on when the key is on via the starter side, unless the house radio switch is on.

Exactly. I don't want any way to leave the radio on such that it drains the starting batteries. Cause if its possible, I'd do it.

[daveb]

It's rare for me to leave the radio switch on because in the off position the stereo shuts down as soon as I open the doors after the ignition is turned off. If the radio continues to blast away it's a big red flag. Now if I do leave it on, I don't really care cause in the morning the solar will charge the batteries back up. Mine van is more or less a daily driver but I can see where those who don't have solar, or who put their van in storage can get caught in the radio trap. One thing I did do was to add a switch to the bass amp. That's the big draw from the stereo system and I don't need that on unless I'm driving. Even when using the stereo as surround sound for DVD's, the bass amp need to be shut off...way too much bass IMO. Also I'm so glad I got rid of my Surepower separator and installed a Blue Sea 7622. Although many have never had problems with the Surepower type separators, I went through a bunch of em and am glad to have them out of my life. They were all replace under warranty but the fuel it took to drive to have them replaced, man, coulda bought several Blue sea units. Don't know much about the model you're putting in so YMMV

[rallypanam]

True. Music on after I walk away means I forgot to hit the switch!

As for my separator - which is from Wrangler NW but as Scalf notes, looks a lot like a Surepower - I've had it for years now, never had an issue with it, so I'll keep it.. If it causes problems with the new system, then I'll have to replace it down the road.

Except, now that I look at specs for the Surepower and take another look at Scalf's post, do I have the 1314 or 1315? I think if I want the solar to charge start batteries, I need the 1315 (Wrangler 205). Looks like I need to crawl under my van and take a look.