Hood adhered solar

[Scalf77]

Originally Posted by moorefc

Yep the subject wandered...thought about that but it seemed to flow...The diode issue actually may not have been related to the separator (was a 1315 and now is blue sea), but was clipped to the starter batt....If it had been connected to the house, there may have had better 200ah buffering even tho the 1315 was closed...I should look at the voltage drop across there under high current....Now when airing up is done with some dwell time...

I was actually being a little sarcastic with that statement. Many of the SMB surepower units were wired to be connected to the "run" circuit of the van. That caused the relay to remain closed even if the low voltage threshold was met. It was for the start assist feature, it should have been connected to the "start" circuit. Even with the compressor on the start battery side, it might have at least prevented the current that was going to the battery to disconnect.

-greg

[moorefc]

Originally Posted by Scalf77

units were wired to be connected to the "run" circuit of the van. That caused the relay to remain closed even if the low voltage threshold was met. It was for the start assist feature, it should have been connected to the "start" circuit. Even with the compressor on the start battery side, it might have at least prevented the current that was going to the battery to disconnect.

-greg

I remember looking at that when first getting this van, but don't remember details as it was switched out to Blue Sea...And now the lithium conundrum...How bout that for drift...

[Scalf77]

Originally Posted by posplayr

A brute force solution is a larger alternator perhaps but as has been shown (in various links), more finesseful control of the DC-DC charging can yield more satisfactory results while avoiding burning out the stock alternators .

Not sure why you would consider it a brute force solution. If I size my DC to DC correctly I should avoid any problems. If you can't meet that you either get a smaller DC to DC charger or a bigger alternator. That is not brute force, it is simply picking the right components for the intended application. Again there will be trade offs between the charge rate we want, and the charge rate that our system will support.

While I agree that throttling back performance based on temperature of the alternator certainly has merits, you could get full amperage 75% of the time and half amperage 25% of the time. The simplicity of picking the correct components does also. A properly sized DC to DC charger does not burn up alternators.

-greg

[posplayr]

Greg, You previously posted

Originally Posted by Scalf77

, maybe stepping up to a higher output alternator would be a better solution.

In the case of the first comment, an alternator that is burning out is not lacking in amperage capacity, just cooling capacity. That is an operational issue typically associated with low RPM.

So upsizing the alternator will at best increases thermal mass or increase surface area for better heat transfer. For a given DC-DC demand requirement, increasing the output is not what you want nor is it required.

This is what I referred to as brute force. It might help for a while but it is not a very effective means of avoiding burning out the alternator.

I would put the question to you, "if a stock alternator burns out under the DC-DC demand load, how much longer will an upgraded alternator run at the same demand last? Why? The original alternator is not burning out due to lack of amperage, but lack of an ability to cool itself.

Originally Posted by Scalf77

The simplicity of picking the correct components does also. A properly sized DC to DC charger does not burn up alternators.
-greg

In the second quote, you are getting much closer to the issue. The DC to DC needs to be throttled based on the available cooling ability of the alternator. That is primarily a function of load and RPM where at higher RPM the highest loads are supported without thermal runaway issues.

So my point although maybe not stayed very clearly (and I think you are agreeing) is that a direct approach is to moderate the DC to DC demand based on available cooling and even possibly RPM.

[Scalf77]

Originally Posted by Clarkboulder

I have an 96 e-350 Sportsmobile. (AKA Outdated electrical). I'm searching for a low profile Solar panel that can be installed on or better adhered to my "blank canavas" hood similar to this FJ Cruiser version. Has anyone found these to fit a 96 Ford E-series hood? This one (link below) seems like the closest size. https://www.cascadia4x4.com/products...od-solar-panel These Cascadia4x4 look like a great solution to an unused hood space but they don't provide dimensions or respond to emails or calls (yet).

Or anything else that might work? (searched this forum to no avail)

Reason being is two fold. I have a manual penthouse pop top and can't add any more weight to it as I already have a Yak box and bike trays and I am forced to prop up inside with cargo jacks. I have a 120watt portable suitcase Solar panel for the ground now but its bulky and hard to store and bring along..not ideal. Also, recently, while having good house battery charge, I was nearly stranded by a dead engine battery. Since everything else, I assumed, was drawing from the two house batteries (fridge, auxiliary radio, SMB lights), I removed the two little door light bulbs when I got home thinking that must have drained the battery. Anyway, I want to either connect a hood solar to the engine battery or ideally have it help charge both and be more permanent connection. (Although House Batteries are in deep rear of van while engine is under hood of course). Long term, I'd like to find adequate solar and add an inverter to rid myself of the Onan 2800 generator but I can't figure out where to mount solar with the weight issues mentioned above. So for now....hence the hood...the biggest skyward blank space on the van.

Back to the original topic of the tread, here is the item you were looking for Ford Sportsmobile E350 Van Lensun 105W Hood Solar Panel

[posplayr]

Originally Posted by posplayr

So my point although maybe not stayed very clearly (and I think you are agreeing) is that a direct approach is to moderate the DC to DC demand based on available cooling and even possibly RPM.

https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...tml#post296678

Originally Posted by Scalf77

Back to the original topic of the tread, here is the item you were looking for Ford Sportsmobile E350 Van Lensun 105W Hood Solar Panel

I have yet to try this alternator but it claims a 300A rating with

" This Is Truly A High Amp Premium Quality Well Built Alternator
It Has OE compliant functions : current limiting, thermal shutdown,
load dump protection, shorted field & lamp circuit protection "

This closed-loop monitoring is the direct safety protection needed to protect the alternator against self-destruction.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/202513986004