How do I test the 2 frame mounted batteries on my E350 6.0?

[coolfeet]

I bought a used 6.0 PSD extended van. The batteries were dead before I test drove the van. It runs good after I recharged the batteries.

I like to check as much information as possible. I bought a scan gauge and started monitoring the FICM voltages and discovered the main voltage is 20 volts at start up. It goes up to 48.5 in 30 seconds.

I sent the FICM to FICMrepair.com and it's on the way back to California. I need to load test the batteries and alternator. before I ruin another FICM.

Can I do this without dropping the batteries? I am thinking I need to drop both and test each individually.

The PCM must see both batteries as one unit. If one battery tests bad, both are probably bad.

Anyone know how to test both batteries and the alternator with a multimeter?

Thanks!

Mark

[SixCardCharlie]

Mine are both mounted on the rail also.

It's a pain to get them down but it's pretty hard to try and get your head and hands up there to test. What I do is just get something that will sit underneath so you don't have to lower them all the way. Last time I used a paint can it lowers enough so you can disconnect the terminals and see what you are doing. Then when bolting back on I just put a brick in between the battery box and the paint can. It lifted it back up so I could fasten them back on The rail without having to hold them up.

Check out a multi meter that can do a battery check. It will say if it can on it. If it's good a green light with a check mark will light up. You can also just take them into auto zone and they will do it for free.

You can also take your alt in for a bench test to autozone but I'm not sure how reliable that test is. If your alternator is stock and you have the money you should just get a new one. The stock alternator on these 6.0s is the same part number as the ford fushion sedan. Pretty lame.

[coolfeet]

Originally Posted by SixCardCharlie

Mine are both mounted on the rail also.

It's a pain to get them down but it's pretty hard to try and get your head and hands up there to test. What I do is just get something that will sit underneath so you don't have to lower them all the way. Last time I used a paint can it lowers enough so you can disconnect the terminals and see what you are doing. Then when bolting back on I just put a brick in between the battery box and the paint can. It lifted it back up so I could fasten them back on The rail without having to hold them up.

Check out a multi meter that can do a battery check. It will say if it can on it. If it's good a green light with a check mark will light up. You can also just take them into auto zone and they will do it for free.

You can also take your alt in for a bench test to autozone but I'm not sure how reliable that test is. If your alternator is stock and you have the money you should just get a new one. The stock alternator on these 6.0s is the same part number as the ford fushion sedan. Pretty lame.

SixCard Charlie-I was hoping you would answer with a magic bullet and say something like "Connect your DMM to the red plug on the frame and the black lead to ground." I will drop the batteries and proceed to test.

I watched a video online that shows testing the alternator through the batteries while the engine is running. I have the stock OEM alternator. If I pull it to bench test it, I will replace it as it's a lot of work to get the thing out.