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Old 03-11-2008, 10:46 AM   #1
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How good is your Electrical Ground (to Body, to Frame)?

How good is your Electrical Ground (to Body, to Frame, Body To Frame)?

Shouldn't the Electrical Body Ground of the Sporto have the same reading (measuring in Ohm's off the Voltmeter) as the Ground to Frame?

Ground is Ground, but I was thinking of putting in a good thick ground line from the body ground of the Sporto to the Frame just to make sure..

I have two batteries and they both were not ground to the frame but they are grounded to the body of the sporto (one battery is of a stock configuration to ground; looks like two lines running to ground.)

Any Electrical Guru comment?

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Old 03-12-2008, 06:57 PM   #2
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I'm not a Guru of anything, but I think you're right on in your thinking. I haven't been having any problems, but am going to check my resistance reading too. Seems to me that running a cable from body to frame is easy, cheap insurance.
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Old 03-13-2008, 12:29 AM   #3
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ground wire

You bring up a very good point that everyone should be checking regularly, the battery cables. More issues arise from loose battery cables than you realize. These vans get subject to 6.0+ earthquakes all the time, and with the amount of current flowing through these battery cables, connections can get loose and create many problems.

Regular battery cable checks will definitely pay off in the long run!

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Old 03-13-2008, 08:01 AM   #4
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How about a list of battery cable locations?

Here is my guess:
Battery Terminals
Battery Ground Connection (to Frame)
Battery Separator
Battery (+) to Jump Stud (in front of wheel well 6.0L)
Battery to engine (?)
House Battery Terminals
Batteries to Invertor
Body Ground to Frame (is there one on the E350 normally?)

Where else should we check?

I knew a guy with a Scout and when he was done building there was no contact between the body and the frame (probably due to paint), caused him all kinds of problems until he figured it out.
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Old 03-13-2008, 10:10 AM   #5
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I think most everything stock is grounded to the Body, even the original battery connections, black ground from the battery has two lines.. one goes to the engine and the other the body.. but not so sure about it going to the Frame.

In my case, I had a "lucky" short that started from the bumper to the frame and tried to find it's way to the body back to the battery. I got lucky since it took an easy path from the frame to the steering lines touching the brake lines just below master cylinder.. Lucky, because it was cooking from the arcing but I caught it in time! The coiled brake lines "glowed"!!

Long story short it was the faulty winch that was shorting to the frame..proved it with another known good winch; the wiring was good.

But that got me thinking after that since we noticed that the ohm's reading were not the same from a location to the frame versus to the body..

We at least added a ground wire from the second battery to the "same" ground as the first battery versus finding a nearest body ground. We also added insulation to isolate where it was arcing..

I'm not an electrical guru but I guess the best way to find out is with a ohm meter and measure your ohm resistance comparing to body and then comparing to frame.. they should be the same from the same point..

Now to notch it up.. Which ground would you ground the "House Battery"? The body or the frame?

I think the answer should be both..making sure there is a good ground between the body and the frame in the first place..
I'll be trying to find out how it done from the factory, if not, I'm adding one..
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