hunting down a power lock gremlin

[reelchef67]

Originally Posted by JWA

We shouldn't assume everyone has their forum display preferences set exactly the same. When seeking info that's potentially specific to a year make or model including that info in the body of the post---not relying on signatures etc---we get to the solution a bit quicker.

If you have the factory RKE module as Jage says there could be a problem with it. Typically factory wiring tends to stay in place although over time they could loose contact due age alone.

More likely though it the RKE module itself has failed. Some have successfully opened it and effected DIY repairs on the PCB and the surface mounted electronic components---I never have. Another option is finding one already repaired with warranty and exchanging the existing RKE. eBay seems to be a good source for this sort of thing, others here may have personal experience with this as well.

For a "quick fix" I'd look at the master switch block for PW & PDL located on the drivers door---again assuming those too are factory original. Occasionally one of the switch pin sockets will spread apart, the lost contact not allowing the system to work properly. "Bending" those back together SLIGHTLY restores contact and possibly full operation too.

A failed PD switch can also cause this condition but my ideas are its internal to the RKE module.

HTH

So where is the Rke module located?

[JWA]

Originally Posted by reelchef67

So where is the Rke module located?

'Tis here:

[carringb]

I had a similar problem. The alarm system splice for the door locks was made behind the driver kick panel. Somehow the extra wire slack got pinched behind the parking brake pedal.

[JWA]

Excellent point CarringB----I'm assuming the errant alarm system was aftermarket installed?

When I added the AutoBolt electric deadbolt locks and CrimeGuard alarm system I tucked the electrical connections along with separate and dedicated fuse & relay blocks near the RKE, attached to the same inner body structure carrying the RKE module itself.

This configuration keeps those connections and wiring up and away from most activity that might cause issues like under discussion here.

[shenrie]

Originally Posted by JWA

For a "quick fix" I'd look at the master switch block for PW & PDL located on the drivers door---again assuming those too are factory original. Occasionally one of the switch pin sockets will spread apart, the lost contact not allowing the system to work properly. "Bending" those back together SLIGHTLY restores contact and possibly full operation too.

^^^ i had one of the switches in my toyota stop working long ago. i was thinking it was due to what you explained above, but it ended up being a little different scenario.

it was the passenger window up function. neither up function on pass door or driver door would roll it up. happened when gf at the time was living in redmond, wa. dealer charged her 100 bucks just to roll window up. man do they stick it to the ladies... anyway one of the times i visited, she was doing her internship stuff so i figured id try and fix the window since i was there with nothing else to do (ya, it was raining, lol). i was able to get it going with tools found in a girls apartment (yes, i was amazed). a multi-point screw driver, some pliers, a fingernail file, and some vaseline. removed door panel and pulled window switch out. looked it over well and determined that the connection for the up function was corroded over. i cleaned the contacts with the nail file, then greased them up with vaseline. it worked perfect for the 7-8 years i had the truck after that.

in short, each time you use the switch, it arcs. every time it arced, it left some buildup. over time, it eventually built up so much crap, that it stopped making a connection at all. dirt and other crap inside switch didnt help either. why that kept the drivers side switch from rolling it up im not sure, but thats how i was able to make it work again. i cant say that will fix your issue, but its a possibility i thought id throw out there in case none of the other ideas being presented helped. best of luck finding your gremlin!

[reelchef67]

Originally Posted by JWA

'Tis here:

OH crap, that is extremely inaccessible behind my cabinets... What a stupid place for that thing... Maybe If I could remove my fridge and was able to somehow get the wall panel removed. Not likely thou.
Hooped

[reelchef67]

Thanks shenrie im going to give that try. Nail files here I come...

[86Scotty]

EDIT: Doh! I typed this whole post without realizing there was a second page to this thread, so essentially all of it is redundant. Anyway, I'm leaving it. Where did I set my coffee?

Originally Posted by JWA

For a "quick fix" I'd look at the master switch block for PW & PDL located on the drivers door---again assuming those too are factory original. Occasionally one of the switch pin sockets will spread apart, the lost contact not allowing the system to work properly. "Bending" those back together SLIGHTLY restores contact and possibly full operation too.

HTH

I agree. I would first suspect your master switch. Maybe you could get one from a salvage yard and test it on the spot before you leave with it?

They are pretty cheap: http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-99-01-02-...tWOj2u&vxp=mtr

Just FYI, the switch comes out of the trim so you don't have to match your color. The plugs and actual switch are the same all the way back to 92 I think.

I hope you don't have problems with the RKE module, as it is buried in the left hand wall behind the driver's seat. For SMB or other converted van owners this means removing a lot of cabinetry and possible a fridge/stove/sink. Not fun.

Rob, the noise you hear from your right door is actually forward of it. I'm pretty sure the relays for the door locks/etc. are in the passenger footwell, unless I'm just remembering that's where the ones for my alarm are. Pull your panel and mess around with the wiring there and you may learn something.

[JWA]

Originally Posted by 86Scotty

Rob, the noise you hear from your right door is actually forward of it. I'm pretty sure the relays for the door locks/etc. are in the passenger footwell, unless I'm just remembering that's where the ones for my alarm are. Pull your panel and mess around with the wiring there and you may learn something.

Actually there are no factory relays for the PW or PDL's. Any noises heard when they're engaged is from the actual "motors" or solenoids that actuate the lock mechanisms inside the door.

With an RKE every time the PDL's are engaged or the dome light is triggered the RKE plays a part. As such they're somewhat subject to failure but not until just after they're no longer available new from Ford---10 years or more in most cases.

There are refurbished units to be had via eBay etc if that system of remote entry is desired. Honestly the entire module can be eliminated (which does require a bit of wiring/splicing know-how but not rocketry level stuff ) and a dependable easily replaceable aftermarket alarm system with PDL actuation part of the features.

They're great until they mess up---and we're forced to dismantle our build outs to deal with one little POS "module" yet again.

[reelchef67]

Update!
My passenger door locks are once again working ...
I found my window. Above where the RKE is located. Was not quite closed and locked. There was some water coming in. Not sure if. It's related , could be a coincidence. .. Drivers switch still non functional..