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Old 10-29-2017, 07:53 AM   #41
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Greetings B350,

Sounds like you have a plan coming together. I may have missed this part in this conversation but what is the size of wire between the solar controller and the battery bank. And how are they connected, (direct?). I understand your limited on tools and a shop but as part of your upgrade to 400 potential watts I am recommending you at least go big with the wire from the controller (6AWG for a short run) to the batteries. And make them as direct as possible. No, chassis grounds or tapping the hot or ground it into a light fixture. Yes, I have seen crazy things. Changing that wire run should be a lot easier than the one to the panels and you probably wont even need any crimping. Just be aware the R no energy controller may not accommodate that wire size and you'll need to trim it down but that's not a big restriction. The wire run between the controller and the battery bank is by far the most common restriction point in current (amps) due to voltage loss. Though your wire run from the panels is at a higher voltage to over come this loss the controller to batteries run is still only 12 volt. Just trying to offer up the easiest modification for you for the greatest gain in efficiency.

I'd offer you my tools and help but working on Solar in Southern California in early December sounds pretty ideal compared to my driveway in Colorado Springs.

- Eric

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Old 11-02-2017, 10:41 PM   #42
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ShuttlePilot,
Going to larger wire from the charge controller to my battery bus is a good idea and will be done. Right now it’s only 10AWG so 8 or 6AWG will definitely help. Thanks!
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Old 11-08-2017, 09:10 PM   #43
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Hey B350

Actually popping the cherry here on your board . I am very inactive on this forum but use it regularly to gather info. Anyway came across your post as I am in the process of planning a alternator upgrade, AGMs, and solar in the near future. I am located in Long Beach CA and work out of a pretty well equipped "hot rod" shop. My schedule is a little crazy sometimes but if you are still looking for a place to work out of I should be able to accommodate you. Worse case maybe some night/weekend work. Hate to see ya not have a place to fix up your baby.
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Old 11-14-2017, 09:41 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polymathtastic View Post
Hey B350

Actually popping the cherry here on your board . I am very inactive on this forum but use it regularly to gather info. Anyway came across your post as I am in the process of planning a alternator upgrade, AGMs, and solar in the near future. I am located in Long Beach CA and work out of a pretty well equipped "hot rod" shop. My schedule is a little crazy sometimes but if you are still looking for a place to work out of I should be able to accommodate you. Worse case maybe some night/weekend work. Hate to see ya not have a place to fix up your baby.
Congrats on, err, popping your cherry.
Thanks for the offer! I’ll see how the timing works out and let you know if and when we would come by Long Beach.
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Old 02-03-2019, 08:43 AM   #45
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I'm recycling an AGM house battery into a solar setup for a water transfer pump at the campsite. One 100 watt panel and a Phocos 10 amp industrial charge controller (for the IP-68 weatherproofing).
On which lead between controller and battery should the fuse be placed, ground or power ?
Is a fuse between controller and panel recommended, and which lead ?

Also Renogy has been getting quite a few poor quality reviews on their products. Does anyone have a suggestion for a quality 100W mono-crystal panel ?
tia
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Old 02-03-2019, 11:55 AM   #46
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I fused the power side of things...not sure it matters much...


I have 2 Renogy eclipse 100W mono panels on the roof; they have been performing great since the day I installed them a few years ago.
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Old 03-18-2019, 05:33 PM   #47
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15 month’s after seeking and getting great input and info I feel inclined to give an update on the solar and charging situation.

My initial concerns were a lack of charge for my 2 (210AH each) Lifeline AGM 4D batteries with 2 100 watt Renogy solar panels and a 20 amp Renogy MPPT charge controller. I noted a full charge being 12.7V for my battery bank.

Well, shortly after my initial post back in November of 2017 I added one more identical 100 watt Renogy solar panel, a larger 40 amp Renogy MPPT charge controller and a tilt-able panel mount for the third panel.

Here’s what I’ve learned after living in the van and using the solar system almost everyday for the last 15 months:

1. The lack of direct overhead sun during the winter in northern latitudes plays a huge part in getting adequate sunlight for a full day’s charge. So, adding the third panel and having the ability to tilt at least that one towards the low sun helps a lot.

2. My wiring for the solar system was and is sufficient. I didn’t change any of it. The wires coming from the panels are indeed 10AWG.

3. Lo and behold 12.7V is a full charge for my battery bank. 19 months after initially hooking the system up and using it almost every single day, it is still charging the batteries to 12.7V on sufficiently sunny days.

So, I’d say all’s good. And you guys definitely shared some great info. Thank you.

Here are pictures of the tilting panel mount.
Attached Thumbnails
0C73D61C-D508-46DD-B9FF-FA19155C3A39.jpg   EAD35D75-4C64-4BE0-BBDD-E8FDE6D7DBA5.jpg   2C939668-019C-4DD9-9CFA-C0CABB1F8F29.jpg   16A0E81B-240F-450C-AC75-F796DA49A1EC.jpg  
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