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11-06-2022, 12:20 PM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 19
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inverter
I didn’t read completely through the posts so I may have missed something. My inverter quit due to a loose fuse on the body of the inverter. It was a bit difficult to see but poke around and look for it. One of the fuses could be blown or loose. It sounds like this is not your problem but worth taking a look. 2004 E 350 Sportsmobile.
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11-06-2022, 02:17 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 2,504
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One of the cartoon schematics.
I have circled generally where the fuse would be placed. This would generally be a Class T fuse or ANL fuse. I would be interested in know where your disconnect switch is based on this diagram. You can see the path from start battery (alternator) via the Sure Power 1315. They show, aux battery output going directly to the house battery. This may or may not be true one your build, but it would be electrically equivalent. It may go to the battery side of the fuse. You can also see the wire going to the circuit breaker and then to the fuse distribution. Again they show that T-ing off of the battery to inverter cable, it will be electrically equivalent to that.
Battery to Inverter is usually 2/0 awg wire , Sure power is usually 2 awg, while the wire to circuit breaker to fuse is generally 8 awg. Again these can change based on specific build, but it gives you some ides of the wire sizes.
-greg
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11-06-2022, 03:18 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 19
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inverter fuse
More information: In my case there are two fuses below the fan on the inverter.
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11-06-2022, 03:24 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 19
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converter
OOPS. My bad I believe I meant Converter. Model PD 9155, Progressive Dynamics
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11-06-2022, 03:46 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: PNW or maybe Baja Sur
Posts: 382
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And in my case, i believe the fuse is between the aux battery - charger/inverter and separator. Move the red circle down to the aux batt tie in....This is from memory, and consistent with Gregs input. So if that blew, no charge from alternator (or charger/inverter if on shore power). That open fuse could relate to your no lights comments when engine is on or off and switch #2 is on auto or charge.....
__________________
Pac NW and warmer places
1995 E250 EB 5.8 2WD on to a new owner
2006 E350 EB Elect Top 2WD
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11-06-2022, 04:24 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 2,504
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I would suspect that both sides of the fuse holder could be used as a bus bar (multiple wire connection) Many times for Class T fuses SMB use holders with set screws. I have also seen the surepower have multiple wires on the aux output, again using it as a busbar.
So a picture of the fuse holder connections would be a good thing post. Also the Surepower connection would be good also.
Here is a shot of a burnt out ANL fuse for the Inverter/charger. You can see they used the one end as a bus bar see the two different cables. This fuse holder was actually destroyed because it wasn't torqued correctly, they also have the washers in wrong sequence.
-greg
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11-06-2022, 04:38 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: PNW or maybe Baja Sur
Posts: 382
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Mine is similar, but buried at the moment. Lower right.
Cheers
__________________
Pac NW and warmer places
1995 E250 EB 5.8 2WD on to a new owner
2006 E350 EB Elect Top 2WD
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11-07-2022, 09:33 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: So Cal
Posts: 4,071
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jrdButler: Where are you located?
__________________
2008 E350 RB passenger 4WD SMB penthouse
2013 KTM 350 EXC
2008 KTM 250 XCF-W
2003 Honda Element
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04-20-2023, 09:23 PM
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#19
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 6
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Thank you
I know it has been a while since I posted, but wanted to thank everyone for all of the responses. I finally got around to tearing everything apart and chasing the wires as the schematics I had were not correct.
Ultimately, when I dropped the battery, I found that the issue was that the red wire was pinched between the battery and chassis, and rubbed against the chassis causing it to short and weld itself to the body of the van, which blew the fuse to the inverter and fried the inverter. I was happy that it didn't fry the whole van electrical system since! This is why my disconnect didn't seem to be working as it was prior, was getting a constant flow of electric from the battery to the whole van! So, the disconnect is in the right spot.
I replaced the inverter and battery, as well as upgraded the battery switch to a Blue Sea 7622. I also made sure that the battery cables were not getting pinched between the battery and the van body. I had replaced the house battery a couple years ago and tried to make it fit the way it was and use the plastic battery cover which routed the wires a weird way, which clearly I did incorrectly. Stupid mistake, lesson learned.
We had a Surepower 1315-200, which I don't think was working correctly. I upgraded to a Blue Sea 7622, which is seems to be working as it should.
Anyway, not a cheap learning experience, but I now have intimate knowledge of how my house electrical system works. Knowledge is never free.
Thank you all again for the replies and suggestions.
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04-20-2023, 09:30 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: So Cal
Posts: 4,071
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrdbutler15
Anyway, not a cheap learning experience, but I now have intimate knowledge of how my house electrical system works. Knowledge is never free.
Thank you all again for the replies and suggestions.
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Wow....well things could have been worse...nice job. Yes, knowing how everything is wired can be priceless when it comes to troubleshooting.
__________________
2008 E350 RB passenger 4WD SMB penthouse
2013 KTM 350 EXC
2008 KTM 250 XCF-W
2003 Honda Element
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