Isotherm fridge - Page 3

Ford_6L_E350 · 10-09-2010, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomH

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ketcham

Tom,

Yes, 4 4D batteries...this places less strain on the system and better cold weather capacity.

Whoa, am I reading this correctly? SMB recommends either two 100 amp batteries (rather than one), or using one 4D (200 amp) battery in its place. I think I've read of a couple of SMBers installing two of the 4D batteries for a total of 400 amps of power. Am I interpreting this correctly: four batteries at 200 amps each for a total of 800 amps? Did SMB install this for you, or is this DIY? Are they inside the body, or underneath? Anybody else running a large battery bank? Maybe in a few years it will be possible to take one of the new high capacity batteries from a Chevy Volt and use it in SMB.

Not to mention it is almost 600#. Where is there room to mount these 4 batteries? Some have had difficulty mounting the 2nd 4D battery.

Mike

Ketcham · 10-09-2010, 07:46 PM

I mis-typed. 2 4D batteries.

TomH · 10-09-2010, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ketcham

I mis-typed. 2 4D batteries.

No problem. I was having visions of an electrically propelled SMB though!

So for those of you who do have two of the 4D, are they both suspended under the body, or do you wind up putting them inside the van? I believe they are sealed and therefore safe to have inside? Seems they would be less prone to damage if inside, as opposed to hitting rocks and rupturing when underneath. Also seems that having them inside in winter would keep them warmer and allow them to function better in cold climes. Is there any merit to these thoughts??

charlie56 · 10-09-2010, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomH

Seems they would be less prone to damage if inside, as opposed to hitting rocks and rupturing when underneath. Also seems that having them inside in winter would keep them warmer and allow them to function better in cold climes. Is there any merit to these thoughts??

Not that I would mount them inside but here is a fluke mishap with the exterior mount.
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=5407

**daveb** · 10-12-2010, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomH

So for those of you who do have two of the 4D, are they both suspended under the body, or do you wind up putting them inside the van? I believe they are sealed and therefore safe to have inside? Seems they would be less prone to damage if inside, as opposed to hitting rocks and rupturing when underneath. Also seems that having them inside in winter would keep them warmer and allow them to function better in cold climes. Is there any merit to these thoughts??

There are a few posts on this site with pics showing how some are mounted (check the FAQ's first). Mine are in the typical spot SMB mounts them and that's near the rear axle (I have a EB with the XL storage box). Each vans layout might cause problems. Sometimes owners use that space for other items. I really prefer mine to be mounted outside where they can be easily removed like Charlie did

. Cold has not been an issue for me but I still like to conserve. With twin batteries I can run the micro for a limited amount of time w/o having to run the engine and still have enough to power left for the espar equipment along with some LED lighting.

TomH · 10-12-2010, 10:19 PM

Over on the Sprinter Forum, K-9 Sprinter recently posted that SMB-TX installed a house battery of three 8D batteries for his combo canine/camper Sprinter. They are all undercarriage. He says he can run his air conditioner for 2 hours off the house battery at which point the battery is at 70% and the generator automatically kicks in.

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpo ... stcount=13

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpo ... stcount=23

**daveb** · 10-12-2010, 10:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomH

Over on the Sprinter Forum, K-9 Sprinter recently posted that SMB-TX installed a house battery of three 8D batteries for his combo canine/camper Sprinter. They are all undercarriage. He says he can run his air conditioner for 2 hours off the house battery at which point the battery is at 70% and the generator automatically kicks in.

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpo ... stcount=13

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpo ... stcount=23

I think he is the same guy that also posted here about his build. That's a lot of weight and my van was already pushing the limit when I added the second 4-D but I'm glad I added it.

Angel · 10-27-2010, 12:45 PM

I ordered a Isotherm AC/DC converter http://isotherm-parts.com/zcart/index.p ... ts_id=4316

It will automatically switch over my refrig to battery power when I am unplugged and switch to 110 when I am plugged in, as per Ketcham's post.

I will post after I receive it and get it installed. I chose not to get a cheaper after market converter which might not be an easy to install size. Also, it would be blamed if anything ever went wrong with my refrig.

Ketcham, I was told that the ASU was only available on the cruise 85 12V model, not the 12V/110AC model. The ACU will not run on 110AC. If the CR42 and CR INOX are not 12V only models, maybe that is why an ACU is not available for them.

Info about how the ASU works http://www.isotherm-parts.com/pages/asu.shtml

I get better results by Calling Indel in FL 954-984-8448 than talking to isotherm dealers.

Angel

Ketcham · 10-30-2010, 12:02 AM

Hi Angel,

This is John (Ketcham). Yes, you are correct. It is a pretty slick unit. The AC/DC converter will sense 110V and no longer draw from the DC system. Correct, the ASU system will no longer work in this mode. The compressor will work under normal load vs. the conservation mode of the 12V system and adjust given the battery reserve and solar amps generated which will be in flux. The extra cooling plate is charged only when the alternator is running. With the loss of the shore power, the AC/DC unit automatically pulls from the battery.

I do not foresee any other adjustments to the electrical system, unless the AC/DC was also set up to run off your inverter...12V to 110 AC to 12/24V of the compressor. Then a manual switch would have to be placed such that you can run your inverter and isolate the refrigerator so it runs in ASU mode, with a direct 12V draw from the battery.

The unit also mounts to the back of the isotherm refrigerator in the upper corner (I forget which side).

My question would be, having a solar cell, 2 4D batteries, alternator and access to shore power, is there an advantage for a 12-24V/110-220V refrigerator? Shore power would keep the batteries charged while your refrigerator has an intermittent drain of the system.

I spoke with Jonny at SMB. He says the Norcold is 12V only and they do not use units with their system for this reason. Norcold was not functional with my layout and the Webasto stove.

Any thoughts are welcome.

King Regards,

John,

Angel · 11-09-2010, 10:27 PM

I got the converter installed on my refrig (back, right side, just under the compressor) today. The microwave is above the refrig. I had SMBW make two 3 inch holes behind the microwave, last year when my refrig went up to 50 degrees in the summer, to add to the venting ability of the refrig. The microwave is plugged into one of a 2 plug 110 outlet. Now the converter is plugged into the other outlet via the hole behind the microwave.

The refrig switches to 110 when I plug in at home and is not going through the battery. I hope that is an advantage. I plan on these batteries to last longer than the 2 years the last one lasted.

I do not know what happens/how my refrig runs when the inverter is on. When the inverter is on, the microwave lights up as it does when I plug in. So, maybe my refrig will be running on 110 when my inverter is on. Is that a problem? Am I using more battery that way? If so, I will have to find out how and where to add a switch. I can deal with the asu not running while the inverter is on.

Angel