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Old 07-10-2016, 07:35 PM   #21
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4kW so that I can run oven and A/C at the same time without any issues. I have the heat tape on a breaker, and switch it on as needed that way (ditto with the backup electric water heater for the Espar - turn it on only when on shore power).
Are you saying you can run your electric oven and A/C at the same time with batteries, or are you running the engine too?

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Old 07-10-2016, 07:48 PM   #22
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I can run a full 30A of 120VAC off my batteries for about an hour sustained. With the engine running I get about 1.5kW from the engine to the 24V system through the DC/DC converter, with the batteries making up the difference - so for example I can run the back A/C and slowly charge the batteries, or run the oven and break even.
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Old 07-10-2016, 07:56 PM   #23
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If you adjust said regulator for lithiums, the lead acid start battery will get the same charge parameters. I'm sure there is a way to do this, but I don't know enough to determine what hardware allows charging different chemistry type batteries with one charge source.
arctictraveller, move the regulator between the lead and the lithium in your mind. The alternator, solar, shore power all have the charge algorithm for the lead and the charge controller between the lead and the lithium has the lithium charge algorithm.

In my home brew "stand back I'm using science" set up I'm working on, you can see my charge controller for the lithium as the black and red box.

I'm planning on using this LiPo group like a Tesla powerwall in addition to my normal electrical system. Just to note I'm using lithium polymer batteries which are even more different voltage than the lithium iron phosphate in relation to lead acid. Dissimilar chemistry energy storage and dissimilar voltage are used a lot it's just now tricking down to the pro hobbyist projects. The electric car folks are all over it.

Wowbagger, your system sounds awesome. I'd love to see it.

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Old 07-10-2016, 07:59 PM   #24
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I can run a full 30A of 120VAC off my batteries for about an hour sustained. With the engine running I get about 1.5kW from the engine to the 24V system through the DC/DC converter, with the batteries making up the difference - so for example I can run the back A/C and slowly charge the batteries, or run the oven and break even.
Which stove are you using?
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Old 07-10-2016, 08:00 PM   #25
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arctictraveller, move the regulator between the lead and the lithium in your mind. The alternator, solar, shore power all have the charge algorithm for the lead and the charge controller between the lead and the lithium has the lithium charge algorithm.

In my home brew "stand back I'm using science" set up I'm working on, you can see my charge controller for the lithium as the black and red box.

I'm planning on using this LiPo group like a Tesla powerwall in addition to my normal electrical system. Just to note I'm using lithium polymer batteries which are even more different voltage than the lithium iron phosphate in relation to lead acid. Dissimilar chemistry energy storage and dissimilar voltage are used a lot it's just now tricking down to the pro hobbyist projects. The electric car folks are all over it.

Wowbagger, your system sounds awesome. I'd love to see it.

Eric
LOL - that's the best kind of science. What made you go this route rather than the typical LiPo setup?
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Old 07-10-2016, 08:07 PM   #26
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It's the Contoure combination microwave/convection/broiler installed by Sportsmobile - 1600W at full power (15A@120VAC, 75A@24VDC on my inverter).
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Old 07-10-2016, 08:22 PM   #27
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I guess that's something I haven't considered - if we'll want to run the convention oven and oven top at the same time. We thought about doing roof mounted AC, but I think we need the roof space for gear more than we need AC. And we can always idle the Van if we need to take the edge off.

With this setup, how much power from solar do you have? How long does it typically take to recharge your batteries if you're not on shore power?
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Old 07-10-2016, 08:34 PM   #28
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I don't have solar - running the numbers, the cost in fuel mileage is such that I am ahead just idling the engine if needed; moreover solar would mean my rig wouldn't fit in the garage. From full discharge, I can get back to full charge in a day's driving - call it 8 hours. Off shore power, assuming I do nothing but charge, about 2 hours.
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Old 07-10-2016, 09:21 PM   #29
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LOL - that's the best kind of science. What made you go this route rather than the typical LiPo setup?
Somewhat cost. I'm only in it for several hundred bucks but mostly for the learning adventure to see if I could. Anyone can just write a check to Space X and buy a rocket but where's the fun in that. Also I'm just looking to have a place to dump load power at times of abundant solar, driving, etc. I only have 200 Ah of lead battery which means I really only have about 100 Ah of usable storage and the thought of adding another 130 lb battery under the van wasn't desirable. These four cells (in two bricks) have been testing out to be around 135 Ah of usable 12 volt lead acid equivalent including the efficiency loss in the controller. We'll see how it goes.

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Old 07-10-2016, 09:44 PM   #30
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[QUOTE=ShuttlePilot;178985]arctictraveller, move the regulator between the lead and the lithium in your mind. The alternator, solar, shore power all have the charge algorithm for the lead and the charge controller between the lead and the lithium has the lithium charge algorithm.

Ok, I got it, the charge controller must be able to increase the voltage independantly of the alternator voltage. In effect you have two regulators, one of which can adjust current and voltage with a variable input. Pretty fancy electronics.
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