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Old 01-07-2021, 08:05 PM   #11
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Have you tried to plug into shore power and set the inverter panel to charge?
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Old 01-07-2021, 09:46 PM   #12
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Common for the sensors to start beeping when low voltage is present.
For plugging into shore power, turn your breakers off, plug in and then flip your breakers on, you should see your voltage go up, though I suspect your house battery is dead and won’t hold a charge, they are good for about 5 years. Most likely you’ve got a 4D AGM in there, replace with the same.
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Old 01-08-2021, 02:48 AM   #13
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My guess is your house battery is weak. If you don't have access to a Hydrometer (to measure specific gravity) or a Voltage Battery Load Tester, to test the health of your house battery, you can perform the following:

Before starting, check that your starter battery is healthy. The starter battery's voltage with the engine off should be at least 12.5 or higher. Next, charge the house battery with your inverter/charger. This will also give you opportunity to check that the charger side of the inverter/charger is working ok. It will take a few hours but fully charge the house battery or at least until the battery, with the charger turned off, reads 12.7 volts or higher. Next turn the van's refrigerator on and let it run for an hour or so. You're looking to supply a modest (4-5 amp) load to the house battery. After running the fridge for about an hour, the house battery voltage, with the fridge now off, should read 12.5v or higher. If the voltage is 12.3 or less your battery most likely is damaged and needs replacement.

But if the battery reads at least 12.5v, turn the fridge back on and let it run overnight. In the morning check the voltage again. A healthy battery should read 12.3v or higher after this test. If the reading is 12.0 to 12.2v your battery is close to the end of its life and its demise is on the horizon. With careful elec load management, you should still be able to squeeze out an overnight camp trip without hookups, but you'll need charge the batteries each day. If the battery voltage is less than 11.9 or less the battery is too far gone and needs replacement. Finally, recheck the starting battery voltage. It should read close to the voltage you read the day before. (If significantly lower it might suggest a failure of your battery isolator.)

However, if after letting the fridge run overnight, your house battery is showing 12.4v or higher, the problem is probably not your house battery and suggests a parasitic drain from some other component.

Let us know what you find.

-Ed
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Old 01-08-2021, 11:02 PM   #14
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Berta, If you find yourself in the market for a new battery you may want to read through a couple Threads that will help educate you on options:
https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...ies-19629.html

https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...ent-24198.html

https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...ing-27211.html

https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...ons-25584.html
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Old 01-09-2021, 09:34 AM   #15
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My CO/Propane sensor beeped annoyingly shortly after the expiration date. I replaced it; all good. After you sort out your battery voltages replace that sensor....your life may depend on it. They are about $70.
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Old 01-09-2021, 11:17 PM   #16
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Thanks for your help and suggestions. I did this test with the fridge running. at 12 hours the battery was down to 10 v. So I probably need a new battery. I found in the maintenance records that both batteries were replaced 6 months ago. It seems like a 6-month-old battery should still be good. I'll check for a parasitic draw also.
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Old 01-10-2021, 09:19 AM   #17
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Berta, you don't need a manual for this but you might for other things.

First, your detector is SHOT! Pull it out of the wall and unplug it. It's doing you no good but driving you crazy beeping. It clearly says, and most of us here know, it should've been replaced 13 years ago. A replacement is as close as a Camping World or other RV dealer.

Second, if your house battery was down to 7.8 volts for any time at all then the battery is shot. Replace ASAP. Your house battery should never be below 12.0 volts, that is the bare minimum.

These two things are likely your only problem. It sounds like your solar is working and if you have 13 volts running or plugged in then your charging system is working.
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Old 01-14-2021, 01:21 PM   #18
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You really need to sort out the whole electrical charge/battery isolator system before putting in a new battery to get ruined. My 2006 had the isolator wired to always activate charge mode. That means the solenoid was activated all the time, was too hot to touch and ran the batteries down continually. After replacing the isolator and correcting its wiring I found another solenoid in series which prevented the house batteries from helping with starting when the engine batteries were low. The PO just left it plugged into shore power all the time which masked the problems, but I had to replace the house battery and the engine ones are pretty damaged though the PO had recently replaced them. There is also a switch on my radio to run when the engine is not running. If left in that mode it will drain the batteries, also. I suggest you get help to thoroughly understand your system before throwing money at parts. It should be good enough to test and get functioning with the right settings as is. New batteries may just mask the real problem(s) until they are also ruined.
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Old 01-14-2021, 01:40 PM   #19
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There are two starting batteries and a house battery. Confirm that the batteries replaced were not the starting batteries.
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Old 01-14-2021, 01:43 PM   #20
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Mine did the same thing. It was exactly 60 months old which was when the fine print said to replace it. The beeping was "quite" irrating while driving so I disconnected it until I could pick up a new one....
This was one of my "unknown noises" that wasnt fixed with loctite....
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